Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Sunday October 6, 2024
Home Forums Images WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo)

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-01-2004, 03:36 PM   #1
855m0n0
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 33571
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle:
1993 LS1 FD3S RX7
Red

Cool stage 4 installation: how I did it/what I think of it

Last weekend I installed a VF-22 turbo, removed/gutted/resinstalled up-pipe, removed/modded/reisntalled injectors, installed fuel pump (walbro), and tuned car with UTEC, laptop, and LM-1.
I used the installation instructions from scoobymods.com to do the install being that I had never done any of this before.

This was the order that I did things in along with the time it takes
I did spray liquid wrench the night before the install on everything.
1. remove intercooler (2 minutes)
2. remove intercooler support bracket (< 1 minute)
3. unbolt turbo from up-pipe (3 bolts) I used 2 extentions and one of those free moving extentions that allows you to work from odd angles. (2-3 minutes)
4. Unbolt turbo from downpipe. I think there were 5 bolts. 3 you can easily do from top other 2 from bottom. That free moving extention is a life saver here. (5 minutes)
5. remove oil line, be carefull not to lose washers. Remove cooant lines. Pull out turbo. (4 minutes)
From opening hood to getting turbo out was about 15 minutes total.
Now for the up pipe. Everyone said this was a PITA, but I found it super easy.
1.Use O2 sensor socket (autozone sells them) and remove o2 sensor. (2 minutes)
2. remove plastic cover under car and heat sheild from part of header that mounts to up pipe. (5 minutes)
3. up bolt 3 bolts on bottom of up pipe (3 minutes)
4. un clip sensor wire from car and pull up pipe out of car. (<1 minute)
there you have it. Removal of up pipe in under 10 minutes. Total time from start of project including a drink of water is about 30 minutes. I did not jack up my engine or any of that crap that people have talked about. I don't under stand what all the fuss is about. Maybe it is that people are doing it with out removing the turbo. It may be hard then. But, removing the turbo is a joke. anyway.
Gutting up pipe
OK this sucks. I used the instructions from scoobymods.com. It took about 2 hours to get it to a level of rattlelessness (not a real word, but you get the point) before I would let it pass exhaust to my turbo.

Injector removal. I removed the injectors with the turbo out. It was easy too. The Green brackets of death were not that hard to remove. I was so worried that I wouldn't be able to do it that I almost paid someone else to do it. Anyway.
1. Remove intake. 3 minutes.
2. Remove the passenger site GBOD. This one sucked more than the other one. It took about 8 minutes or so to get out.
3. remove washer fluid resivoir. 2 minutes or so.
4. remove driver side GBOD (this one is super easy). Took about 3 minutes to do.
5. remove 2 bolts holding down fuel rail. (<1 minute)
6. have friend pull on rail while you get injectors out. Make sure to remove signal wires from injector. That was harder for me to do with my fat fingers than to get the injector out. (3 minutes per side)
There you have it. 4 injectors out of the car in about 20 minutes. Maybe the green brackets are really hard to do with the turbo in. I don't know. Wasnt that bad.

Modify injectors
Not very hard. I used a dremel with a small cutting wheel and some needle nose to remove once it was gone. You only need to but about 1mm down all the way around on the weld line to get it to come off. I f-ked that up on one. It still works, but it doesnt look as nice as the others.
It took about 15 minutes to do this. I could do it now in less than 10 now that I know what to do.

Reinstall
I cut the line of the driver side GBOD so that I did not have to reinstall the bracket.
1. put new O rings on injectors. I did not do this 1st time and they leaked...a lot. I used ones from Autozone that were made for injectors (OK for gas. Most O rings are not) 3 minutes
2. have friend hold fuel rail while you put injectors back in. Reconnect signal wire. Bolt fuel rail down. (5 minutes per side)
3. reinstall washer fluid res. and intake stuff (5 minutes or so)
4. smile becuase you just reinstalled your injectors in about 18 minutes and did not contimplate suicide or having your friend "steel" your car.
5. put new up pipe gasket on up pipe (10 seconds) ( i didnt do this and had ugly leak, but I learned that I can get a turbo off, put on up pipe gasket and reinstall said turbo in about 35 minutes becuase of it, which I guess was worth it. But, not really.)
6. attach turbo to up pipe. There are only 3 bolts. It was kind of a bitch to get the turbo get into the intake pipe. And attaching the oil line on the bottom sucked a little. It took a good 6 or so minutes to do this. It is easier to do with someone helping you. I did it once alone and once with my buddy helping. The latter is MUCH cooler.
7. Attach coolant lines and oil line. the top one will be too short if you get a VF-22 like I did. The bottom one needed major clamping down to get it to not leek. I had to get pipe clamps for it and throw away the stock clamps. Mine leeked the 1st time I did it. The second time after figuring that out it only took about 10 minutes.
8. Attach down pipe. Use a NEW gasket becuase leaks suck. 5 minutes.
9. Reinstall intercooler. I always have trouble getting the Y pipe thing attached. It is MUCH easier to do with a friend helping. (10 minutes)
10. smile you just reinsalled a turbo and up pipe in about 26 minutes.

