K3rm1t's Link ECU Flex Tuned 02 WRX - Stock EJ205, FBO, 20G-XTR 10cm - 360WHP/349WTQ

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Car: 2002 WRX wagon - original EJ205, FBO: 20GXT-R 10cm, VA STi TMIC, JDM 6MT, ID1050X, Radium surge tank, E85 flex tune
Dyno: Mainline AWD1200
Location: InFront Automotive in Auburn, WA
Tuner: John Jamerson (JohnJohn)
Ambient temp: ~55°F
Weather: Mix of sun and clouds
Elevation: ~Sea level

Stock STi results on this dyno: ~200 WHP/200 WTQ
Peak E85 WHP/WTQ: 360WHP @ 5650 RPM - 349WTQ @ 5150 RPM
Peak Pump Gas WHP/WTQ: 325WHP @ 6008 RPM - 311WTQ @ 4656 RPM
Target boost: Pump: ~22-24 psi - Flex: ~22.5-24 psi
Transmission: TY856WB1CA (non-DCCD 6MT, Suretrac front & rear diffs, 4KG viscous center)
Gear used for tuning: 3rd (5th is closest to 1:1 on my JDM 6MT but dyno compensates to within 1%)
Ethanol fuel: Pump E85 (~75%E) for steady state/idle tuning + VP X85 mix (~80%E) for final power pulls
Pump gas: 76 92 octane (no octane booster)
Engine management: Link G4X drop-in standalone ECU



A note regarding the dyno sheet - the RPM is a tad off vs the actual engine speed, and pulls were actually done to around 7100 on the ECU display.

A quick clip on the dyno:

A quick clip on the dyno:

Induction/power/exhaust:

• Stock EJ205 longblock w/ 66k original miles - fresh head gasket and timing belt @ 61K
• Blouch 20G-XTR 10cm - P&Pd + ceramic coated, 2.4" inlet (freshly rebuilt) w/ BPT braided turbo oil feed line & Cobb EWG bracket
• 2017 STi OEM TMIC w/ Grimmspeed y-pipe
• Got It Rex intercooler splitter for GD chassis w/ GR/VA TMIC
• Turbosmart plumb-back BPV (TS-0205-1216)
• TiAL MVS 38mm (black) EWG using black and green springs (13psi) w/ Killer B ceramic coated dump-tube
• Killer B hard aluminum turbo inlet
• Killer B Holy Header with Swain Tech coating and V-band up-pipe
• Killer B OG oil pan w/ KB pickup & windage tray (putting this in the power section because without that pickup I doubt the 205 would last too long)
• Cobb SF intake and airbox w/ factory snorkel & modified OEM intake snorkus elbow
• Cobb TBE (catted 2020 version) w/ Kartboy hangers
• Cobb (MAC) 3-port EBCS w/ ¼" fittings and fuel hose
• Cobb turbo heat-shield
• PTP lava turbo blanket
• Thermal Zero downpipe blanket
• IAG V2 TGVs
• NGK 2667 one step colder plugs
• Grimmspeed AOS (going to the IAG/KB or Dom's AOS when the built motor goes in)
• Generic unbranded catch can routed in series after GS AOS
• GDT "light enough" crank pulley (the damper add-on from Dom is coming soon after a redesign was needed)

Fueling:

• ID1050X injectors @ 43.5psi
• IAG V3 fuel rails
• Radium 1.5L surge tank w/ BKS1000 brushless pump/controller
• Radium stainless steel fuel filter kit mounted on included brake master cylinder bracket
• Radium FPD-R fuel pulse dampers on each fuel rail
• Aeromotive 13129 FPR
• Walbro 255 rear lift pump w/ install kit
• Mix of 6AN & 8AN fittings and braided PTFE lines w/ 8AN being used when applicable

Tuning/telemetry:

