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Old 09-02-2004, 02:23 AM   #1
Dendrobium
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Default Extensive Subaru 4 pot/2 pot part # info thread

I was doing some research on the subaru 4pot front brake upgrade and the "infamous" 2pot rear brake upgrade.

I found some really comprehensive japanese websites that were surprisingly detailed and thought it might help others contemplating the same.

Here they are in no particular order -- I used the www.babelfish.altavista.com translation service to get "some semblance" of the English.

Enjoy

================================================== ========
Straight from Subaru Sti:
http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/e/GRN/tec_info/1.html

================================================== ========
A comprehensive listing of parts -- including the 2pot/4pot upgrade, as well as part numbers for sway bars, fenders, etc. etc. Also includes japanese yen prices so you can compare how much it would be (approx.) to source directly from Japan:
http://www5d.biglobe.ne.jp/~N-TEC/im...econtents.html

direct babelfish link:
http://www.babelfish.altavista.com/b....html&lp=ja_en


================================================== ========
4 pot / 2 pot part number listings/prices w/pictures of each part:
http://homepage2.nifty.com/~legacy/m...pot-parts.html
http://homepage2.nifty.com/~legacy/m...pot-parts.html

direct babelfish links:
http://www.babelfish.altavista.com/b....html&lp=ja_en
http://www.babelfish.altavista.com/b....html&lp=ja_en


================================================== ========
Detailed, step-by-step install of 4pot / 2pot w/pictures:
http://homepage2.nifty.com/~legacy/m...ot-change.html
http://homepage2.nifty.com/~legacy/m...ot-change.html

direct babelfish links:
http://www.babelfish.altavista.com/b...ot-change.html
http://www.babelfish.altavista.com/b...ot-change.html



================================================== ========
The rest I was too lazy to create direct babelfish links to them..sorry!

Looks like some adapters to fit 2pot rear calipers to existing 1pot backing plate:
http://www.dspeed.co.jp/hard/
EDITED FEB-07-2005
added in-line pic


A hodge-podge of other interesting links (including one on how to fit aluminum A-Arms to the WRX GGA wagon)
http://tatsu-u.hp.infoseek.co.jp/leg.../4pot/4pot.htm
http://b4.jk.to/salvage/b4.html
http://www.os.rim.or.jp/~s14/data/BH.../4pot/4pot.htm
http://dng.dip.jp/impreza/alumiarm/
http://www2s.biglobe.ne.jp/~masa-nak/imp2.htm
http://www3.plala.or.jp/wrc/typeM/pat/2POT.htm


Hope you enjoyed them.
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Last edited by Dendrobium; 02-07-2005 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 09-02-2004, 03:12 AM   #2
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first link is intersting, making the Brembos fit under 15" wheels!
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Old 09-02-2004, 11:05 AM   #3
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looks like it's a different set of brembo's, altogether
"looks like it's a different set of brembo's", said all
but they give you P/N's for new rotors, calipers, some washers, springs and bolts...
but one thing that would be absolutely necessary is an adapter or braket of some kind...
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Old 09-02-2004, 01:38 PM   #4
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Its the wacky wording of the translation. It is the standard subaru 4-pot (non-brembo) they are talking about (what the part number lists).
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Old 09-02-2004, 02:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratos
Its the wacky wording of the translation. It is the standard subaru 4-pot (non-brembo) they are talking about (what the part number lists).
Yea thats the rear non-Brembo 2pot rear PNs too.

ss
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Old 09-02-2004, 06:09 PM   #6
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If somebody would market a set of rear 2 pots in black with an adapter plate to use the existing WRX backing plate, I'd buy one tomorrow!!
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Old 09-07-2004, 03:19 AM   #7
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Default 4pot spreadsheet

I don't know how exact the prices are exactly -- I gathered them from the japanese websites I posted earlier in this thread, but likely without dealer/vendor markup I'm not sure if you could actually get these prices IRL.
They also don't include taxes/shipping etc.

However, the part numbers and "relative" value of different pieces will give you an idea of what parts are expensive and what parts aren't.

Also, please post to the thread if you see any errors in my spreadsheet.

PS - my motivation for doing this? -- I'm currently trying to fit the 4pots/2pots to my GGA wagon, but am wanting to source some of the parts via part number directly from japan -- thought it might help to post how I'm organizing my information..

Hope you find it useful

Here's the spreadsheet I devised for the 4pots, extracted from the websites I posted earlier in this thread:


EDITED FEB-07-2005:
EDIT: "4POT PAD KIT, 26296FA100" is indeed the correct part # See notes in this reply about contents.