Walbro fuel pump.
1. remove fuel pump cover in trunk on right side. (1 minute)
2. remove cover of fuel pump. Remove lines. Don't let any thing fall into gas tank. That would be really dumb. (5 minutes)
3. pull out fuel pump assembly. Walk to work bench. Remove Walbro from box. Follow instructions on how to setup. Remove stock fuel pump. Reinstall walbro just like stock one was setup. (15 minutes)
4. Reinstall is reverse of install (10 minutes)
This takes about 30 minutes.

What I learned from all of this.
1. always replace gaskets
2. always replace O rings
3. don't believe the hype about stuff being all that hard. I had not ever done any of this before and I dont have any special tools.
4. This could very easily be done in an afternoon in your garage.

OK, now the fun stuff.

Tuning.
I drove around for 1 week with the TXS map for a VF-34 stage 4 with TXS TMIC on a UTEC 4.3(c) with injectors scaled to 740cc.
This maps really sucked for this setup. Not saying anything about TXS or their maps. Just giving an assesment of this map for my setup. Keep in mind that this map is for a different turbo, aftermarket intercooler and STI injectors. Anyway.
Tuning was fairly easy. We just hooked up LM1 to rear O2 sensor and watched data log from UTEC.
1st run. AFR was between 8.5:1 and 9.0:!. Woah!! That is super rich.
removed fuel by 1 until AFR was where I wanted it.
Added boost untill boost hit 18.5 PSI
This took about 2 hours. I didn't mess with the ignition at all (I am a chicken). I have 0 knock and the car pulls really hard. The AFR never goes leaner than I want it to under boost. BTW, I have never tuned a car before. I just followed the UTEC manual instructions, the UTEC quick user guide on WRXhackers.com and the LM-1 user manual.

Since I had no dyno, but I did have a friend that with a 350whp (have dyno chart for that one) mid 12 second 240SX I just did pulls next to him from about 10mph to 65 mph. My car was a tiny bit faster.

Now that I have had this all working for a bit here are some impressions.
VF-22 on UTEC log shows positive manifold pressure starting to happen at about 2500 rpm. (.8 psi, but it is a positive number)
I hit 18-19psi at about 4500 rpms on the logger.
I got these numbers by going to WOT at 1500 rpms in 2nd gear on a flat road and logging it. I couldnt do it 4th gear since that would put me in triple digit speeds and in jail.
It is a bit more laggy then the stock turbo (granted I had stock turbo with cat in up pipe) but it is far from what some might have you think. I have never been in a VF-30 or VF-34 turbo car but it spools faster than my friends 240SX with SR engine and GT25R turbo with FMIC and that is OK with me.
My gas mileage when not boosting everwhere (rare) is about the same as stock. The car idles at about 500-600 rpm and stays at 14.7:1 on both the LM-1 and on the UTEC logger with the modded injectors.


Overall I was ready to sell my car and get a something better (faster)before I did these mods. I almost didnt since I hear all the whining about how hard it is to do on the forums and I didnt want to pay to have someone else do it. Since I already had UTEC and 1 cat 3" custom turbo back the entire adventure only cost me $525 for new VF-22 w/gaskets (gruppe-s.com rocks btw), $90.00 for fuel pump, and $30.00 in pipe clamps, coolant, O rings and other crap. So $645.00 and I got a car that doesnt suck any more and runs like a scalded dog.

