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Old 07-13-2013, 11:15 AM   #26
IA Performance
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For the jumper hose I would take a hose off of your car and walk it in. The hose size is the same as the existing EVAP solenoid hoses, one of which attaches to the intake manifold on the vertical nipple directly behind the alternator. Some effort will be needed here.

Stephen
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Old 12-26-2013, 07:40 AM   #27
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Edit: posted in wrong thread
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:14 AM   #28
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hi, i have a 02 wrx that i took off the intake manifold to do the infamaous fuel line leak. while i replaced the fuel lines i did the TGV deletes, as well the purge valve delete listed here. I had a check engine light for o2 sensor that i just replaced with a subaru one brand new. i cleared the code for that andh had a buddy delete the tgv codes as well. car drives fine and great at low rpm but as soon as you step into it the car spits and spudders in and out of power. could the purge be at fault? i was told to reinstall the vavle to see if it helps at all. it is almost sounds and feels like a misfire but not sure if it is... like i said car runs awesome but after 4-4500 rpm it starts to go in and out of power. any ideas?
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Old 01-13-2014, 01:19 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpOoLiNwHoRe View Post
hi, i have a 02 wrx that i took off the intake manifold to do the infamaous fuel line leak. while i replaced the fuel lines i did the TGV deletes, as well the purge valve delete listed here. I had a check engine light for o2 sensor that i just replaced with a subaru one brand new. i cleared the code for that andh had a buddy delete the tgv codes as well. car drives fine and great at low rpm but as soon as you step into it the car spits and spudders in and out of power. could the purge be at fault? i was told to reinstall the vavle to see if it helps at all. it is almost sounds and feels like a misfire but not sure if it is... like i said car runs awesome but after 4-4500 rpm it starts to go in and out of power. any ideas?
Sounds like you have good size vacuume leak/boost leak. You need to check over every hose that leads to the intake manifold and if possible do a boost leak test.
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:00 PM   #30
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I 2nd the boost leak idea. Perform a "boost leak test" and the problem should be easily found. Deleting the purge valve and associated hoses should not have an ill effect on how the car operates.

Stephen
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:01 PM   #31
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Re-installed purge tonight.... Didn't help. Guess I'll have to do a boost leak test Tomorrow.
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:06 PM   #32
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Stephen..... You said you recommend zip ties on every hose off the intake manifold? Could a leak around the rubber cap plug on intake inlet cause it? Also if a tgv was leaking wouldn't it be all the time not just high rim?
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Old 01-13-2014, 10:11 PM   #33
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A sizable leak at the rubber cap could change the way the car drives since it has a direct effect on the air fuel ratio. I'm pretty certain you have a leak in the intake manifold assembly, or its gaskets. The boost leak test will check all of these things.

Stephen
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Old 01-15-2014, 08:15 AM   #34
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Well you were right did a boost leak test last night and its leaking at 1-2 small places but the main place is at the drivers side tgv delete must be those dam orings that were so much fun to intall...... arent you supposed to use valsoline? i used a lil wd-40 guess that could have made them swell idk. passenger side is fine....
Thanks again stephen! and 2gnt2wrx!

will post back after i get the new orings today and install within the end of the week hopefully! purge delete going back on! thank god to much clutter haha


Gavin-
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Old 01-15-2014, 09:05 AM   #35
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I eliminated all that crap, cleared the codes and capped the holes and don't worry about it. I also live in FL were I don't need to worry about inspection though hahaha
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Old 02-20-2014, 06:06 AM   #36
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So on my bugeye wrx the hose coming off the nipple on the intake manifold broke cracked/broke from being hard and brittle which leads me to believe that the rest of the eval hoses are also in bad shape. My question is how difficult is it to change out the hoses with new ones? Do I have to remove the intake manifold? and also can I get generic hoses from auto zone or should I go with oem?
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Old 02-20-2014, 01:05 PM   #37
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kohlby777 - the work can be performed with basic tools. The hardest part will be removing the EVAP solenoid so that you can then cut the hoses off with a razor blade. I would not try to pull them off given the brittle nature (new solenoids are over $120). Aftermarket vacuum hose from Auto Zone will be fine.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:43 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
ThePunishedGT - (1) intake manifold nipple cap 1/16" ID (1) turbo inlet nipple cap 3/16" ID (1) jumper hose 1/8-3/16" ID (roughly 7-8" long (usually sold by the foot) Stephen
So if I wanted to keep the system set up exactly how it is now a couple of feet of each size listed above would do the trick?
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:45 PM   #39
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That will be more than enough. It's better to have too much, than too little.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:42 AM   #40
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Excellent just wanted to make sure I have the correct sizes to replace everything before I go digging. I'll try to make a tutorial out of this
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Old 02-24-2014, 03:38 AM   #41
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Bump for hose sizes that are confirmed to work; having trouble finding 3/16" ID
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:37 AM   #42
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Depending on local auto store supplies, you may need to look on the web. 3/16 can be purchased through Summit Racing for $4.25 (5 feet).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-230162/overview/
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Old 03-03-2014, 03:08 PM   #43
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Hi Stephen,