UPDATED: FEB-07-2005
-- CONFIRMED FRONT BRAKE PAD KIT IS PART # 26296FA100 and contains all the following bits:

-- 26244FA000 4POT SPACER A x 2
-- 26244FA010 4POT SPACER B x 2
-- 26232FA010 4POT PIN CLIP x 2
-- 26233FA000 4POT BRAKE SHIM A x 4
-- 26233FA010 4POT BRAKE SHIM B x 4
-- ?? 4POT BRAKE PAD x 4


IT DID NOT INCLUDE:

-- 26232FA020 4POT CROSS SPRING x 2
-- 26228FA000 4POT BRAKE RETAINING PIN x 4
(which you must order separately)


Here's a pic of the 4POT bits:

With the exception of a brake pad (it is stacked in the picture) this is exactly what you need to fully populate ONE 4POT caliper.
So you will need everything in the picture X 2 for a pair of calipers (again, assume the brake pad shown in the pic is "stacked x 2")

The rough "geographical map" of parts as shown in the pic is:

.....................(SHIM_A x 2)..........(SHIM_B x 2)

....(CROSS SPRING)..(PIN_CLIP)............(RETAINING_PIN X 2)
................................................(B RAKE_PAD X 2 STACKED ON EACH OTHER)
.............................................(SPAC ER_B)...........................................(S PACER_A)

.....................(ANTI_SQUEAL_GREASE)

IMPORTANT: Note that the 4POT brake shims
are indeed DIRECTIONAL as per the official JDM 4POT instructions
I received from SOJ:



I found installing this way -- I get silent, dependable, smooth, non-squeak/squeal operation whilst braking to a stop in the forward direction, and only a "slight squeak/squeal" going backwards. (It's not often that you brake that hard going backwards anyways). I figure if you got it the other way around -- the frontwards braking direction could be quite squeaky/squealy and could become VERY ANNOYING over time

-- ONE LAST THING ...
Make sure the 4POT calipers are installed with bleeder screws oriented
towards the TOP of each caliper or else the system will be VERY DIFFICULT
TO BLEED PROPERLY.

Last edited by Dendrobium; 02-07-2005 at 11:54 AM.
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Old 09-07-2004, 03:23 AM   #8
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And here's the same done for the 2pots (which admittedly are much more involved -- the key as people have found out is the backing plates of the IMPREZA NB-R)


EDITED FEB-07-2005:
EDIT: "2POT PAD KIT, 26696FA000" is indeed the correct part # See notes in this reply about contents.
EDIT: "SHIM A, #26635FA010" was slightly incorrect, correct part # is: "SHIM A, #26633FA000"
EDIT: "SHIM B, #26633FA000" was slightly incorrect, correct part # is: "SHIM B, #26633FA010"
EDIT: "OPTIONAL REAR 4POT BRAKE PARTS" should read "OPTIONAL REAR 2POT BRAKE PARTS"
EDIT: "OIL SEAL, REAR AXLE, 28015AA090" is indeed the correct part #.
EDIT: "REAR AXLE NUT, 2804AA000" is indeed the correct part # for WRX IMPREZA's. "REAR AXLE NUT, 902170044" seems to be more for LEGACY's. See notes in this reply for details.
EDIT: "HUB NUT, 90100074" is for LEGACY's BACKING_PLATE-to-HUB attachment. "HUB NUT, 901120036" is for R160 WRX's BACKING_PLATE-to-HUB attachement. See notes in this reply for details.

UPDATED: FEB-07-2005

1. CONFIRMED REAR BRAKE ROTOR DISC for R160-equipped WRX's is:
PART # 26700AE030

2. Here's a pic of ALL the bits that I used for my 2POT REAR SWAP:


Here's a close-up detail of all the OIL SEALS/etc. that you will need to swap the rear bearings
(ie. it is not recommended to re-use the oil seals)
Note the correct oil seal for IMPREZA R160 WRX's is PART #28015AA050 as I found out not PART #28015AA090)
Also, note that you will need everything in the below picture PER REAR BEARING SWAPPED
(so multiply everything x 2 for a pair of REAR BEARINGS)


3. CONFIRMED REAR AXLE NUT for IMPREZA WRX's is:
28044AA000 REAR AXLE NUT is for IMPREZA WRX's
902170044 REAR AXLE NUT looks like it is for LEGACY's
28044AA000 REAR AXLE NUT (PIC)

