2013 STI Dom 1.5 Flex Fuel

[Electrin]

Finally making a post about my car. Car has been tuned since 4/20/22

Car: 2013 STI Hatch
Dyno: Mainline AWD1200
Location: Infront Automotive, Auburn WA
Tuner: John
Ambient Temp: 50°
Weather: Cloudy
Elevation: 80'
Stock 2021 STi results on this dyno: 200 WHP 200 WTQ
Fuel: 92 Octane and e77
Peak HP (92): 320WHP at 5684 RPM
Peak TQ (92): 324WTQ at 4528 RPM
Peak HP (e77): 371WHP @ 5790 RPM
Peak TQ (e77): 401WTQ @ 4400 RPM
Target boost: 24 PSI
Gear used for tuning: 3rd
Engine management: COBB Accessport V3, Hybrid Speed Density

The non-embedded link shows the e77 touch up tune where I got 401WTQ

https://imgur.com/a/8J1MZ8G



Power
IAG Stage 2.5 Closed Deck
Blouch Dom 1.5xtr 2.4" inlet, 8cm^2 hotside
PTP lava blanket
VA STI TMIC
OEM BPV
Radium FPR
Cobb (ID) 1300x injectors
Aem 340
Cobb rails
Cobb FlexFuel kit
Radium Surge Tank
TGV deletes
Killer B inlet
COBB SF intake and airbox with factory snorkel
COBB Turbo Back
PLM EWG up pipe (Ceramic Coated)
TiaL 38mm EWG at 13.01 psi
Grimmspeed EBCS
Grimmspeed heat-shield
AEM intake air temp sensor
IAG AOS
Koyo radiator
GDT Cylinder 4 Cooling mod
Killer B Swain Tech coated Holy headers
Killer B pickup

Suspension
Tein Flex Z coilovers
Whiteline 22mm front and rear swaybar kit w/ rear sway bar brace
Whiteline endlinks
Whiteline anti lift kit

Drivetrain
Fluidampr
Group N Pitch stop
Group N Transmission Mount
Group N Engine Mounts
TiC Tranny crossmember mounts
Kartboy short shifter and bushings
Mach V Wicked Awesome Wheels 18x9.5 Bronze
Continental DW06+ 265-35

Anything I didn't list is stock/OEM (or I forgot). There are a few cosmetic mods I didn't include. Originally, I planning on only adding bracing and a few more cosmetic mods after getting tuned but it looks like I'll be spending at least a little more on power mods very soon.

I picked up my STI Hatch in August 2021, my previous car was a Stg2+ 2002 WRX wagon. My original plan was to build up my bugeye with an STI trans and an ej257 but I a '13 hatch for sale locally that already had a IAG block in it so sold my wagon and picked up the hatch. My hatch was originally going to stay on pump gas but I got talked into going flex fuel and things spiraled out from there.

The car is amazing to drive, there is just so much more power everywhere, always a giant smile on my face whenever I drive it. For the most part, it's very well behaved on the street but the throttle in S# is a little touchy but that's an easy enough fix.

Now for some bad news. On 5/21/22, I was driving back from riding Tiger mountain and filling up on e85 when I started to struggle to get into boost. Boost didn't start to come on until around 4500 rpm and was peaking ~13 psi. I didn't think much of it at the time but when I was coasting down hwy 18, there was a metallic rattle/pinging sound (not knock) that went away after a few minutes, not sure if this is related to not being able to build boost but it most likely is. AFR and fuel trims are fine and I'm not seeing any misfires. Most likely something went on the turbo (which was brand new and had less than 1000 miles on it). I currently have Covid so haven't torn the car down yet but planning on checking my oil for metal and sending a sample off, taking the dp off to inspect the turbine, and then most likely taking the turbo off and inspecting it.

So this leaves me with a conundrum, if it is the turbo, do I get a exact replacement, do I get a dom 1.5 with the 3" inlet and a 10cm^2 hotside, or do I get a completely different turbo. I saw a post from an Australian tuner that had a new gen 2.5xtr that Blouch hasn't released yet, that could be fun. I was hoping I'd be done spending money on the STI so I could start saving for a new DH bike but oh well.

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[Dave D.]

You have nearly an identical setup to mine. Nearly, as I do have the 10cm Dom 1.5, plus built heads with Kelford 199-b cams. I have read that the 10cm makes a difference -- my buddy Kermit can chime in regarding the 10cm 20g-xtr he has on his 2-liter build. With the Killer B headers you should definitely go for 10cm. Here's my graph from the same shop:

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by Dave D.