• Link G4X drop-in standalone ECU
• Link CAN Lambda module
• Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband w/ Innovate O2 sensor heatsink
• Link ethanol content sensor
• 2X BTI CAN multi-gauges mounted in JCS pod w/ matching black passenger A-pillar
• Cobb 4 bar MAP sensor
  
• AEM intake air temp sensor in DIY Spec C manifold location
• Auto Meter oil and fuel pressure sensors
• EI-Sensor 2" NTC thermal probe for measuring oil temp
• Innovate TC-4 thermocouple amplifier
• Innovate K-Type EGT probe on cylinder 4

Driveline/brakes:

• TY856WB1CA non-DCCD full 6MT swap w/ R180 and rear 5x100 04 STi hubs
• ACT Streetlite 6MT flywheel
• OEM Exedy 6MT clutch (clutch and flywheel were balanced together as an assembly)
• DarkmatterX DM-1 chassis mounted shifter w/ Killer B WRC style delrin knob
  
• Driveshaft Shop carbon fiber driveshaft
• Group N transmission mount
• Goodridge stainless clutch line
• Kartboy crossmember bushings
• Whiteline front and rear diff mounts
• Whiteline rear diff mount in cradle bushing kits
• Whiteline rear diff support
• TiC shifter bushings to replace remaining bushings after DM-1 install
• GD STi Brembo calipers front and rear
• Hawk HPS 5.0 pads
• Stoptech stainless brake lines
• Stoptech slotted cryo rotors
• Mach V 5mm wheel spacers (4x)
• Silver Enkei RPF1s 17 x 7.5 w/ black SR45R lugnuts
• 215/45R17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (now running 225/45/17 Bravuris 5HMs on gold 04 STi BBS wheels for winter)

Suspension:

• ST (KW) V1 coilovers
• Whiteline sedan rear lateral links
• Whiteline 22mm front and rear swaybar kit on medium stiffness setting
• Whiteline billet rear swaybar mounts
• Whiteline adjustable endlinks
• Whiteline steering rack bushings
• Whiteline anti lift kit
• Whiteline vehicle essentials kit
• Whiteline front roll center adjustment kit
• Whiteline front camber bolts
• Whiteline Com 'C' front strut mounts
• Group N motor mounts
• Group N STi rear strut mounts
• JDM STi front lower control arms
• Cusco front strut tower brace
• Perrin pitch stop mount
• Radium brake master cylinder brace

Miscellaneous:

• Torque Solutions cylinder 4 cooling mod
• Mishimoto radiator w/ magnetic drain plug & OEM hoses + Koyo/HKS caps
• Perrin radiator shroud and alternator cover
• Grimmspeed MAF blockoff plate
  
• Killer B water pump housing
• Black Rally Armor UR mudflaps w/ red logos
• 2004 STi steering wheel (East Detailing wrapped)
• OEM all weather floor mats w/ IAG mat bracket (this bracket is seriously underrated)
• OEM 06/07 undercover/belly pan

I decided to make a new thread for this round of upgrades because the ECM, transmission, turbo, fuel system, and several other major aspects of the car changed significantly, warranting the new thread.

Just to set the stage for this somewhat unique configuration: I bought the car from an employee of a local Subaru dealership with the original EJ205 engine it came with from the factory. Right before I bought the car, he spent over $6K pulling the engine, decking the heads, replacing the head gaskets & timing belt, and just generally repairing any issues noted by the dealership. Engine was pulled because one of the head gaskets was leaking when it was brought in.

Last compression test was very promising - 163-164psi and sub 10% leak all around. Two Blackstone tests also corroborated the good health of the motor. So I decided to see how far I can push this lil 205 since it appears to be in pretty good shape.

After the stock 2.0L in this setup gives up the ghost, an IAG Magnum shortblock will be installed under some 207 Spec C big port heads w/ Dom's cams + a GTX 3576 g2 Spoolinator kit.

The modding I have done has been all business. I bought it entirely stock and have focused very little on exterior and aesthetic mods, concentrating instead on handling and acceleration.

