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Old 11-21-2018, 01:37 PM   #1
WRBWRX2018
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Default 04 WRX starting issues

i have a heavily modded 04 wrx, recently drove to the store and everything was running fine, no issues.

when i came out of the store the car wouldnt crank, no click, nothing.

didnt have a jump handy so i push started the car, it started but was running like ****, very lean at idle, bucking and stumbling. managed to baby it home.

shut it off, started testing things, bypassed the clutch switch, still no crank, pulled battery and had it tested and charged, still no crank, ran direct power from battery to starter main, and signal wire, starter clicked a couple times, but no start, at this point i figured the starter was toast, so i got a new one and installed it, still no crank, one loud click when i turn the key then nothing. i have tested the voltage at the battery and the starter, battery is at 12.96 volts, starter is seeing 12.96 volts, signal wire shows a constant 5 ish volts, then 12.6 on crank.

what am i missing, i even replaced the crank sensor..

thanks
thomas
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Old 11-21-2018, 02:00 PM   #2
Mulder
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If you're seeing full battery voltage when trying to crank, it's not drawing any current. Something in the starting circuit is open, you need to go through it with a meter checking either continuity or voltage to find the break. You've changed the starter (hopefully the new one is good) and bypassed the clutch switch (the right one, there are two?), look at the ignition switch and the starter kill relay if you have the factory alarm.
Crank sensor has nothing to do with this, you could remove the ECU and the engine would still crank.
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Old 11-21-2018, 02:13 PM   #3
WRBWRX2018
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do you mean if i have full voltage at the battery when im trying to crank? i didnt check the voltage at the battery while cranking, only the voltage at the starter. if the starter is seeing 12 + volts to each terminal, why wouldnt it crank? i ran leads direct from the battery and still nothing.
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Old 11-21-2018, 02:27 PM   #4
WRBWRX2018
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as far as the clutch switch goes, i thought the lower switch was the cruise control shut off switch?
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Old 11-21-2018, 02:36 PM   #5
Mulder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRBWRX2018 View Post
do you mean if i have full voltage at the battery when im trying to crank? i didnt check the voltage at the battery while cranking, only the voltage at the starter. if the starter is seeing 12 + volts to each terminal, why wouldnt it crank? i ran leads direct from the battery and still nothing.
If all was well the voltage should be the same everywhere. During cranking when the starter is operating you should see around 10V or so with a healthy battery.
The small terminal on the starter is the solenoid, that one should have voltage when you turn the key to the crank position. If it doesn't the starter won't engage. The starter grounds through the block and the main battery-to-engine ground cable so make sure that's good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WRBWRX2018 View Post
as far as the clutch switch goes, i thought the lower switch was the cruise control shut off switch?
Not sure off the top of my head which one it is. It should be closed (have continuity) when the clutch is fully depressed. Bypassing is done by connecting a jumper wire across the switch terminals, presumably you did that.
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Old 11-21-2018, 02:53 PM   #6
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so since i am seeing good power to the starter, and the solenoid receives power when trying to crank, can i assume the starter is trash? i have checked all the grounds i can find, i jumped the upper clutch switch and i am receiving power to the solenoid so im certain that the bypass is proper, and i assume that the ignition switch is fine since i am measuring power at the solenoid when trying to crank.
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Old 11-21-2018, 03:09 PM   #7
Mulder
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What is your ground/negative reference point when measuring that voltage? Should be the block right at the starter. You could have a bad engine ground cable and still see the voltage if you're using the battery or frame as the negative reference.
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Old 11-26-2018, 07:19 PM   #8
WRBWRX2018
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so i checked power again, using the block right by the starter, and the bellhousing, still have constant power at 12.8 volts
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Old 11-28-2018, 08:19 PM   #9
Mrbummy
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You getting ignition lights? checked the fuses? main fuse etc check all of em
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Old 12-05-2018, 08:23 PM   #10
WRBWRX2018
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i have checked all the fuses, all the relays, i have full power, 12.9 v at solenoid with key turned to start position, 12.8 volts at main power wire at starter, still no crank, bypassed oem power wires and ran power directly to starter and solenoid, still no crank just one loud click,
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Old 12-05-2018, 11:39 PM   #11
Charlie-III
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Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRBWRX2018 View Post
so since i am seeing good power to the starter, and the solenoid receives power when trying to crank, can i assume the starter is trash? i have checked all the grounds i can find, i jumped the upper clutch switch and i am receiving power to the solenoid so im certain that the bypass is proper, and i assume that the ignition switch is fine since i am measuring power at the solenoid when trying to crank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WRBWRX2018 View Post
i have checked all the fuses, all the relays, i have full power, 12.9 v at solenoid with key turned to start position, 12.8 volts at main power wire at starter, still no crank, bypassed oem power wires and ran power directly to starter and solenoid, still no crank just one loud click,
Sounds like a dead new starter.
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:02 PM   #12
WRBWRX2018
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this is the third one lol. cant possibly have gotten three **** remans in a row??
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:50 AM   #13
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRBWRX2018 View Post
this is the third one lol. cant possibly have gotten three **** remans in a row??
While unlikely, possible.

When you ran power wires to the starter, did you also run a ground?
Is the starter solidly bolted on? This is the ground side of the circuit.
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Old 12-07-2018, 01:30 PM   #14
bdubblu
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FWIW this doesn't sound like a starter/ battery issue to me either. It's got to be related to the electrical circuits as others have suggested already.

Could the immobilizer be the source of the problem? I've never experienced the car in immobilization, so I can't confirm whether that "click" is typical for that status.
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