You have nearly an identical setup to mine. Nearly, as I do have the 10cm Dom 1.5, plus built heads with Kelford 199-b cams. I have read that the 10cm makes a difference -- my buddy Kermit can chime in regarding the 10cm 20g-xtr he has on his 2-liter build. With the Killer B headers you should definitely go for 10cm. Here's my graph from the same shop:

The 10 shouldn't hurt spool on this setup and will increase topend dramatically of course. On the 2.0, the 10cm (.73AR) just pulls and pulls all the way to redline.

But that Dom 2.5 G2 looks mighty fine... That's where my vote goes

Rip your Dom 1.5

Dave, IIRC I sent you this dyno sheet a while back when it was generated to discuss the difference the built heads and 10cm makes. Your car also weighs less with no brembos, R160 and if course being a GD vs GR.

OP is also a friend of mine hence why I had access to the dyno sheet hot off the presses haha

[Electrin]

Originally Posted by Dave D.

You have nearly an identical setup to mine. Nearly, as I do have the 10cm Dom 1.5, plus built heads with Kelford 199-b cams. I have read that the 10cm makes a difference -- my buddy Kermit can chime in regarding the 10cm 20g-xtr he has on his 2-liter build. With the Killer B headers you should definitely go for 10cm. Here's my graph from the same shop:

The first time I was at Infront, John actually showed me your car and I believe we talked for bit!

Only reason I ended up with the smaller hotside was because I got in BNIB with a coated hotside for a really good price from someone on here. If I bought it directly from Blouch, definitely would've gotten the 10cm^2.

I've actually been talking with Kermit for awhile, he was trying to get me to trade him my 1.5 for his 20g so I would have the 10cm hotside and he'd have the 8cm for his 2 liter

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by Electrin

The first time I was at Infront, John actually showed me your car and I believe we talked for bit!



Only reason I ended up with the smaller hotside was because I got in BNIB with a coated hotside for a really good price from someone on here. If I bought it directly from Blouch, definitely would've gotten the 10cm^2.



I've actually been talking with Kermit for awhile, he was trying to get me to trade him my 1.5 for his 20g so I would have the 10cm hotside and he'd have the 8cm for his 2 liter

We tried mixing and matching 20G-XTR and Dom 1.5 hotsides since the TW is the same measurements on paper according to BPT, but the clearances were not such we felt comfortable swapping. Plus with all the optimization of my setup, along with E85, I don't think the 10cm hurts me too much on my 2L....

Though a 10cm would definitely be a benefit your build imo.

[Electrin]

Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g

We tried mixing and matching 20G-XTR and Dom 1.5 hotsides since the TW is the same measurements on paper according to BPT, but the clearances were not such we felt comfortable swapping. Plus with all the optimization of my setup, plus E85, I don't think the 10cm hurts me too much on my 2L....

Though a 10cm would definitely be a benefit your build imo.

Well there was that but you were also trying to trade the entire turbos for a little bit instead of just swapping hotsides.

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by Electrin

Well there was that but you were also trying to trade the entire turbos for a little bit instead of just swapping hotsides.

Right, after we checked the hotside fitment.

[Dave D.]

Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g

The 10 shouldn't hurt spool on this setup and will increase topend dramatically of course. On the 2.0, the 10cm (.73AR) just pulls and pulls all the way to redline.

But that Dom 2.5 G2 looks mighty fine... That's where my vote goes

Rip your Dom 1.5

Dave, IIRC I sent you this dyno sheet a while back when it was generated to discuss the difference the built heads and 10cm makes. Your car also weighs less with no brembos, R160 and if course being a GD vs GR.

OP is also a friend of mine hence why I had access to the dyno sheet hot off the presses haha

Yes, now I remember this. What I noticed most was the difference in the powerband -- on my motor with the 10cm and the cams (I attribute most of the difference to the cams), is at or above 365whp from 4700rpm to 6700rpm, peaking at about 400whp.

Electrin's motor makes 360+ from 5000rpm to 6000rpm, a much narrower peak powerband.

The torque curves are similarly affected. To me it has to be mostly the cams.

Originally Posted by Electrin

The first time I was at Infront, John actually showed me your car and I believe we talked for bit!

Only reason I ended up with the smaller hotside was because I got in BNIB with a coated hotside for a really good price from someone on here. If I bought it directly from Blouch, definitely would've gotten the 10cm^2.