So, I did the JDM mod on my 02 WRX and loved the cleaner engine bay, however, I suspect my solenoid may be going bad because I'm having trouble with the car stalling when I clutch in at times.

My question is, could a bad purge control solenoid cause the engine to run rich, there by causing the car to stall? I have also noticed some grey smoke from the exhaust and worse fuel economy. Would it be a good idea to disconnect the line to the intake manifold (the A port) to check if it fixes the problem (meaning, would this do anything bad for the car?)

The car has new plugs, new coilpacks, new MAF, no vacuum leak as confirmed by a smoke test. Oil and coolant show no leaks and cooling system has been pressure tested. Car drives normally in closed and open loop, aside from the ocassional stalling when I clutch in.

Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2014, 11:29 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShinjiML View Post
My question is, could a bad purge control solenoid cause the engine to run rich, there by causing the car to stall? I have also noticed some grey smoke from the exhaust and worse fuel economy. Would it be a good idea to disconnect the line to the intake manifold (the A port) to check if it fixes the problem (meaning, would this do anything bad for the car?)
A bad purge solenoid will generally not affect the way the car runs, rather it will throw a check engine light. Assuming you have had this issue prior to doing the JDM hose conversion, then I'd wager something else is wrong. Maybe the MAF is not properly seated in the intake (o-ring completely inside the intake) or the o-ring could be damaged/torn. You could try plugging the hose that goes from the solenoid to the intake manifold as a means to rule out the rough idle/fuel smell.
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Old 03-04-2014, 10:33 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post

A bad purge solenoid will generally not affect the way the car runs, rather it will throw a check engine light. Assuming you have had this issue prior to doing the JDM hose conversion, then I'd wager something else is wrong. Maybe the MAF is not properly seated in the intake (o-ring completely inside the intake) or the o-ring could be damaged/torn. You could try plugging the hose that goes from the solenoid to the intake manifold as a means to rule out the rough idle/fuel smell.
Thanks for the suggestion, Stephen. I forgot to mention that the symptoms are worse after filling the tank (fuel smell and stalling), but seems to get better as I drive and use some fuel. However, I am able to fill up normally so the canister appears to be working.

Car idles fine and drives fine.

Last edited by ShinjiML; 03-04-2014 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:29 AM   #46
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Does anyone have any pics of the mod done? I'm having a hard time figuring out what hose goes where and if i can use the hose i already have. I got a new solenoid and tried putting it on yesterday per factory setting and i dont think i got it correct. In the process, I tore like an inch off the hose that is underneath the intake manifold. Where does that hose go? I can't see where it goes underneath.
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:10 AM   #47
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Here is a photo of the completed modification off of the car. It is rather simple since one of the hoses is the original factory hose, the one marked "Manifold Nipple..." The new hose you will create is the one marked "vent return under...". This "vent return under" hose connects to the hard metal line, found under the intake manifold. In the end, there are just 2 hoses used with this setup. The spare/unused nipples on the turbo inlet, as well as intake manifold, will need to be capped off.



I do not have up close photos, so this random Google search ej207 will have to suffice of an engine bay. If someone has up close photos of this mod then feel free to share them. This is one of the easier modifications someone can do.
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Old 04-17-2014, 11:22 AM   #48
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So you have to buy separate hose for the vent return or can you use some of the old stuff?
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Old 04-17-2014, 12:28 PM   #49
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buy new
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:36 PM   #50
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My car wouldn't start only after getting gas. It would stall and misfire. Turns out the damn hoses got swapped when the dealership did sime warranty/recall work on my 02 wrx. Swapped the hoses and car runs perfect again. I was getting P0457 and P0303 gas cap and #3 misfire. No longer a problem. If your car Is having trouble idling, Could be the Idle air control valve sticking.
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