The engine management was swapped over from a Cobb AP V3 on the stock ECU, to a Link G4X standalone, and the thing really kicks ass - the firmware also just got a big update the day before my tune. Link actually sent us a slightly upgraded by model vs the one we ordered, so a bit of rewiring and massaging was necessary to get it all hooked up, but as of now, everything seems to work. The upgrade gives me a lot of flexibility with where I want to go with the setup in the future, and allows for AVCS, DBW, anti lag, LC, and lots of other fun things I plan to utilize later down the line. It also natively supports integrating a ton of telemetry features and gives us a CAN bus to play with.The BTI gauges I have are super neat and let me display just about everything I could want in an easy to digestible way (see below).

Also during this round of updates the car was changed from a deadhead fuel setup to parallel when the surge tank was fitted.

When I first got the car back on the road, we ran into a few issues, namely exhaust leaks, and persistent low oil temperature. After some troubleshooting and replacing the AEM sensor with a 2" NTC thermal probe, along with grinding down the coating on the V-band on my header - all leaks and temp issues were solved.

As for the usage of this massive turbine housing on this 20G - it was a generous gift from Dave D. And while my VF39 would have definitely spooled faster, with all these mods and E85, I decided to opt for the 20G since it was available and is a superior turbo for the application despite the larger A/R. And let me just say, boy am I glad I did. The car makes more power and torque everywhere in the RPM range, and doesn't feel sluggish at all to drive. The crazy thing is this is true even below 3K RPM with the 10cm/.73A/R housing - this was not what I was expecting. I was anticipating massive lag before 4500 but it actually feels much more responsive than my smaller turbo setup - if you compare the dyno sheets the car actually makes the same power as before in the same places - except it just keeps pulling. Overall spool and response are both great and the car pulls HARD with a similar powerband, except it just keeps going past where the VF dropped off. High RPM is a blast with this setup.

I suppose all the weight removal done to the rotating assemblies (CF driveshaft, LW pulley, LW FW), the ball bearing CHRA, plus the E85 really make all the difference in response and spool on this big of a turbo on my 2.0L - and I don't even have AVCS! FWIW my use of the 10cm hotside over an 8cm isn't for lack of trying. Tried fitting a 1.5XTR 8cm hotside to the 20G, and the wheel to housing clearance was too large for my tuner and I's liking. And Blouch won't sell me a 8cm turbine housing because this turbo is from 2014 (and was rebuilt), and supposedly their aero has changed since 2014, which breaks fitment with the newer hotsides.

WG duty was lowered slightly during the street tuning portion of the calibration due to high IDCs in higher gears. I am still hitting ~24 in higher gears though. We may go into the map and add a temperature offset to allow for more boost when conditions are favorable, while keeping the injectors and motor happy in 5th gear when it's cold at night and preventing overboosting.

As for normal driveability, the setup performs very well in non performance settings, everything just works.

Some of the 6MT swap components were rusty after their exposure to salt during their time in 4 Eastern Canadian winters. So it was decided to coat many of the the rusty components with POR-15, rebuild all parts possible, and replace everything else that was deemed too far gone.

The surge tank w/ the brushless 550+ pump may be overkill for now, (although at 360WHP on E I certainly think it's useful) but I don't want to upgrade the pump again later when I go with the built 2.5L and a GT35r - also brushless pumps are sweet and are inherently much more tunable. Plus we are putting 8AN wherever possible to allow the GTX3576r Gen 2 I have to stretch its legs later. Also ended up replacing the Perrin brake master cylinder brace along with the OEM fuel filter with a Radium stainless steel fuel filter assembly that mounts on a master cylinder brace/bracket because my tuner didn't want to test the limits of the factory paper filter.