If you look closely at how the hub nut is "crimped" you'll understand why you shouldn't re-use it:



4. 2POT REAR PIN-CLIP Installation
-- Here's how I put the 2POT pin-clips go on -- took awhile to figure out -- but this seemed right -- (please let me know if it is wrong! )


5. 2POT REAR CALIPER Bolts and BACKING PLATE bolts
-- I recommend picking up a total of 12 of:
901120036 BOLT ASSY (bolt + spring lock washer) PIC

Here's why:
2 for LH rear 2POT caliper (as per STi GrpN recommendation*)
2 for RH rear 2POT caliper (as per STi GrpN recommendation*)
* on website: http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/e/GRN/tec_info/1.html

...AND (I found this out while I did the install)
4 for LH backing plate-to-hub attachment (better to use new bolts here)
4 for LH backing plate-to-hub attachment (better to use new bolts here)
================================================== ====
for a total of 12.

(you may want to pick up a few extra as well since this seems a common bolt)

6. CONFIRMED 2POT REAR PAD KIT PART # is:
26696FA000 2POT REAR PAD KIT


AFAIK, it should contain all of the following:

-- 26632FA000 2POT PIN CLIP x 2
-- 26633FA000 SHIM A x 4 (note prev #26635FA010 was slightly incorrect)
-- 26633FA010 SHIM B x 4 (note prev #26633FA000 was slightly incorrect)
-- 26632FA020 2POT GUIDE PLATE x 4
-- ?? 2POT REAR PAD x 4


I'm pretty sure that

-- 26628FA000 2POT BRAKE RETAINING PINS x 4
-- 26632FA010 2POT CROSS SPRING x 2

need to be ordered separately from the 2POT rear brake pad kit.



7. MISCELLANEOUS NOTES

-- Rear "hub carrier" was completely removed to hydraulically press out the old bearings, and put in the new ones:
REAR HUB CARRIER REMOVED (pic)

-- Make sure to re-use the "grommet" that covers the "parking brake adjustment port" from your original backing plates.


-- Note the difference between the original backing plate (LEFT) and the new 2POT backing plate (RIGHT),
both diameter-wise, and caliper mounting holes-wise
(if you look closely, you'll notice that I technically didn't do a correct LHS-WITH-LHS or RHS-WITH-RHS comparison though -- sorry!)



-- ONE LAST THING ...
Make sure the 2POT calipers are installed with the bleeder screws oriented
towards the TOP of each caliper or else the system will be VERY DIFFICULT
TO BLEED PROPERLY.

Last edited by Dendrobium; 02-07-2005 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 09-07-2004, 03:26 AM   #9
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Here's a pic of the 4pot / 2pot calipers IRL:


And finally, to dispel the mystery behind it, here's an abbreviated pictorial sequence of exactly what is meant by "pressing out the hubs" to "facilitate changing of the backing plates". I hope to do this soon -- but credit for the pics goes to the japanese websites I posted earlier


cheers!

UPDATED: FEB-07-2005
(some helpful hints from this thread: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707023 for full details)
Quote:
Originally Posted by from another thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by SJwrx
Lessons Learned from STi 2-pot rear swap (onto MY02 WRX)

*The backing plate bolts are NOT on the back of the hub, you must press off the wheel stud assembly to get to them (theres no use in doing it in advance and rounding them off in the process).

Rich
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dendrobium
Sorry if my picture was misleading -- the picture shown is from a japanese website where they did the 2pot swap on a legacy (which does have the backing plates attached via 4 accessible bolts) The wrx one's are only accessible after the wheel stud assembly is removed as SJwrx said.

-- Dendrobium
Quote:
Originally Posted by subysouth
Excellent info D. Just to clarify a little on the above statement, the WRX and the pictured Legacy setup are basically identical AFAIK, meaning you could get to these bolts on the WRX to by dismantling the parking brake internals just like on the Legacy. Getting the bolts loose on both of these cars isnt the larger problem, its getting the hub out of the way to swap the plates(hole in the backing plates wont fit over hub assembly.) Meaning you can get the plates loose on both cars but without the hub out of the way the plates arent coming off.

ss
Quote:
Originally Posted by SJwrx
Lessons Learned from STi 2-pot rear swap (onto MY02 WRX)

*The backing plate bolts are NOT on the back of the hub, you must press off the wheel stud assembly to get to them (theres no use in doing it in advance and rounding them off in the process).