I've actually been talking with Kermit for awhile, he was trying to get me to trade him my 1.5 for his 20g so I would have the 10cm hotside and he'd have the 8cm for his 2 liter

I think your motor would have major gains if you stuck a set of Dom's cams in it. And while you're at it, I think I might just agree on that Dom 2.5. Honestly, the reason I went with the bigger cams was that one of my camshafts broke in half, and the heads were so worn that I just decided to go with new castings. Good luck on solving your problem, I'd think it would be cool for the three of us to meet up some time.

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by Dave D.

I'd think it would be cool for the three of us to meet up some time.

Absolutely.

Here's the link to the post about the new Dom 2.5.

https://www.facebook.com/25730308770...iuQl/?sfnsn=mo

[Electrin]

Originally Posted by Dave D.

Yes, now I remember this. What I noticed most was the difference in the powerband -- on my motor with the 10cm and the cams (I attribute most of the difference to the cams), is at or above 365whp from 4700rpm to 6700rpm, peaking at about 400whp.

Electrin's motor makes 360+ from 5000rpm to 6000rpm, a much narrower peak powerband.

The torque curves are similarly affected. To me it has to be mostly the cams.


I think your motor would have major gains if you stuck a set of Dom's cams in it. And while you're at it, I think I might just agree on that Dom 2.5. Honestly, the reason I went with the bigger cams was that one of my camshafts broke in half, and the heads were so worn that I just decided to go with new castings. Good luck on solving your problem, I'd think it would be cool for the three of us to meet up some time.

If the motor has to come out for any reason then I'll definitely be putting cams in it but hopefully it doesn't come to that, only so much my wallet can take

The new dom 2.5 looks sweet but it would most likely require a full on retune while the dom 1.5 with the larger inlet and hotside would only be some touch up tuning.

What I end up going with will depend on what I find when I start to take the car apart.

[Electrin]

Well, finally got around a to draining the oil and say A LOT of glitter in it. First time I've seen any glitter and I only have a little over 1000 miles since the tune.

Going to send a sample off to Blackstone but I'm not hopeful.

It's weird though, I don't have a rough or noisy idle and everything else seems to be fine. I wonder if my turbo bearings ate themselves, dumped metal into the pan, and then the rest of the engine is fine. Not likely but very very wishful thinking

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Truly it is a sad day

[Dave D.]

That's really a shame. I wonder if there's any way for you to find out the exact history of that block that came with the car.

[Electrin]

Originally Posted by Dave D.

That's really a shame. I wonder if there's any way for you to find out the exact history of that block that came with the car.

All I know is the mileage. Rest I just have to go off the previous owners word that he broke it in correctly and did oil changes every 3000 miles.

[Dave D.]

Originally Posted by Electrin

All I know is the mileage. Rest I just have to go off the previous owners word that he broke it in correctly and did oil changes every 3000 miles.

You just never know when you buy a used built motor. The good news is in buying the Sti you have an excellent platform and certainly if the motor itself is not useable you already have many of the parts so as not to start a new build from scratch. Best of luck!

[Jrae2424]

Originally Posted by Electrin

Well, finally got around a to draining the oil and say A LOT of glitter in it. First time I've seen any glitter and I only have a little over 1000 miles since the tune.

Going to send a sample off to Blackstone but I'm not hopeful.

It's weird though, I don't have a rough or noisy idle and everything else seems to be fine. I wonder if my turbo bearings ate themselves, dumped metal into the pan, and then the rest of the engine is fine. Not likely but very very wishful thinking

Even if it's not a spun bearing, glitter in the oil is not good. But maybe a few oil changes and a new pan and turbo if that's the issue can save the day. If not, I'm sure you realize the cost. Sorry, that sucks. I just spun bearing at 40000 and am not looking forward to spending another 10000 since I still owe about 5000 (on my credit card) for previous work.

[Electrin]

Originally Posted by Jrae2424

Even if it's not a spun bearing, glitter in the oil is not good. But maybe a few oil changes and a new pan and turbo if that's the issue can save the day. If not, I'm sure you realize the cost. Sorry, that sucks. I just spun bearing at 40000 and am not looking forward to spending another 10000 since I still owe about 5000 (on my credit card) for previous work.

Yeah, its totally wishful thinking. I do have an emergency fund for things like this and luckily paid off the work from April already but I was definitely hoping to at least get a year or two before having to rebuild the engine.

