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Old 01-19-2017, 03:31 PM   #1
KillerBMotorsport
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Default Killer B Motorsport FA20 WRX Oil Pickup

Like many of our other products, this is a solution to a problem. I came across this many months ago, during turbo kit testing on our shop 2015 WRX. The engine had blown, but the violence was significantly more than just the bent rod we had hoped for. As you can see, debris went into the engine and made its way into the oil pump. Im sure you can imagine the consequences of an instant oil pressure loss. A much more expensive repair!

Why had the oil pump filled with debris? The OEM pickup screen had failed. The OEM part had not prevented metal bits and chunks from entering the engine. At the time of failure, I had assumed this was just the kind of luck I had, but after hearing that other shops had similar experiences, we dug deeper.

The OEM pickup screen is crimped in a retainer and that assembly is spot welded into the pickup can. There are a couple of flaws with this process. One is that the screen is creased where the retaining ring is crimped over it. The other is the spot weld process embrittles the screen. We pushed on the screen of new OEM pickups, and several popped wire strands, without a lot of effort.

Being known for making the best Subaru Performance Oiling Products money can buy, addressing this was right up our alley. Of course, our own spin of improvements, besides the obvious had to be made to assure set it and forget reliability that comes with our products. A means for improving performance was taken advantage of during the design process as well.

The obvious big change is the tube has no bend. No bend means no restriction, and even better coming from the OEM tube because it uses a more restrictive pinch bend. The ID of the tube has been increased, and so has the thickness. The angle of the tube points it directly at the inlet into the block. Like our EJ engine Ultimate Oil Pickup this one too uses a screen to match the OEM spec opening size of the mesh. Although, we use a higher strength screen material. The screen area has been increased over 31% which reduces the restriction and stress on the screen. Our screen is lightly pressed and welded into place assuring the wire does not gets stresses or heat damages. TIG welding throughout assures proper weld penetration and quality. The material is 4130 Alloy Steel to further provide an increase in strength over the brazed stamped steel OEM version. The units have been pressure tested to 150psi over the face of the screen without issue.
If anyone has questions or would like to place an order, please feel free to contact us.

















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Old 01-19-2017, 04:28 PM   #2
idiosyncrisia
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Looks and sounds like a solid product for those that have the worry about a similar thing happening to them.

Thank you for continuously creating improvements for our cars.
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Old 01-19-2017, 04:38 PM   #3
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Is there any real reason behind the OEM bend? I can't imagine that subaru just randomly added on an extra operation/equipment floorspace just for an unnecessary bend.

Personally, I don't see why the bend is necessary either, but I was wondering if there was more to it.
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Old 01-19-2017, 05:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idiosyncrisia View Post
Looks and sounds like a solid product for those that have the worry about a similar thing happening to them.

Thank you for continuously creating improvements for our cars.
Thanks and no problem!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by anjuna View Post
Is there any real reason behind the OEM bend? I can't imagine that subaru just randomly added on an extra operation/equipment floorspace just for an unnecessary bend.

Personally, I don't see why the bend is necessary either, but I was wondering if there was more to it.
The only reason I can think of is that this part number is used on another, older, application. There is good clearance around the tube, so I can't see any reason the FA20WRX pickup can't be straight. The BRZ pickup is similar too, but I believe that pan is also different. Of course there could be an underlying reason for it during the factory assembly that we are just not privy to.
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Old 01-20-2017, 07:37 PM   #5
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Awesome looking forward to the progress and can't wait for the final product.
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Old 01-20-2017, 11:49 PM   #6
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Awesome solution to an non-existent problem......
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Old 01-21-2017, 04:23 PM   #7
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I am in the middle of a complete engine rebuild. What is the timeline to get one of these and pricing?

Andrew
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:32 PM   #8
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I also have an immediate need for one of these . . . oh, and can you send a dunce hat with it? Um, I . . . stripped my oil pan drain plug.

Here is the story of my stupidity if you are interested. I purchased a magnetic drain plug from drainplugmagnets.com. I had just changed the oil and I was too damn impatient to wait for the next change to put it on. So I quickly swapped the plug not letting much oil out. Didn't think it would be much different than letting a little oil out, which I've done a few times before on other cars. It seemed to go on and torque down fine. Fast forward today when I was changing my oil. It came off OK, but as I began to screw the plug back on I realized just how powerful that magnetic wasI had to be careful to square it on. It seemed to thread fine initially, but it never tightened down and just kept spinning. I'm sure I stripped it when I was trying to put it on initially with the oil flowing out as I didn't square it up good not knowing how much the magnet was affecting things. I'm not knocking the magnetic drain plug. It was plain user error.