That did require me to delete my washer reservoir because of the filter's location, but that freed me up to mount a catch can around there, and I have having a buddy 3D print me a custom reservoir to fit with everything in there. Last thing I have to install on my car for it to be complete in it's current incarnation in my mind is a Fumoto valve next oil change - but other than that, all I need now is seat time.

There are a few quirks of the car with the drop in ECU. It has a rare issue where it will refuse to start up. Tuner said it happened 5% of the time he had it, but I haven't noticed it in my weeks of having the car back - he said it was something he had seen with other PNP boards. Another issue occurs when trying to move when cold with small throttle inputs, the engine leans out slightly and the engine speed drops. Tuner thinks it is a cold engine E85 wall wetting issue. And there have been a few times I've started the car cold where it sputtered a few times and AFRs swung lean and then it went back to normal when cruising in gear. Again, tuner attributed this to wall wetting during negative engine speed changes in high vacuum. Overall these are very minor issues and don't really affect the usability of the car.

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[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Not enough room in the main post:

Currently I am the only person I am aware of in the US running this splitter. I've told a few folks about it but they've had a hard time getting in touch with GIR. Guess I got lucky.

Also worth noting I am only running 215/45s because I didn't want to roll my fenders when I bought the tires. If I could go back and order wheels and tires from scratch I would have gone with 8" wide 17s and 235/45s or something similar. But now on my 7.5s I'm gonna have to work with 225s or 235s, will be interesting to play around with aspect ratios. A bit of a shame that the sidewall construction doesn't generally stiffen up until 225s+, my current setup the tires are a bit keen to rollover despite increased tire pressure and negative camber. I don't think a set of 225/45 PS4Ss would do this - and not just based on tire size.

One thing I am noticing is that the headlights really need some attention... 23 years has taken its toll.

There's probably more I am forgetting but oh well

Here are some photos

Surge tank & turbo area:



Refreshed R180 rear end:



East Detailing wrapped 04 STi wheel:



BTI multi-gauges (each one has 10 programmable screens):

[Dakota D]

good job mr.frog

[Karlot]

HECK YEAH,

that thing looks like a blast, and damn good numbers especially considering it's a lower reading dyno, i bet in my area with our dynojet this thing would make over 400 with ease.

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by Dakota D

good job mr.frog

Thank you!

Originally Posted by Karlot

HECK YEAH,

that thing looks like a blast, and damn good numbers especially considering it's a lower reading dyno, i bet in my area with our dynojet this thing would make over 400 with ease.

It sure is! I was really expecting all this power to come at the expense of spool and response but alas, both are improved compared to my previous VF pump gas setup. E85 truly is the fuel of the gods. And I'll be taking it over to a Dynojet in my area when I have some freetime - would be cool to see it crack 400 wheel on the stock 2L.

[umscooby]

Great work!

I'd be tempted to turn the boost down on your pump gas tune with that motor. Anything more than 20-21psi would scare me, but that's just me.

[umscooby]

Double Post

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by umscooby

Great work!
I'd be tempted to turn the boost down on your pump gas tune with that motor. Anything more than 20-21psi would scare me, but that's just me.

My tuner did something like that for a car for a buddy of mine - tuned the pump gas side very conservatively, and ethanol a lot more aggressively. For this tune, when he asked I said ethanol I wanted a 9/10 and pump gas 7/10 in terms of aggression.

Even on E85 25PSI is still quite a lot of boost on this stock longblock Though after the dyno we turned WG duty down slightly and boost dropped by a PSI or so (to maintain safe IDCs when cold). But we may go back in and add a compensation table to only drop the boost when it's super cold out to avoid it spiking too high.

The pump gas tune is honestly not going to be used all that much, and when I do use pump gas, I'll likely have some ethanol still in the tank, contributing a lot to knock the resistance (which is the main thing I worry about with pump gas aside from lacking the cylinder cooling of E85). But overall I am not too worried about the pump gas tune - and I trust my tuner. Plus this is a stock EJ20 making 350WTQ, I have to imagine it is only a matter of time before I get a visit from old uncle Rodney.