C'est La Vie

[Electrin]

Originally Posted by Dave D.

You just never know when you buy a used built motor. The good news is in buying the Sti you have an excellent platform and certainly if the motor itself is not useable you already have many of the parts so as not to start a new build from scratch. Best of luck!

I was hoping I'd be good since the shortblock came directly from IAG. I verified it was actually a stage 2.5 closed deck and the guy I bought it from showed me the receipt. But as you said, you never fully know with used purchases.

[Electrin]

Finally got my UOA back from Blackstone today. Oil used was Motul 8100 5w-40 and had just a tik over 1000 miles on it. Report showed high levels of 4 elements (first number will be what was in my oil and 2nd will be the universal avg. Al (5 vs 4), Fe (13 vs 9), Pb (4 vs 2), and Si (68 vs 10). The oil itself looked good with no fuel dilution or coolant.

The high level of silicon is most likely due to using silicone grease when installing the new fuel system (injectors, lines, rails, etc.)

The aluminum is sort of confusing since I'd assume if it came from the piston, there would also be high levels of copper, magnesium, and nickel since my pistons are 2618 but I could be wrong about that. There is a higher amount copper and magnesium in 2618 than iron or silicon so I don't think those elevated numbers are from the pistons.

Since my turbo is bb and not journal, I don't think the elevated levels of lead are from the turbo bearings since ball bearings typical don't have lead alloyed in them so the lead is most likely either from the main, rod, or camshaft bearings with the elevated level of iron being from either the crank or the cams.

The car has always made low oil pressure on 5w-40 and would hot idle 12-18 psi, cold start around 80, and cruise around 60-70. Based on this and what (little) knowledge I have about the oil path on EJs, I think it would make the most since if the lead and iron came from the heads since I believe they would see the affects of lower oil pressure the most, besides the turbo. This is obviously just speculation at this point and won't be able to confirm anything unless the engine is torn down.

I've since put in Motul 6100 10W-40 and am seeing much better pressure now. Hot idle is 18-24, cold start high 95-100, and cruising is 70-80. I've driven around 100 miles on the new oil (and filter) and there aren't any weird noises or hesitations while driving. I'm going to take another sample at 1000 miles on the heavier oil (if it makes it that far) and see what the results are.

The not building boost issue ended up being very simple, my iwg bracket ended up vibrating loose so the iwg was no longer sealed shut. The Cobb kit didn't come with a jam nut, a quick trip to ACE fixed that. I'm now building full boost again.

I guess only time will tell at this point if my engine will explode soon or not. One things for sure, definitely not taking it anywhere thats further than 50 miles from my house

[Dave D.]

Yes, I'd say 5w-40 is a bit thin for a built motor. I run 15w-40 in mine. Glad it was just an iwg issue.

I do the same with my car -- no long trips anymore. For that it's my trusty well-maintained 2008 Jeep or my wife's 2015 Crosstrek.

[Electrin]

IAG recommends Motul 5w-40 for pump and 10w-40 for e85 on their Stage 2.5. Honestly might bump up to a 5w-50 but we will see how this current oil change goes.

Unfortunately I'm doing what you shouldn't and dailying the project since it's my only car but I'm young and dumb, or at least thats my excuse.

Also don't have the space for two cars currently.

[Electrin]

I probably should've immediately switched to 10w-40 when I firt saw that 5w-40 was a little low on pressure instead of waiting to see metal in the oil but can't do anything about the past

[Dave D.]

Originally Posted by Electrin

I probably should've immediately switched to 10w-40 when I firt saw that 5w-40 was a little low on pressure instead of waiting to see metal in the oil but can't do anything about the past

You might just want to check on your oil pump. A failing pump could both lower your pressure and put metal into the oil.

[Electrin]

Originally Posted by Dave D.

You might just want to check on your oil pump. A failing pump could both lower your pressure and put metal into the oil.

That's a good idea and what I was going to do if upping to 10w-40 still was giving me low oil pressure.

Cheaper to do it now as insurance just in case that's what it is. And if it turns out to not be the issue, I can just save the new oil pump for when the engine does go.

An oil pump would 100% have iron, lead, and aluminum in it. I wish there was an easier way to check an oil pump other than taking the timing belt and all that off. Guess it's back to infront.

Since I'll be taking it down, maybe I should try and track down a 10cm hotside since John said it'd only be an hour or two of touch up tuning for the larger hotside.