On the bright-side, it will give me an excuse to do some upgrades . . . like this thing depending on release date.
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:59 AM   #9
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just ordered mine
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:00 PM   #10
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Looking forward to install videos down the road!
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Old 01-25-2017, 12:10 PM   #11
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Shipping out this week! Another minor detail is the OEM pickup tube is smaller than the oil pump inlet passage. Ours is slightly larger, further assuring our pickup provides the least amount of flow resistance to the suction side of the oil pump
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Old 01-25-2017, 05:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Awesome solution to an non-existent problem......
Disagree. It's just another part the OEM decided to cheapen out on instead of use proper engineering, and material. If Subaru was so "superior" in their engine designs you wouldn't have EJ's that blow ring lands or such weak rods in these FA's. They cheapen out on lost of things to save $, pad their profits, and they are only concerned with one thing, the original sale. Evidence: See the Oil burning class action lawsuit. Best bet for the health of your vehicle and longevity is to source stronger parts to cover your margins. "Just in case". I'd rather spend some dough on this part compared to C lights, LED interior lighting, drops, fender rolls, or any such other bs.
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:57 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pre View Post
Disagree. It's just another part the OEM decided to cheapen out on instead of use proper engineering, and material. If Subaru was so "superior" in their engine designs you wouldn't have EJ's that blow ring lands or such weak rods in these FA's. They cheapen out on lost of things to save $, pad their profits
ha, you should start a car company and 'pad' your profits too. Get a quick lesson in manufacturing.

Just because it's possible to make a 'better' pickup doesn't mean there's anything wrong with the OEM. They just create reasons why it's no good to sell these things. It's a pickup tube for gods sake, lets be rational.
Did you notice the 'problem' was discovered after blowing up an engine??
Whoa, does that mean the block is no good too because you can smash chunks out of it when you blow up a rod?
I guess so.
Or the valves are no good because if you float them and they get hit they can break?

Maybe next they'll design a superior dipstick.
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Old 01-26-2017, 10:23 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Maybe next they'll design a superior dipstick.
Hey man, I could really use a superior dipstick, my girl's equinox has one that is like a braided steel cable with with a knurled hunk of steel at the end for the readings. It is soooo much easier to read than the cheapy stamped turds Subaru sticks us with. I'd actually pay 50$ for one of those...
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:05 AM   #15
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unrelated.

I just changed my transmission cooler line o-rings on my BMW.

Want to know how much manufacturers skimp? They decided to use a NBR o-ring (probably less than 10c on their end) instead of an FKM o-ring (probably 50c on their end) just to save a little bit. What does that mean? The internet is full of leaking 6L45 transmissions from the cooler lines.

What does this mean from NASIOC? You can assume that subaru (economy car manufacturer) decided to skimp everywhere they possibly could.
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:53 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uofime View Post
Hey man, I could really use a superior dipstick, my girl's equinox has one that is like a braided steel cable with with a knurled hunk of steel at the end for the readings. It is soooo much easier to read than the cheapy stamped turds Subaru sticks us with. I'd actually pay 50$ for one of those...
that's funny because I have a 04 Xterra (piece of f-ing crap btw) with that style dipstick and I hate it. I wish it was the flat steel type.
Pushing the cable ones back in is always a pain IMO.
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Old 01-26-2017, 11:57 AM   #17
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What does this mean from NASIOC? You can assume that subaru (economy car manufacturer) decided to skimp everywhere they possibly could.
The sad reality, which is why most manufacturing has gone overseas, is that costs to run a business in this country go up every single year.
Where I work, between the health plan, workers comp insurance and social security/medicare payroll taxes we spend just shy of 20 grand PER employee annually.
40 years ago (adjusted for inflation) those number would have been 1/10th of that magnitude.

Not tough to do that math.
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Old 01-26-2017, 12:13 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by rtv900 View Post
that's funny because I have a 04 Xterra (piece of f-ing crap btw) with that style dipstick and I hate it. I wish it was the flat steel type.
Pushing the cable ones back in is always a pain IMO.
I guess if you have a convoluted path that could be an issue with that style.

Now that I'm thinking about it I bet I could lay the stamped dipstick on a table, but a file on top of the end and bash it with a hammer to get that knurling effect... or be less of a savage and press it in a vice
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Old 01-26-2017, 12:19 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by rtv900 View Post
The sad reality, which is why most manufacturing has gone overseas, is that costs to run a business in this country go up every single year.
Where I work, between the health plan, workers comp insurance and social security/medicare payroll taxes we spend just shy of 20 grand PER employee annually.
40 years ago (adjusted for inflation) those number would have been 1/10th of that magnitude.

