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Old 06-06-2013, 07:41 PM   #1
IamGipper
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Join Date: May 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Burnsville, MN
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza WRX
SRP Stage 2

Default 02 wrx won't start after filling up

I've done quite a bit of research into it and have replaced the charcoal canister and the evap purge valve, but nothing seems to help. No matter the amount of fuel I put in it it still takes a few seconds to start with my foot depressing the accelerator all the way. After it starts I have to keep the rpm's up (usually over 1000) to keep the engine from misfiring and dying. The CEL is on as well. I had codes pulled today by my local tuning shop (I was supposed to have the car dyno tuned to support the mods done to it) and here is what came up:

p0171 bank #1 too lean
p1443 evap control solenoid malfunction
Misfire codes on all 4 cylinders because of hard start ups after filling up

From what I have read, replacing the 2 parts I have already replaced should clear this sort of thing up, but it hasn't, and I don't feel like dropping more money to replace sensors that don't help alleviate the problem. I am in dire need of any advice. Thanks.

F.Y.I.: mods done to it are aftermarket headers, catless up-pipe, 3 inch turbo back.
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:26 PM   #2
IamGipper
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SRP Stage 2

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Nothing? You guys are a real help...
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:51 PM   #3
WhatsThatNoize
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WRB

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Sorry, I just logged on. Long day with my own car troubles.

I'm not sure I would have started where you did. In any case, here are some easy things you can do or have a shop do for you:

- Look for vacuum/boost leaks
- Look for exhaust leaks
- Check to make sure your fuel pump relay isn't on its way out (Does it prime your system when you turn your key to "On"?
- Check to make sure your Fuel Pump Control Unit is working. Mine crapped out on me after 165K miles.
- Coil Packs? How old are they? Are they in correctly? (double check this. I just found out I've been running on two cylinders for three weeks)

I find it weird that you would have so much trouble due to an evap purge valve. I had mine disconnected and my car ran fine for weeks. There's a slight possibility it could be your idle air control valve. I've heard they can get pretty gummy and clogged. Easy to clean I just did mine.

Take my advice with a grain of salt. I'm no professional... I just got done with a MAJOR screw-up, but hopefully you can check these things easily. They shouldn't take up too much time and your shop should be able to help you.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:18 AM   #4
IamGipper
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SRP Stage 2

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatsThatNoize View Post
Sorry, I just logged on. Long day with my own car troubles.

I'm not sure I would have started where you did. In any case, here are some easy things you can do or have a shop do for you:

- Look for vacuum/boost leaks
- Look for exhaust leaks
- Check to make sure your fuel pump relay isn't on its way out (Does it prime your system when you turn your key to "On"?
- Check to make sure your Fuel Pump Control Unit is working. Mine crapped out on me after 165K miles.
- Coil Packs? How old are they? Are they in correctly? (double check this. I just found out I've been running on two cylinders for three weeks)

I find it weird that you would have so much trouble due to an evap purge valve. I had mine disconnected and my car ran fine for weeks. There's a slight possibility it could be your idle air control valve. I've heard they can get pretty gummy and clogged. Easy to clean I just did mine.

Take my advice with a grain of salt. I'm no professional... I just got done with a MAJOR screw-up, but hopefully you can check these things easily. They shouldn't take up too much time and your shop should be able to help you.
Thanks mate. I had the shop pressurize the induction system. As far as they know there were no boost leaks. It has a tiny exhaust leak on the header and 2 good leaks at each end of the mid pipe, I have a hard time believing exhaust leaks would contribute to something like this though. The fuel system does prime itself. The misfiring clears up after a few seconds, but the initial misfiring causes the car to send itself into safe mode and cut the boost back to 7 psi. I was hoping a dyno tune would clear this up, but the shop said they won't touch my car until I fix these problems. Otherwise the car runs great. I've been using it as my DD for 4 years now and never knew there was a problem with it until they pulled the codes. I always thought the CEL was from the O2 sensor. I have no idea what to do. I am lost and at my wits end with this junker.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:59 AM   #5
IamGipper
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SRP Stage 2

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I have been researching almost every thing that comes up in a Google search on this topic for about 4 hours now. Everything I read points to the evap purge solenoid, even on different cars with completely different engines. All say they have the same symptoms (have to mash the pedal to the floor to get it to start, then idles rough upon start up, and then clears up after holding the rpm's up for a while). After I installed the purge solenoid I reset the ecu to clear the codes. I went to start the car and the CEL was still on even after resetting it. Thinking nothing of it because I was thoroughly pissed, I drove to refuel my car. It did nothing any differently, still the same piece of junk car. I got back home, popped the hood, and noticed the guy who had worked on my car earlier had not plugged the MAF sensor back in (the reason the CEL was still on after I reset the ecu). Could the code have not cleared when I reset the ecu, and made a good purge solenoid function improperly? Someone who knows what they're doing needs to help me. I am starting to lose hope that this car will be fixed.
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Old 06-07-2013, 02:06 AM   #6
BugeyedBandit
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Silver

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I had this exact same issue with my WRX when I first bought it. My issue turned out to be that the previous owner hooked the evap line from the gas tank directly to a port on the intake manifold. Since the motor was sucking air from the tank, the car threw the same P0171 code yours did, as well as a code for a large evap system leak.

