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Old 01-06-2017, 12:57 PM   #1
deadstockpomp
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Default Getting ready for track days now

I plan on taking my car to some road courses this upcoming season. Now I definetely did not neglect the suspension and wheel catogory, front and rear swaybars with endlinks, ohlins suspension, proper wheel alignment (which I will get redone after winter) square wheel setup although I could use a dedicated summer sport tire, Have pilot as3 on now. Hawk hp plus pads only, the rest is still stock.plan on bleeding the system and getting rotors soon. The car is your basic stage 2 with a good pro tune and runs well but now I have been doing some research about people having coolant issues and all sorts of problems. What can I do to make sure I have the proper setup and can last a track day without catastrophic problems like over heating, brake fade etc. Looking for people with track day experience to answer here.
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Old 01-06-2017, 01:10 PM   #2
jvangelder
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Just be sure you have good fluid in the car. Once I started to use RBF600 I stopped loosing the peddle over 2 day track weekends.

Also depending on the track and your pace, the HP+ pads will fade and wear quickly. I use hawk dtc60's / 70's and get decent life and no fade. If your worried about cost alot of people sell of spares during the winter, may be able to pick up a set for cheap. I bought 3 sets of used dtc60's for oem brembo's for 175 last winter, the deals are out there
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Old 01-06-2017, 01:51 PM   #3
kenshinxl
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Don't let the fuel tank drop past half full. There can be fuel starvation issues at the track.
Do an oil change when you bleed your brakes. Use good fluids.
If you're getting new rotors soon get slotted or blanks. Although slotted will eat your pads faster.
Don't check your wheel torques when the wheels are hot. You can break wheel studs like this.
Get a good AOS (Crawford/IAG) if you don't already have one.
You should probably get summers for the track. I've seen a set of all seasons bubble up after their last session of the day.
Bring an extra bottle of oil and brake fluid with you with your basic tools and essentials.
Check your front brake pad thickness and bring an extra pair if needed.

Last edited by kenshinxl; 01-06-2017 at 01:59 PM.
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Old 01-06-2017, 01:57 PM   #4
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Keep an eye on your coolant temps. On one of the threads here I read that a few people had their STi get hot with the OEM radiator during track days.
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Old 01-06-2017, 02:09 PM   #5
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Make sure NOT to the run the car in S or S#. Run the track in I mode. You can alternate between i and S from time to time, but don't run it in S all the time.

This way you car will stay cool. I had heat issues running in S# the first time I tracked my car with no oil cooler etc.

Since you have a pro-tune go see / ask, what are the boost levels. You dont want too much boost at the track. Most tuner tune for max power / drag racings from what I have seen unless otherwise told.
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Old 01-06-2017, 03:40 PM   #6
deadstockpomp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
Make sure NOT to the run the car in S or S#. Run the track in I mode. You can alternate between i and S from time to time, but don't run it in S all the time.

This way you car will stay cool. I had heat issues running in S# the first time I tracked my car with no oil cooler etc.

Since you have a pro-tune go see / ask, what are the boost levels. You dont want too much boost at the track. Most tuner tune for max power / drag racings from what I have seen unless otherwise told.
Won't this completely defeat the purpose of why I bought the car in the first place? Won't engine performance be very weak on that setting. I would imagine it feeling sluggish too
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Old 01-06-2017, 06:56 PM   #7
jamal
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That's kind of the issue with taking a stock car to the race track. The new C7 Z06 for example can't do more than like 10-15min if it's moderately warm out without overheating. But you can accelerate up onramps hard all you want!

A higher amount of water in the cooling system will help; water is better at carrying and transferring heat than anti-freeze. Like if you drained the radiator most of the way and filled it with distilled water and water wetter that would be good.

Your HP+ pads are likely to get overheated and fade too. They are not really cut out for actual race track use.

I wouldn't worry too much about being i S/S# as long as you are watching oil and coolant temp closely.
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Old 01-06-2017, 08:09 PM   #8
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Well let me say a few things:

HPS+ I have not had any problems. I have to track days with my fronts and 1 w the rears.
you mileage may vary.

If you plan on going and running the car in #s you are going to get about 10 mins out of the car before you start to get into the 235F water temp - which is too hot.

I run my car with an upgraded radiator and front mounted oil cooler. My car is also a Stage 2 car with a DP. I run it in Sport to get some extra "fun" and switch into S# here and there down the straight but I do see the temp start to rise.