Not tough to do that math.
Same here. I look back on what my employer pays as it's part of my medical and it's insane. Plus tax plus this plus that plus the HR person to do it plus the accountant to do it..... it's bigly.
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Old 01-26-2017, 01:34 PM   #20
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For people who are running high enough power where the probability of blowing the motor is increased, having a higher strength screen is desirable. Not sure why rtv is having trouble understanding that lmao
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Old 01-26-2017, 02:27 PM   #21
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For people who are running high enough power where the probability of blowing the motor is increased, having a higher strength screen is desirable. Not sure why rtv is having trouble understanding that lmao
I understand what you are saying, but it's like the tail wagging the dog.

Didn't you just say it^
The screen will hold up if you blow the motor?????
Really, that's great, only you blew the motor up so who really cares about a pickup.
That's like saying you need a blast resistant hood if you put a wet supercharger on a car in case it backfires and blows up, then at least you can re-use the hood.
Yeah I guess, or if that happens buy a new hood, then at least you only buy it if something actually fails.

I have a hard time believing a pickup is the root cause of any failures in reality despite the claims people that sell them try and dream up.
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Old 01-26-2017, 02:44 PM   #22
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if i were rebuilding my motor i'd probably put this in, not every day you have your engine in pieces, doesn't hurt to replace.
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Old 01-26-2017, 03:41 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rtv900 View Post
Just because it's possible to make a 'better' pickup doesn't mean there's anything wrong with the OEM.
This is funny, because we designed the EJ oil pickup because OEM ones fail. When I first designed that one, there were LOTS of internet naysayers like yourself. Oddly enough, its become very well documented since then. We even sell pickups to Subaru dealerships on cars still under warranty

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtv900 View Post
Did you notice the 'problem' was discovered after blowing up an engine??
How rhetorical of a question can this be? determining cause of failure is easy for those that have beet taught those skills. Predicting is impossible.

Of course it was noticed after the engine failed. The pictures pretty clearly show the pickup was so stuffed with crap that the screen let go and allow it to pass into the pump. How long those bits of piston skirt were in the sump and sucked against the pickup screen is anyone's guess. Of course when the screen let go and let chunks went into the pump, the pump failed and catastrophe ensued.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtv900 View Post
Whoa, does that mean the block is no good too because you can smash chunks out of it when you blow up a rod?
I guess so.
Or the valves are no good because if you float them and they get hit they can break?
The piston skirt let go. Metal into the oil and into the pickup. Screen fails, metal into the pump, pump fails. Engine stops! If the screen didn't fail it's probable that low oil pressure would have been observed. Was the engine going to blow anyway, of course! We were making ~150whp over stage II with our turbo kit and we expected a limited life from this engine. If the screen had not failed, would it have meant I didn't have to fork out +$450 to replace the pump. Probable.

Buy yourself a new OEM pickup and press the screen with your thump. The strands pop pretty easy, much easier than in the older EJ pickups. Add to that the amount of silicone the FA engines use (crap loads!) that shops are seeing in the pickup screens, and having some extra surface area for flow is certainly not a bad thing.

Of course there are performance advantages, but who cares about those. It's only the part responsible for supplying oil to the pump. Who would want any improvements there

If customers see no benefit to this product, no one buys it, it dies. If they do see it as a product that can provide a benefit in one form or another, it lives. That's a pretty simple formula.

Last edited by KillerBMotorsport; 01-26-2017 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 01-26-2017, 04:24 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post

The piston skirt let go. Metal into the oil and into the pickup. Screen fails, metal into the pump, pump fails.
I don't know what part of the pics I'm missing.
I see in the first pic huge chunks of what I could believe are skirt chunks.

And then in the pump I see nothing but the shattered pump lobe pieces.

The pic of the failed screen doesn't look anywhere close to big enough for those skirt chunks to have gotten through it, and they don't look like they were caught in a pump that would essentially try and crush one or more of them between lobes until it shattered.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding something about what you are saying happened
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Old 01-26-2017, 05:35 PM   #25
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Quote:
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I don't know what part of the pics I'm missing.
I see in the first pic huge chunks of what I could believe are skirt chunks.

And then in the pump I see nothing but the shattered pump lobe pieces.

The pic of the failed screen doesn't look anywhere close to big enough for those skirt chunks to have gotten through it, and they don't look like they were caught in a pump that would essentially try and crush one or more of them between lobes until it shattered.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding something about what you are saying happened
Those were the biggest chunks that were still in the pickup. They didn't make it through the hole. Many smaller pieces did obviously. The rotors have smaller pieces of mushed metal on them, but bigger pieces popped it apart.

They are crappy cell pics, but here are some close-ups where you can see stuff a bit better.



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