Most of the street refinement that was performed after the dyno was on E85, but some pump gas was added after most of the ethanol stuff was done, and the car performed quite well. But boost/WG duty may have been turned down slightly, like on ethanol, I honestly haven't driven the car on pump gas since the tune. And obviously those 205 springs/cams/valves were never designed for 7200 RPM @ ~24PSI but hey, it's running good as of now (knock on wood) and I have the Spoolinator kit, Treadstone FMIC, etc. already set aside for when the motor blows up - so at this point I am just enjoying the setup and seeing what comes next.

[PotatoFlakeSTi]

Looks like a lot of fun on E85.

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by PotatoFlakeSTi

Looks like a lot of fun on E85.

Thanks! Yea the spool and response ethanol provides is awesome.

[ARKTiKPENGUiN]

Buwahahaha, I knew that 10cm 20G was going to be awesome on E85 especially with the JDM 6MT. Glad the car is running well and you're enjoying it, and that gauge setup looks awesome.

FWIW, my Link ECU has not given me issues with refusing to start. Even in 20-30* temps after sitting for months with ethanol in it during winter when I store it, it fires up immediately. I'd wager a bet that if it does happen, it's probably something to do with the grounds in the bay (ECU ground is on the driver side of mani, to be specific)

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by ARKTiKPENGUiN

Buwahahaha, I knew that 10cm 20G was going to be awesome on E85 especially with the JDM 6MT. Glad the car is running well and you're enjoying it, and that gauge setup looks awesome.

FWIW, my Link ECU has not given me issues with refusing to start. Even in 20-30* temps after sitting for months with ethanol in it during winter when I store it, it fires up immediately. I'd wager a bet that if it does happen, it's probably something to do with the grounds in the bay (ECU ground is on the driver side of mani, to be specific)

Hey thanks! It sure is a lot of fun.

I haven't actually experienced the issue with starting yet even after having the car for a few weeks, so I can't comment on exactly how it acts when it does it. But it's not an issue having to do with ethanol, as the initial cold start ethanol problems were resolved with tuning - appears just be a quirk of the drop in standalones from what I gather.

I'll check grounds to be safe but I'll investigate the problem more when it actually pops up.

[umscooby]

Originally Posted by ARKTiKPENGUiN

Buwahahaha, I knew that 10cm 20G was going to be awesome on E85 especially with the JDM 6MT. Glad the car is running well and you're enjoying it, and that gauge setup looks awesome.

FWIW, my Link ECU has not given me issues with refusing to start. Even in 20-30* temps after sitting for months with ethanol in it during winter when I store it, it fires up immediately. I'd wager a bet that if it does happen, it's probably something to do with the grounds in the bay (ECU ground is on the driver side of mani, to be specific)

Me hopes you are using an ethanol stabilizer during that time. I buy E98 in 55 gallon drums and the stabilizer goes in right away.

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

FWIW I left 30+ gallons of ethanol in sealed containers for 7 months and it still read E78 when I used it. I considered some stabilizers but decided against it after speaking with some people who use ethanol often.

Though the equation is a bit different if you're storing it in the rear tank vs a fully sealed gas can.

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Today during a 70F IAT WOT pull running some E81 I got a CEL for IDCs over the set limit (98%).

Will have to take some logs to see if the map is over enriching - I was aware from the get go ID1050s would be a bit borderline for this kind of setup on ethanol.

Edit: after reviewing the log it looks like it hit 99.2% :') I will either be mixing some 92 octane with this summer pump ethanol to keep it slightly below 80% since as of now it is 82% - or lowering WGDC. I doubt fuel pressure will be raised to address this issue.

[HughGordon]

So the Link ecu can turn on the CEL? Can you read those codes with a normal OBD II reader or do you need to use the Link software?

[fasteddie313]

Didn't read everything yet but what I'm seeing is that the wideband was left on gasoline AFR setting for the E85 pulls..