Do a search and you will find info on temp ranges etc.
Hook up you CoBB in a visible place and watch you water temp, dont go by needle in the dash. Its way to slow in updating. I would recommend you also get some sort of oil temp gauge. I cant stress how important it is to watch your car vitals at the track, and find a way to log your run (CoBB?) should something go wonky.
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:32 AM   #9
deadstockpomp
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Well I decided to order an aftermarket cooling system to avoid this issue before it happens or at least keep it under control

Parts ordered
-Koyo radiator
-2 1.3 bar radiator caps
-Oem coolant. I plan on running a 50/50 with distilled water
-Redline water wetter to throw in

I also ordered some ate type200 brake fluid for when I bleed the system, the fluid had good reviews so I went ahead and grabbed 2 cans of that while I was ordering.
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Old 01-07-2017, 05:27 PM   #10
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You do not want to put 1.3 bar caps on both They need to be staggered in order for the cooling system to work correctly. I use a 1.6 on my radiator + 1.3 on the upper tank. Coolant plan sounds good.

I prefer motul 600 brake fluid. I ran hp+ for a while aND they worked ok. My current pads are carbotech xp12 in front and xp10 in the rear. I love these pads on track.

I am stg 2 with a catless downpipe. I usually run about 18.5 lbs of boost in S# on a protune. I have no cooling issues currently. However I have a ron davis radiator and mishimoto oil cooler. Durring My November and December track events temps 60-75 F, my coolant temp never went >224 F, and oil never past 245 F. This is flat out 16 to 20 minutes at a time.

What you really need to do is just get on track. The car will tell you what you need to upgrade next. Your needs could very based on your driving style. Depending on how you drive, your stock cooling system could be adequate (most likely not on 2015+). You should have some way to monitor temps, not just the dummy gauge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadstockpomp View Post
Well I decided to order an aftermarket cooling system to avoid this issue before it happens or at least keep it under control

Parts ordered
-Koyo radiator
-2 1.3 bar radiator caps
-Oem coolant. I plan on running a 50/50 with distilled water
-Redline water wetter to throw in

I also ordered some ate type200 brake fluid for when I bleed the system, the fluid had good reviews so I went ahead and grabbed 2 cans of that while I was ordering.
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Old 01-07-2017, 06:27 PM   #11
Profoxcg
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Quote:
What you really need to do is just get on track. The car will tell you what you need to upgrade next. Your needs could very based on your driving style. Depending on how you drive, your stock cooling system could be adequate (most likely not on 2015+). You should have some way to monitor temps, not just the dummy gauge.
I totally agree.
First time out I didn't have an oil cooler, temps where 255F. (too hot for my liking). Also pay attention where these oil temps are being taken. The oil pan will always show 20 - 30F less than the filter location. I make a youtube last week talking about this.

My suggestion would be, upgrade your radiator for now, make sure - again, make sure it burped properly or you will overheat, and track the car. The stock brembo pads are good. Do change your brake fluid. I run Motul 600 and stainless steel brake lines (brand up to you).

I echo what was said before, get real gauge for your engine temps. Something with a programmable warning would be ideal.
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:02 PM   #12
deadstockpomp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phxsubaru View Post
You do not want to put 1.3 bar caps on both They need to be staggered in order for the cooling system to work correctly. I use a 1.6 on my radiator + 1.3 on the upper tank. Coolant plan sounds good.

I prefer motul 600 brake fluid. I ran hp+ for a while aND they worked ok. My current pads are carbotech xp12 in front and xp10 in the rear. I love these pads on track.

I am stg 2 with a catless downpipe. I usually run about 18.5 lbs of boost in S# on a protune. I have no cooling issues currently. However I have a ron davis radiator and mishimoto oil cooler. Durring My November and December track events temps 60-75 F, my coolant temp never went >224 F, and oil never past 245 F. This is flat out 16 to 20 minutes at a time.