Now all i have to do is avoid the cops while under boost.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
855m0n0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 11-01-2004, 04:05 PM   #2
InfamousDX
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 25413
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: North NJ
Default

Good write-up!! From all that, I say that the most important thing to take away is take your time and PLEASE always use new hardware in regard to gaskets and especially injector o-rings. We found that out the hard way on my car, as I noticed you did too.

Enjoy the newfound power
InfamousDX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 07:09 PM   #3
MomoWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 36823
Join Date: May 2003
Location: West Boca, FL/WPB at Northwood
Vehicle:
03 MBP WRX Sold :(
93.5 Single Supra :)

Default

wow, very nice. Now go get it dyno'd
MomoWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 07:19 PM   #4
855m0n0
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 33571
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle:
1993 LS1 FD3S RX7
Red

Default

I am saving up for a new intercooler. Not sure if going TMIC or FMIC. Oh, the decisions. After that I am going to "street tune" it again to get it close then go to the shop and get it perfect and get a cool peice of paper that I can show off to all my friends with.
855m0n0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 07:26 PM   #5
RexRonald
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 70823
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: aurora, OH
Vehicle:
2002 2.0l FP18g
295whp / 265wtq @ 19psi

Default gaskets?

I agree swap for new gaskets when working on engine parts (metal to metal)... but quite honestly, there is zero need to replace the injector gaskets when swapping fuel injectors (unless they're already ripped/dried/cracked), i've had mine in and out several times with no problems, no leaks, always used same gaskets.... just take a little time and care while working with this area and you'll have no probs... use a very sparing amount of vaseline on the gaskets, they'll seal just fine.

Metal to metal gaskets need to be replaced with each change usually because the gaskets in between the metal parts are usually of a 'crush' type and they take the shape of the space inbetween the metal parts, unlike the flexible fuel injector gaskets, exhaust gaskets don't rebound to their original shape when removed... but now i'm only stating the obvious...

since money is usually a finite variable in the upgrades we do, don't go wasting it when you don't need to.
RexRonald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 08:06 PM   #6
greenguy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 221
Join Date: Sep 1999
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: az.
Vehicle:
15 WRX CBS
2014 Crosstrek

Default

Thanks for the write up! It will be confidence insirering for those that are a bit week in the knees to wrench on there own rides.
Good job!
greenguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 08:13 PM   #7
imprezavness
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 59563
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Miami
Vehicle:
2004 white WRX
confused

Default

gruppe-s rocks sometimes, other times they take 4 ever to ship stuff
imprezavness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 08:13 PM   #8
banzai
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 63926
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Sun City KS.
Vehicle:
Axis /RAW 2.2 Closed
deck EJ 20G stroker

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RexRonald
there is zero need to replace the injector gaskets when swapping fuel injectors (unless they're already ripped/dried/cracked),.
i don't agree with ^^ this guy ^^


do it anyway. it's cheap insurance.

-B
banzai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 08:47 PM   #9
855m0n0
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 33571
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle:
1993 LS1 FD3S RX7
Red

Default

I had to go to the 24/7 autostore at 1 am to get those gaskets becuase I didnt think I would have to get new ones. Mine were not torn or anything, they just would not seal.
I spent more in gas (3 gallons at 2.10) and time ($3/hour illegal immigrant wage, I would rather be sleeping than going to autozone at 2am) getting those o rings then the purchase price of the rings.
Plus, taking the injectors out a 2nd time at 2:30 am sucks. I would spend the money and save the time. But, then again, if you can save 10 bucks and it works then rock on..
855m0n0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 08:47 PM   #10
D_Block
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 64127
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: www.niketalk.com
Vehicle:
2001 PY ITR, 2012 X5
on order

Default

Cool. Thanks for the post! It may come in handy in the next few weeks!
D_Block is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 08:54 PM   #11
InfamousDX
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 25413
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: North NJ
Default

Using new o-rings IS definitely CHEAP insurance. They cost like $1 each at the dealer and that's overpriced. I'd spend it for peace of mind ya know?
InfamousDX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 08:59 PM   #12
imprezavness
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 59563
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Miami
Vehicle:
2004 white WRX
confused

Default

your one hell of a weekend mechanic dude, mad props
imprezavness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2004, 11:18 PM   #13
Bonjo2
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 56521
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Cheyenne WY
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
Blue

Default

Awesome job. I'm not sure I'd go as far as you with regard modifying the injectors with a dremel and then not flow testing them, but agree with most of your times. I had ailments with the atermarket up-pipe's studs, injector o-rings, injector gaskets.