Confused me for a second, because those E85 AFRs would be WAYYYY off, but if the wideband was just left to read as if it was gasoline then that would make sense..

Also looks like their was more time spent on the low RPM timing on E85 than on gas..

Great flat power on top!!

Very nice setup, but your already looking to go bigger lol..

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by HughGordon

So the Link ecu can turn on the CEL? Can you read those codes with a normal OBD II reader or do you need to use the Link software?

The Link ECU has it's own set of trouble codes and in this case the tune was setup to throw a CEL when IDC passes 98%.

OBD2 does not work and all codes must be read via the PCLink software. Thankfully Washington does not test emissions

Originally Posted by fasteddie313

Didn't read everything yet but what I'm seeing is that the wideband was left on gasoline AFR setting for the E85 pulls..

Confused me for a second, because those E85 AFRs would be WAYYYY off, but if the wideband was just left to read as if it was gasoline then that would make sense..

Also looks like their was more time spent on the low RPM timing on E85 than on gas..

Great flat power on top!!

Very nice setup, but your already looking to go bigger lol..

Thanks! This setup has been a blast so far But I did build it with something bigger in mind - namely the GTX3576 G2 Spoolinator kit I got for a sweet deal that is sitting in my garage. Aiming for 600 on corn when the 2L dies and gets replaced with an IAG Magnum 2.5L.

You are correct that more time was definitely spent dialing in the E85 portion of the flex tune because that is where I will be spending the vast majority of my time - mostly for the torque and the knock safety. But at the end of street tuning, pump gas was added back to the tank and the car was road tuned on 92 octane to finish up this iteration of the map. I have yet to drive it on pure pump gas.

Yeah even though it's technically not correct, most tuners leave the E85 stoich scaling set to pump gas or just use Lambda which doesn't care about the fuel type.

I use Lambda on my digital multi-gauges for certain readouts/screens and AFR for others.

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by ARKTiKPENGUiN

FWIW, my Link ECU has not given me issues with refusing to start. Even in 20-30* temps after sitting for months with ethanol in it during winter when I store it, it fires up immediately. I'd wager a bet that if it does happen, it's probably something to do with the grounds in the bay (ECU ground is on the driver side of mani, to be specific)

Finally ran into the ECU starting issue - my multi-gauges read 0 on all parameters and the ECU wouldn't connect to PCLink.

A quick on/off flip of the key resolved this, and this is the first time I've encountered this since I've had the car.

[ARKTiKPENGUiN]

Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g

Finally ran into the ECU starting issue - my multi-gauges read 0 on all parameters and the ECU wouldn't connect to PCLink.

A quick on/off flip of the key resolved this, and this is the first time I've encountered this since I've had the car.

Only time I've seen that happen is when the ECU isn't seeing proper ground, or power from the main relay. This can happen when the jumpers aren't set up properly on the board but I'd expect it to happen every time if it were the jumpers.

My car hasn't had this issue other than when I had the jumpers backwards on first install and obviously when I fried the ECU power pins and blew the main SBF due to installing the battery backwards cuz I'm stupid.

Only thing I can wager a guess at is I have the big 3 ground kit but it's done a little differently, maybe that helps? I have from the Driver Strut tower to the Intake Manifold, from the battery ground on the Driver Fender to the Driver Cylinder Head/Dipstick bolt, from the Passenger Strut tower to the Intake Manifold, and from the Passenger Cylinder Head to the rad support (passenger fender ground is cut out, otherwise it'd be there)

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by ARKTiKPENGUiN

Only time I've seen that happen is when the ECU isn't seeing proper ground, or power from the main relay. This can happen when the jumpers aren't set up properly on the board but I'd expect it to happen every time if it were the jumpers.

My car hasn't had this issue other than when I had the jumpers backwards on first install and obviously when I fried the ECU power pins and blew the main SBF due to installing the battery backwards cuz I'm stupid.