I'd say you should check to make sure your evap lines are correctly routed, but since you've owned the car for 4 years, it's unlikely that the lines have been incorrectly routed without you knowing. The P1443 code combined with the car being difficult to start after filling up seems to point to your purge solenoid being stuck open somehow. Was this the solenoid you replaced? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...923&cc=1378773

If not, that's likely the culprit

Edit: An easy way to see if the solenoid is bad would be to disconnect the line that goes from the solenoid to the intake manifold and cap that now open port. Then try putting some gas in the tank and see if it's still hard to start.
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:33 AM   #7
IamGipper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BugeyedBandit View Post
I had this exact same issue with my WRX when I first bought it. My issue turned out to be that the previous owner hooked the evap line from the gas tank directly to a port on the intake manifold. Since the motor was sucking air from the tank, the car threw the same P0171 code yours did, as well as a code for a large evap system leak.

I'd say you should check to make sure your evap lines are correctly routed, but since you've owned the car for 4 years, it's unlikely that the lines have been incorrectly routed without you knowing. The P1443 code combined with the car being difficult to start after filling up seems to point to your purge solenoid being stuck open somehow. Was this the solenoid you replaced? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...923&cc=1378773

If not, that's likely the culprit

Edit: An easy way to see if the solenoid is bad would be to disconnect the line that goes from the solenoid to the intake manifold and cap that now open port. Then try putting some gas in the tank and see if it's still hard to start.
The solenoid I replaced was this one:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...707183522.jpg/
I will try troubleshooting the solenoid you mentioned, and report back with the verdict. I have a feeling the hoses are hooked up incorrectly, as I had to pull the intake manifold a while back when one of the bearings in the idlers went out and I thought I had bent a valve.

Last edited by IamGipper; 06-07-2013 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 06-07-2013, 03:20 PM   #8
IamGipper
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SRP Stage 2

Default

I have now rerouted the tubing to what is correct after finding a few pics on the subject. I haven't been able to fill it up since I filled it up yesterday after replacing the charcoal can and the purge valve next to the charcoal can. I have driven it, the idle seems smoother and shut down also seems smoother. The car is still stuck in mechanical boost at 7 psi. I have turned my attention to the boost control solenoid. I first noticed the plumbing for the bcs was incorrect as well. Switched the plumbing, drove the car, boost is now down to 5.5 to 6 psi. WTF... I am lost. I took the bcs out, tested it by touching the contacts with a battery charger. The bcs clicks open and closed, but when hooked up to the car it does not start functioning until the engine is revved past 3,000 rpm's and all it does is flutter. I am getting 12v at the connector that plugs into the bcs. Anyone wanna chime in and help me out? I am seriously lost. Considering selling the car and buying something else...
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:23 PM   #9
WhatsThatNoize
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Location: Bozeman/Seattle
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WRB

Default

Before you start blaming components, make ABSOLUTELY 100% sure that everything is hooked up correctly. You may have damaged the bcs if you hooked it up incorrectly, or if you replaced the lines and didn't get a new restrictor pill (or didn't use the old one). Did you replace any of the lines that affect the bcs?

In defense of Subaru, don't instantly assume it's the car's fault. Assume you made a mistake first. It is generally easier and less expensive to fix that.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:51 PM   #10
IamGipper
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2002 Impreza WRX
SRP Stage 2

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatsThatNoize View Post
Before you start blaming components, make ABSOLUTELY 100% sure that everything is hooked up correctly. You may have damaged the bcs if you hooked it up incorrectly, or if you replaced the lines and didn't get a new restrictor pill (or didn't use the old one). Did you replace any of the lines that affect the bcs?

In defense of Subaru, don't instantly assume it's the car's fault. Assume you made a mistake first. It is generally easier and less expensive to fix that.
I have not replaced anything. All tubing is hooked up correctly to this point. BCS tubing is correct, Purge valve tubing is now correct. I have driven the car for sometime today (30 miles or so) and the CEL shut off halfway through the drive and has not come back on. From what I hear it is a common problem to mess up the plumbing for the BCS and it does not affect its function if hooked up correctly again.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:04 PM   #11
IamGipper
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2002 Impreza WRX
SRP Stage 2

Default

If it is a concern I do also have exhaust mods. Headers, catless up pipe, and 3 inch tbe. My friend told me this is what is contributing to the loss of boost and that I need a tune, but the shop said they wouldn't touch it. If the BCS tubing looks anything like this:
http://forums.trinituner.com/upload/...ulletinrk2.jpg
I am certain I have hooked it up correctly.
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:19 PM   #12
IamGipper
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Member#: 318749
Join Date: May 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Burnsville, MN
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza WRX
SRP Stage 2

Default

So I have found the problem of why my WRX has only been putting out 7 psi for the 4 years I've had it. The restrictor pill was in the wrong spot... It was incorrectly placed after the T in the hose leading to the bcs. It is now correctly placed after the T in the tube that leads to the compressor housing. With the mods that are done to it it spikes at 15 lbs and the goes down to 10 psi and fluctuates between 15 and 10. It obviously needs a tune now. Thanks for the help though. To say the least, I am very pleased with my car now
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:15 AM   #13
WhatsThatNoize
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2002 WRX
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by IamGipper View Post
So I have found the problem of why my WRX has only been putting out 7 psi for the 4 years I've had it. The restrictor pill was in the wrong spot... It was incorrectly placed after the T in the hose leading to the bcs. It is now correctly placed after the T in the tube that leads to the compressor housing. With the mods that are done to it it spikes at 15 lbs and the goes down to 10 psi and fluctuates between 15 and 10. It obviously needs a tune now. Thanks for the help though. To say the least, I am very pleased with my car now
Can I just say...

CALLED IT!

Glad you got it fixed. It's always something silly that we overlook
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Old 08-23-2013, 04:47 PM   #14
Got Groceries?
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Black

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Did replacing the charcoal canister and purge valve near it solve the refueling issue?
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