Agree-liquid wrench is a lifesaver.

Let me know when your tranny goes, so I can read your tranny build write-up before I attempt it on my own.
Bonjo2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 01:08 AM   #14
855m0n0
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 33571
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle:
1993 LS1 FD3S RX7
Red

Default

I hope my tranny lasts a while. . . I am saving for RA gear set though. Not sure if I will brave that one or not.
855m0n0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 01:41 AM   #15
imprezive one
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16906
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cleveland to Columbus
Vehicle:
2k3 wrx wagon
PSM

Default

good god man, you're a busy one. nice!
imprezive one is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 08:10 AM   #16
pezman04wrx
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 66558
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Default

Damn man ... You make it sound so easy I want to do it this weekend ... ... Now all I need is some motovation and, oh yeah ... money ... Well, can't win them all ... Great write up though ... BTW, did you flow test your modded injectors? I'm guessing you didn't, but I've heard that if you know what they're actually flowing you can tune for it specifically and it will help out alot ...
pezman04wrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 08:24 AM   #17
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

Quote:
This was the order that I did things in along with the time it takes
I did spray liquid wrench the night before the install on everything.
1. remove intercooler (2 minutes)
2. remove intercooler support bracket (< 1 minute)
3. unbolt turbo from up-pipe (3 bolts) I used 2 extentions and one of those free moving extentions that allows you to work from odd angles. (2-3 minutes)
4. Unbolt turbo from downpipe. I think there were 5 bolts. 3 you can easily do from top other 2 from bottom. That free moving extention is a life saver here. (5 minutes)
5. remove oil line, be carefull not to lose washers. Remove cooant lines. Pull out turbo. (4 minutes)
From opening hood to getting turbo out was about 15 minutes total.
Now for the up pipe. Everyone said this was a PITA, but I found it super easy.
1.Use O2 sensor socket (autozone sells them) and remove o2 sensor. (2 minutes)
2. remove plastic cover under car and heat sheild from part of header that mounts to up pipe. (5 minutes)
3. up bolt 3 bolts on bottom of up pipe (3 minutes)
4. un clip sensor wire from car and pull up pipe out of car. (<1 minute)
there you have it. Removal of up pipe in under 10 minutes. Total time from start of project including a drink of water is about 30 minutes. I did not jack up my engine or any of that crap that people have talked about. I don't under stand what all the fuss is about. Maybe it is that people are doing it with out removing the turbo. It may be hard then. But, removing the turbo is a joke. anyway.
sorry man, but i'm calling bs on your "times."

a turbo and up pipe out in 25 minutes? your first time doing it?



ken
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 08:59 AM   #18
Soon2Bgreat
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 2258
Join Date: Sep 2000
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Irvington, New York, USA
Vehicle:
1999 gc8 ver7 6mt
GT35R 504.7whp;)

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000
sorry man, but i'm calling bs on your "times."

a turbo and up pipe out in 25 minutes? your first time doing it?



ken
I was thinking that too, and it's not just the turbo and upipe that was fast.
Soon2Bgreat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 09:45 AM   #19
855m0n0
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 33571
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle:
1993 LS1 FD3S RX7
Red

Default

you can call bs all you want. It doesnt change the fact that it did not take me long to do.
After you get the turbo out. There are only 3 bolts on the bottom of the up pipe and the front O2 sensor. With the liquid wrench sitting on there all night and a breaker bar it only takes a couple of minutes to get those three bolts off. They are all very easy to get at. You can pull the up pipe from the top of the car (engine bay). I didnt lift the engine or anything like that (the installation stuff I downloaded said I had to do that for some reason). I just reached in and pulled it out. There isn't much to it. I really don't know what all of the fuss is about.

