**This was all done on a steering rack from a 2001 Impreza. Your rack, clamps, crossmember, and hardlines may or may not be different....but it should all be very similar.
I've had a few people ask me about this, and figured others might find it useful if I made a thread to contain all the info. Most of the info is from a DIY p/s delete thread on RS25 and a member on here.
Here's a link to the RS25 thread. Again, most of the info came from the guys over there, and I never would have considered doing it without their help : http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t751...ng-delete.html
No power steering is great. The feedback in turns and knowing exactly what the tires are doing is awesome. If you do the delete right, daily driving is no problem. Nice weight reduction too.
This is basically just converting the rack from hydraulic to manual. There's a few ways to go about this:
1. Delete the pump, reservoir, hard lines and p/s fluid.....the full delete.
**Requires removing the steering rack.
2. Bypass the pump with the smaller belt to get a feel for what it's like. You keep everything but shouldn't be a permanent option.
**Doesn't require removing the steering rack.
3. Pull the pump and loop the lines keeping the fluid and hard lines.
**Doesn't require removing the steering rack.
4. Remove the pump, reservoir, hardlines, and fluid......same as the full delete....but you also disassemble the rack itself. You will remove the inner diaphragms, and weld the quill to remove any slack in the system.....finish off by welding closed the ports on the outside.
This is the REAL way to finalize the delete. Definitely not necessary, but this will make things as good as they can get. 69Cadillac posted it a few posts down, and I think he also mentions it in his own build thread.
1. The right way, but most involved. It also will not allow you to switch back to power steering....unless you buy a new rack, or somehow clean the grease out.
Easiest to turn the wheel. Makes daily driving possible.
2. The easiest and just requires a smaller belt from the crank to alternator. This will give a similar feeling to the full delete but will be harder to turn the wheel.
I suggest trying that first, to get a feel for it. If it seems tolerable, just know it will be EASIER with the full delete. You will need the belt anyway if you continue on.
3. If you are concerned about your rack or don't want to fully committ....you can just pull the power steering pump and/or reservoir, and loop the hard lines wherever easiest for you. I wouldn't do it this way, but it's an option.
Just know, this will be harder to turn the wheel than the full delete....but easier than just the smaller belt. So it's in the middle.
Reason being, you're working against all the fluid still in the rack, but not the pump.
Here's a quick summary of what to do:
-Get a smaller crank to alternator belt.
For 97-01 Impreza's and 02-05 wrx the max belt length you can use is 28". I can't confirm exact numbers for earlier or later years but it's all very similiar.
I can personally confirm the belts listed below WILL work on:
--> 98-01 Impreza, ej22 and ej25
--> 02-05 wrx, ej205
--> 05-06 Legacy GT, ej255
They will most likely fit any EJ engine. As long as the alternator brackets are close to the engines listed above, it will work.
--I used a 27" length belt from Advance:
--Another member used a 27.55" belt from Advance:
Part# 275K4 ---> (from '82 ford escort)
--Also another belt a member mentioned:
Duralast # 268K3
I couldn't find a 5-rib belt anywhere, but 3 or 4 rib will work just fine. Just go to an advance or something, and ask for belts in a 27" length, and see what options they have.
-Get the pump, reservoir, and steering rack out however you have to. If your car is like mine, it involves breaking bolts and swearing. I'm not sure of the differences between years and models for this stuff so I left it out.
-Then look at your rack. It should have 4 fittings coming off for the hardlines. Two on the metal "body" of the rack, and two by the pinion gear. You will see exactly where when you pull the rack.
Again, you have options:
1. Cut all 4 hard lines off and smash/bend/seal them closed to keep dirt out.
--> this WILL work fine, but will be harder to turn the wheel than the option below:
2. Loop the two lines on the "body" and close off the two by the gear.
-I looped the two on the body, and made "plugs" or for the other two out of the old fittings.
There's lots of ways to plug and loop the lines....it's not a hydraulic system anymore so the pressure is much less.....therefore the connections don't have to be as tight/perfect.
-Then pull out the pinion gear. Clean off the fluid and factory grease....also clean out the gear housing best you can:
-Stuff it with the new grease and reinstall the pinion gear. Any wheel bearing grease will do. I wanted to try something different this time and decided on Lucas oil red-n-tacky.
Give it a few spins by hand to see how it feels and you are good to go. You can re-pull the gear and give another glob of grease if you want. The grease should work its way through the whole rack.
-After that you are done. Enjoy direct steering and no power steering leaks ever again....also about 15-20 lbs off the front end.
Complete steering rack assembly:
This will need some editing, let me know of mistakes and things I should add.