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Old 07-30-2004, 07:43 AM   #1
ride5000
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Default compression test results

switched over to copper 1-step colder plugs yesterday (ngk bkr7e). took about an hour and a half, taking my time with three beers..

tested the compression while i was in there, and got 165 on each cylinder!

the motor is tight and strong and i am happy. at first i didn't believe the results, so i tested #2 and #4 a second time, and i got 165 again. motor was almost too warm to work on.

27k miles total, last 5k with utec st2, last 24k with mbc @ 16-17psi. i have never used under 93 octane gas. mobil 1 motor oil since 4k miles. i didn't have a jewler's loupe, but from what i could discern at first glance on the oem plugs they looked clean. i'll take a closer look today.

i didn't go easy on this motor when i broke it in. i didn't abuse it, but i was doing quick blasts up to 100mph while under 500 miles on the odo.

fwiw,
ken
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Old 07-30-2004, 08:21 AM   #2
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Very good Ken, that shows that your tuning ability is sound!
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Old 07-30-2004, 08:22 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000
motor was almost too warm to work on.

Yeah, I hate how it needs to be warm to do a compression check; it's sooo much easier to pull the plugs when it's cold
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:15 PM   #4
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did another test today. 39k miles, so 12k on the pulled coppers. engine not so warm as last time. car was stone cold so i idled it until the upper radiator hose was pressurized and a bit warm to the touch. probably ~120-130*F.

157, all four corners.

i've been running a vf23 @ 20psi @ 11.5:1 for ~6 months now. before that was the oem @ 20psi winter, 18psi summer.

old plugs didn't look too bad. ground strap was grey/white, electrodes a bit worn and rounded but not excessively so. gaps had widened from 0.032 to 0.037.

gapped the new ones to 0.035 (out of the box they were ~0.032) and slapped 'em in. took about an hour... no beers this time.

ken
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:19 PM   #5
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How are you testing compression? Sounds like you have some sort of DIY setup for this.
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:25 PM   #6
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a compression tester! 25 bucks, actron brand, from sears.

take the old plugs out, stop the injectors from flowing (i use the utec security map), stick throttle wide open, put the tester in the plug hole, crank for 5-10 seconds, get out and read gauge, reset, move to another hole, repeat.

it takes a few more minutes but it's peace of mind, and it's only like another 10-15 minutes tops. highly suggested tool for the collection.
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Old 10-10-2005, 09:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000


it takes a few more minutes but it's peace of mind, and it's only like another 10-15 minutes tops. highly suggested tool for the collection.
I wasn't aware that there was another faster way to do it. In any case, nice numbers.

What made you decide to run a gap 0f 0.035 inches versus the as specified gap?

-Cheers
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Old 10-11-2005, 08:15 AM   #8
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Old 10-11-2005, 08:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdvma
Very good Ken, that shows that your tuning ability is sound!
That, and I like his break-in method.

FWIW, Ken....I have sfw that computes dynamic compression in a given engine; you've gotta know the volume / camshaft specifics, but it's pretty neat.

S.
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:12 AM   #10
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i should point something out too...

it is better/safer to disconnect the coilpack entirely from the harness while you're cranking without load. that way you have no secondary coil system in place and therefore no high voltage that tries to find a path to ground. once an arc forms somewhere and leaves some carbon behind, it's going to do it again and again... at that point you'll probably end up getting a new coilpack.

when disconnecting the packs from the harness, be careful with the little clips that hold the terminals to the coilpack. they're fragile and i've heard of lots of folks breaking them off, which sucks.
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2xlr8n
That, and I like his break-in method.

FWIW, Ken....I have sfw that computes dynamic compression in a given engine; you've gotta know the volume / camshaft specifics, but it's pretty neat.

S.
Is the psi results of a compression always the same for a given comp ratio?

My reason for asking is because I recently comp tested mine and got an unusually low number on all 4 cylinders(126 psi), but exactly the same number on all 4. its an axis stg 1 block w/ wrx heads w/ cometic gaskets. I was told by Ron @ axis that its the ring gap he uses, so when the pistons expand, the ring gaps dont butt ends. He said anything above 120 is fine.

I figured maybe my comp ration isn't what I thought it was for the low comp test numbers.