*Gear puller not neccessary (will not work). You need to use a slide hammer to 'pull' the rear hubs off. (I took off the knuckles and took them to Subi to have them pulled, 15 mins)

*When taking off the parking brake components, DO NOT twist the adjustment screws placed at the bottom of the assemblies (gold color star)

*A spring puller is your newest friend when doing the parking brake (used a motocross pipe spring puller worked great!)

*Connect the brake lines (after you figure out the way is should go) to the caliper before threading it into the hardline on the chasis.

Now that I have done it, figured everything out the swap could be done within 3-4 hours. It toook me about 8 to figure everything out.

Rich

Last edited by Dendrobium; 02-07-2005 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 09-07-2004, 05:24 AM   #10
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I like the idea of going with factory equipment,would a bbk from wilwood or stoptech be more cost effective and have more stopping power?
Thanks for all the helpful info and research though!

Last edited by socrates42; 09-07-2004 at 05:41 AM.
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Old 09-07-2004, 09:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dendrobium
Here's a pic of the 4pot / 2pot calipers IRL:
Those are hott!
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Old 10-30-2004, 06:25 PM   #12
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This post is almost 2 months old with out an update!

Dendrobium...what's the scoop?
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Old 12-14-2004, 01:06 PM   #13
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Had to bump this for more info... what type of puller is shown in that 4th pic of them removing the hub?

I didn't think it was an option to use any hand tools to remove those.

-Mike.
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Old 12-14-2004, 06:25 PM   #14
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It's a two jaw puller

here's a better pic
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/...6/DCP_3163.JPG

You should be able to find them at your local parts store.

I'm impressed the guy pressed out the hubs with just that little puller thing.
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:10 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy777
It's a two jaw puller

here's a better pic
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/...6/DCP_3163.JPG

You should be able to find them at your local parts store.

I'm impressed the guy pressed out the hubs with just that little puller thing.
I understand how he got the hubs out but how in the heck did he get them back in?

-Mike.
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:33 PM   #16
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He had to have used some sort of press. I suppose a bench vice might work, but you'd be better off using a press of some sorts.
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Old 12-17-2004, 02:57 PM   #17
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Gary S said he used a pretty cheap press from harbor freight to do all of his wheel bearing swaps- I don't know how cheap is cheap to Gary?

Big Sky<----------- has two pots to put on, doesn't want to pay for labor (because he's cheap )
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Old 12-17-2004, 03:27 PM   #18
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a friend of mine had a press from harbour freight. it was the $100 one. fairly easy to swap out the plates.
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Old 12-17-2004, 04:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy777
It's a two jaw puller

here's a better pic
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/...6/DCP_3163.JPG

You should be able to find them at your local parts store.

I'm impressed the guy pressed out the hubs with just that little puller thing.
Look closer, the one being used to pull the hub is a three jaw puller. The three jaw would be less likely to tilt the hub on the way out.
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Old 12-17-2004, 07:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarDogChampion
a friend of mine had a press from harbour freight. it was the $100 one. fairly easy to swap out the plates.
[/IMG]
I'm assuming you must have pulled the knuckles off, did you have anything "special" to press the hub in.

I looked through their pics and they showed doing it w/ the knuckle still on- it appears they had something that fit just right and hammered the hub back on. This saves disconnecting the trailing and lateral lniks, but wondering how effective it is (ie not damaging anything)?

Big Sky
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Old 12-17-2004, 08:18 PM   #21
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yes i pulled the hub off. to press the hub in i just used a impact socket between the press and the hub to press it in.. worked fine..
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarDogChampion
yes i pulled the hub off. to press the hub in i just used a impact socket between the press and the hub to press it in.. worked fine..
Thanks
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Old 01-12-2005, 01:31 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy777
It's a two jaw puller

here's a better pic
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/...6/DCP_3163.JPG

You should be able to find them at your local parts store.

I'm impressed the guy pressed out the hubs with just that little puller thing.
My axles just kept on sinking into the rear diff housing... so I took off the whole knuckle and am having Subaru press them out.

Did I make a wrong turn somewhere?

Rich
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Old 01-12-2005, 02:24 PM   #24
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I want those 2pot brakes (and all auxiliaries) for my MY00 Impreza Turbo wich has now the sliding 1pot calipers at the rear.
Where can I order a set (for Belgium...)

Greets

Creepy
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Old 01-12-2005, 09:28 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJwrx
My axles just kept on sinking into the rear diff housing... so I took off the whole knuckle and am having Subaru press them out.

Did I make a wrong turn somewhere?

Rich
I think you went with the right move. Getting the hub off with just a jaw puller, two or three is a little ridiculous.
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