Only thing I can wager a guess at is I have the big 3 ground kit but it's done a little differently, maybe that helps? I have from the Driver Strut tower to the Intake Manifold, from the battery ground on the Driver Fender to the Driver Cylinder Head/Dipstick bolt, from the Passenger Strut tower to the Intake Manifold, and from the Passenger Cylinder Head to the rad support (passenger fender ground is cut out, otherwise it'd be there)

Don't have any other electrical problems other than this, and the problem is exceeding rare (seen it once)

But perhaps I'll double check all OEM grounds again, and maybe make or buy a grounding kit. I did look into the big 3 in my research.

Tuner also said he's seen this before doing PNP board installs on GD cars.

[Dave D.]

Originally Posted by K3rm1tth3fr0g

Don't have any other electrical problems other than this, and the problem is exceeding rare (seen it once)

But perhaps I'll double check all OEM grounds again, and maybe make or buy a grounding kit. I did look into the big 3 in my research.

Tuner also said he's seen this before doing PNP board installs on GD cars.

How's the car been running? Get this issue sorted out? How's the 20g-xtr holding up?

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Originally Posted by Dave D.

How's the car been running? Get this issue sorted out? How's the 20g-xtr holding up?

Haven't fixed anything yet technically but haven't run into the no start issue since having the car aside from once.

Everything else has been sorted out and the car is running great! 20GXT-R pulls and pulls, thanks again for that. The 10cm hotside certainly pushes spool back a bit but the 6MT gearing, E85, and the general optimizations I've made to the setup make it extremely usable day to day. And it goes without saying that the topend is pretty awesome.

Just put on the gold BBS 04 STi wheels I've been waiting to install until it got cold and wet around here. They came balanced with some mediocre 225/45/17 all seasons that I will wear out and replace with something better, maybe PS5S?

May raise the suspension this year a little since I might be taking the car into some snow, we'll see.

I'll post a better pic of the car with new wheels when it is out of the garage.

Haven't ran into that starting issue that John was mentioning aside from one time in the 6 months since I've had the car.

[K3rm1tth3fr0g]

Little update:

After some fussing, I got some things working that weren’t functioning prior - like gear detection, and my multi gauge shift lights. Also just got all the bits together to start wiring in a momentary switch for launch control (won't go too crazy with the ignition retard because I'm catted at the moment) and now that gears are detecting I may go in and add no lift shifting

Decided to go with a smaller switch than the one in the photo due to mounting. I am installing it in the blank switch by the E brake.



Looking forward to being able to use rolling anti lag when I finally switch over to my catless KB downpipe on the big motor... But given the health of this 2 liter, and the great UOAs and compression, I have some hope it will be at least a little while before it kicks the bucket

Toward the end of February I'll be heading back to my tuner for a touch up to adjust/add some more protections and corrections, and turn on some fun Link goodies.

Right now the tune is using simple open loop boost control with the 3 port and the TiAL 38mm gate but we are going to switch over to closed loop to hopefully spool a tad bit faster. Currently running 25% WGDC at WOT with the 13 psi spring and I am spooling right around ~4500 on the street using ethanol.

Additionally, we will be turning on and adjusting some more lambda correction features like long term fuel trimming that was added recently to the Link ECM. Also adding some other more time consuming features like CL lambda corrections during WOT - currently it's setup to transition to open loop lambda at 4000RPM. Getting the tune to be happy with AF corrections at low RPM/air mass and high RPM/mass can be finicky.

We didn't use the stock knock sensor during the original tune as I was not expecting to use pump gas very often and enabling it is a bit more work than just flicking a switch, but since I have been using pump slightly more than I anticipated and don't want to rely on ethanol for knock control - I turned it on and set it up and will be having the thresholds and gains dialed in on the dyno.

More updates to come

[Dave D.]

That thing's going to run like an AMG by the time you're done!