I used same method as ride, hot motor when tested, throttle plate open, all plugs were out.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000
i should point something out too...

it is better/safer to disconnect the coilpack entirely from the harness while you're cranking without load. that way you have no secondary coil system in place and therefore no high voltage that tries to find a path to ground. once an arc forms somewhere and leaves some carbon behind, it's going to do it again and again... at that point you'll probably end up getting a new coilpack.

when disconnecting the packs from the harness, be careful with the little clips that hold the terminals to the coilpack. they're fragile and i've heard of lots of folks breaking them off, which sucks.

...and pulling the 'IGN' fuse does exactly what that the above does not????
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Old 10-11-2005, 03:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty
...and pulling the 'IGN' fuse does exactly what that the above does not????
keeps me from having to find the ign fuse.

seriously, where is it? i assume its in the underdash block...

that would of course work just as well.
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Old 10-11-2005, 05:40 PM   #14
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I tested both of the WRXs about a month ago...160 on all 4 in the 48k car and 155 on mine at 57k

Lets hear it for EJ205s!

(psst I still run 0.028 )
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:24 PM   #15
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time for another update... 46k miles. been running a vf23 at 22psi and 11.5:1 afr for almost a year.
(in order of test)
#4 160psi
#2 160psi
#1 157psi
#3 155psi
#4 155psi

i can live with those numbers!

also made two changes to the ignition system, and one to the overall electrical system...

1) gapped plugs to 0.040
2) ran 4 individual 10awg ground wires from coil pack anchor bolts directly to battery -ve.
3) ran additional 10awg ground from existing ground point on #4 intake manifold runner directly to battery -ve.

no ecu reset. god damned car seems to idle smoother. we'll see how it holds up.
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Old 07-14-2006, 10:58 PM   #16
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didya ever find that fuse?
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:21 AM   #17
ride5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
time for another update... 46k miles. been running a vf23 at 22psi and 11.5:1 afr for almost a year.
(in order of test)
#4 160psi
#2 160psi
#1 157psi
#3 155psi
#4 155psi

i can live with those numbers!

also made two changes to the ignition system, and one to the overall electrical system...

1) gapped plugs to 0.040
2) ran 4 individual 10awg ground wires from coil pack anchor bolts directly to battery -ve.
3) ran additional 10awg ground from existing ground point on #4 intake manifold runner directly to battery -ve.

no ecu reset. god damned car seems to idle smoother. we'll see how it holds up.

periodic update: no issues yet with misfires at 0.040 gap.
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:08 PM   #18
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what misfires do you have? I sometimes rarely get those low load misfires. I havn't had one for weeks though. Heard they were because of my semi-lightweight flywheel and modded stock injectors.
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:52 PM   #19
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I sometimes get the no/light load misfires on my 02 as well. My flywheel is stock but I do have modded stock injectors. My tuner suggested I try changing out the colder plugs for stock ones and see if it helps. I just changed them last friday so too soon to tel but so far no codes. He also mentioned the crank or was it cam) angle sensor can throw codes for no real good reason, expecially on the 02's.
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:32 PM   #20
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165-170 in all 4 as tested today. Same as it was last time I did it
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Old 03-25-2007, 01:46 PM   #21
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I tried to do a comp. test on my car, but got too damn frustrated an gave up until I can regain composure!! It's so hard to tighten the air hose in the plug holes, there's just no room to work! Anyone one have any tips/pointers??
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Old 03-25-2007, 08:53 PM   #22
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I find that I have to "point" the hose a bit more vertical than I would expect it to be. Align it with one hand and twist with the other. Its hard but once you get the trick it becomes easy on the rest of them.
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:33 AM   #23
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Thanks, I'll give it another try this weekend.
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:14 AM   #24
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OK instead of starting a new thread I'll revive this one.

03 wrx 130k miles (last 85k AP~stg2)
1: 150
2: 155
3: 145
4: 135

This was done on a cold engine.
I've been debating swapping on a 16g, but wanted tog et results from compression test first. Think it'd be safe at least for awhile??
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Old 05-15-2007, 11:29 AM   #25
ride5000
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sorry to tell you but 4 looks pretty low, i'm afraid.

that's a 20psi drop from its sister cylinder.

that said, i'll bet there are people driving around with cracked pistons who have no idea whatsoever. depending on the failure they can be remarkably subtle in their effect on power.
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