What you really need to do is just get on track. The car will tell you what you need to upgrade next. Your needs could very based on your driving style. Depending on how you drive, your stock cooling system could be adequate (most likely not on 2015+). You should have some way to monitor temps, not just the dummy gauge.
So should I just leave the stock cap on the tank and put the 1.3 cap on the radiator?
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:09 PM   #13
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my 04 sti makes over 450hp on it's street tune

my lower boost trackday tune is about 375

if you put summer tires on the hps pads will most likely go up in smoke

try to stay away from "a/x specials" tire types and go with a proven trackday tire



1st sentence - there's more in it but just using it as a measurement to compare , can't really drive it hard for extended periods on the street , so no meltdown

2nd - don't string it out on crack at the track as the track is hard on it and I don't want it's heart to explode , or meltdown

3rd - with higher grip comes higher brake temps and hps or hp+ are not track pads by any means imho , meltdown

4th - the "specials" tend to get greasy and loose grip , meltdown

Last edited by motorbykemike; 01-15-2017 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorbykemike View Post
my 04 sti makes over 450hp on it's street tune

my lower boost trackday tune is about 375

if you put summer tires on the hps pads will most likely go up in smoke

try to stay away from "a/x specials" tire types and go with a proven trackday tire
please explain..
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:35 PM   #15
phxsubaru
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Nothing wrong with that as long as you have the staggered pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deadstockpomp View Post
So should I just leave the stock cap on the tank and put the 1.3 cap on the radiator?
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Old 01-08-2017, 03:27 PM   #16
deadstockpomp
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Quick question I will be mixing half Subaru super coolant and half distilled water. But The coolant says 50/50 half coolant half antifreeze. There is no water in this correct?? Don't want to run to much water in the system on accident.
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Old 01-08-2017, 04:33 PM   #17
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Coolant and anti-freeze are used interchangeably, does not mean water. What does it say exactly? I think it is pre-mixed.

But more water is a good thing for the cooling capacity, it just raises the freezing point. 50/50 freezes at like -37f where 75% water will freeze at around 10f.

And I don't think having staggered caps is required. The upper tank and radiator are connected to each other by a hose so it is not like there can be a pressure difference between the two.
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:13 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamal View Post

And I don't think having staggered caps is required. The upper tank and radiator are connected to each other by a hose so it is not like there can be a pressure difference between the two.
Stock the caps are rated at 1.3 bar radiator and 1.1 bar on the upper tank. The upper cap is designed with a reverse flow so it can refill the system upon cooling however the radiator cap is a one way design. my understanding is that this was so the overflow would return to the highpoint of the system upon cooling. The higher pressure rad cap never really comes into play unless the upper cap fails to open. I could be wrong but that was what my research had turned up on the subject?
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:00 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
please explain..

post 13 edited
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:30 PM   #20
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thanks for elaborating, we all appreciate it.
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Old 01-09-2017, 10:08 PM   #21
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The comment about autox tires being bad is mostly true. Tires operate in a given heat range. For true autox tires that heat range is below what you'll see on track. After you pass that heat range they'll fall off and feel "greasy".

Still, for someone just starting out pretty much any higher performance summer tire is a good place to be. You'll wear out a set of tires (if you're serious) long before you come close to their limits.

In general, watch your temps, have a good pair of track oriented brake pads with at least fresh fluid in your brake system. Make sure your coolant is topped off, and run a little over full on the oil and check it every session. A stage 2 car is still likely going to be fine for a beginner as you won't be getting to the cars potential right away. Later on when you've got some time invested and skill built up I would suggest looking at more reliability mods. But right now with just a desire to do something I would not suggest you spend large amounts of money on something you may not continue to do.
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Old 01-14-2017, 08:45 AM   #22
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Make sure you have fresh fluids before the track day and are keeping an eye on on your temperatures. I've got brembos on my wrx and am running carbotech xp10 front and rear with motul rbf600. For tires I'm running Direzza zii star specs and I'm not considering switching to anything as I love everything about them( cheap, no greasy feeling unless excessive sliding, good warning before they let go)

I haven't had any coolant issues temps with my ots stage 2 map at 19 psi. I would recommend running a quality aos like the iag or Crawford as well as keeping knock under control.
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Old 01-14-2017, 10:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline23 View Post
For tires I'm running Direzza zii star specs and I'm not considering switching to anything as I love everything about them( cheap, no greasy feeling unless excessive sliding, good warning before they let go)
Me as well. This is the third car I have ran star specs on. I have ran some version of them since 2009/2010.

I ran kumho v710 slicks at one point. They were nice but a pain to have to swap tires at the track. I still prefer the star specs. Wet or dry its a great tire you can drive to the track on and it provides very good grip.
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Old 01-15-2017, 11:43 AM   #24
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Are you guys talking about DUNLOP DIREZZA ZII STAR SPEC ?
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Old 01-15-2017, 07:56 PM   #25
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yes

one of the few specials that fares well at a trackday
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