I do have a turbo back and the stock heat sheild was never put back in. So there was no heat sheild stuff up top to deal with. Maybe that would have taken a lot of time. Maybe that is what all the hype about this thining being a PITA is about. The people that did my exhaust took that out so I don't know.
855m0n0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 04:22 PM   #20
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

if you don't take out the turbo, the up pipe must be removed from below. that's a big difference in difficulty.

i wanted to ask you how you got the turbo out without removing the downpipe from the car? all the car's i've worked on required this step.

there are TWO bolts at the bottom of the up pipe, and 5 bolts from up pipe to turbo. and you can't get the up pipe bolts off without getting the downpipe out of the way, and if you don't get the up pipe bolts off then the turbo doesn't come out.

so do you have any pointers you can throw my way for next time? i'd love to be as fast as you claim to be.

ken
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 04:38 PM   #21
WHAT
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 19399
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Lansdale
Vehicle:
2013 LRPE M3/Touareg
Orange/Black

Default

I think that getting the uppipe out in that amount of time is realistic, if you have the turbo already out. I had mine out in about 15min.

But when you get tuned I hope you are not thinking that you are going to put down similar numbers to your friend. You will not have 350whp.
WHAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 09:09 PM   #22
855m0n0
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 33571
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle:
1993 LS1 FD3S RX7
Red

Default

I know I wont have 350whp. Really I dont care how much horse power it makes as long as I "think" it is fast.

Anyway.


My exhaust is custom, so it may not be exactly same for you, but basically I unbolted the down pipe and pulled it out of the way from under the car. I don't know if you can move a stock on that far or not but with my exhaust I was able to move it out of the way pretty easily. When I had my friend helping me the 1st time he guided the divorsed waste gate wall (it has an APS dump pipe) away from the turbo. The 2nd time I did it alone I just pulled back on it enough from under the car to do it.
855m0n0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2004, 09:58 PM   #23
timman_24
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 58722
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Benton, IL
Default

I would also say those times are a little idealistic. I just got doing the uppipe from the bottom. Maybe the liquid wrench onvernight helps, but some of those bolts can be a bitch. Also about the hoses that go to the turbo... Don't you have to flush the coolant or pinch the lines? The lines are kinda hard to get at.

Props to you though. I thought the uppipe was easier to do then most people say, too bad I had a coolant leak after words . Stupid coolant line into the turbo got pushed around...
timman_24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2004, 01:40 AM   #24
Gethin
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 2998
Join Date: Nov 2000
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: BC
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
WRB

Default

This isn't a race, 855 was stating the time it took *HIM* to do it hoping his tips would help someone else......sheesh!
Gethin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2004, 09:35 AM   #25
855m0n0
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 33571
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
Vehicle:
1993 LS1 FD3S RX7
Red

Default

timman_24 I pluged the lines to keep the coolant from running out. My friend has coolant line plugs that he got when his turbo on his 240 was out for a week. I did add coolant to the system when I was finished and made sure there was no air in the system. I forgot about that step.

Liquid Wrench is a life saver. I don't know how hard removing those bolts would be with out it. Exspcially since I drove my car up on to ramps to do it and there isn't a whole lot of room to get leverage. I just used a socket wrench with the appropriate socket on it put one foot on some part of the car that didn't look like it was going to move and pulled. It wasn't too bad. With out liquid wrench I usually end up breaking bolts so I always use it now.


I really only put the times there because after reading all of the negative posts on DIY installations of up pipes in and injectors I thought people would like to hear from someone would did it their 1st time using online instructions and how long it took. The vast majority of posts on things like the injector install are from people saying it took them hours to get the GBODs off. There is one that I read recently where the guy said it too 9 hours to do.

When I embarked on my turbo installation journey on Saturday I wondered if I would even have a car to drive on Monday. I just wanted to show people that this installation can be done in one afternoon and isnt necessarly as bad as poeple make it out to be as long as they replace O rings and gaskets the 1st time.
855m0n0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Lemme know what cha think of the sound of my stage 2 Super_HKS North West Impreza Club Forum -- NWIC 16 09-29-2007 10:14 PM
electronic exhaust cutout. what do you think of it? STEALTH-WRX Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 25 10-31-2002 05:32 PM
Who has the longest running TXS Stage 4, and how is it running? xfactor834 Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 9 10-16-2002 10:43 AM
Who owns blitz nur spec exhaust? what do u think of it? wReXeRw Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 12 07-20-2002 02:33 PM
This is my 1st post- here is my ride, tell me what you think of it 83cruiser Member's Car Gallery 10 07-02-2002 03:37 AM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:58 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission
Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.