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Old 11-10-2004, 02:38 PM   #1
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 54404
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Catharpin, VA
Default Timing belt change and crank seal with oil leak

Hey all. First off I have done a search and read up on many of the oil leak threads.
As was suggested in other threads I took off the timing belt covers to see where the oil is coming from.
The oil is definately not coming from the cam seals. I was able to check them well.
The center cover I only removed the bottom bolts to get a look in there.
It looks like it may be coming from the crank seal as far as I can tell but it is hard to see up there.
There is no oil on the belt so I am guessing I am somewhat safe from the oil affecting the belt.
My engine is a NA 2.2 with 82K on it.
I was planning to change the timing belt and I might as well fix the seal while I am in there.
My question is how involved is this and do I need a puller? I also hear I should change the water pump while I am in there. I was going to remove the radiator to make it easier to get at and I was planning to replace all the coolant hoses.
Anything else I should do while I have it all apart?

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Old 11-10-2004, 05:18 PM   #2
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 32846
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Elkton, VA
1998 Impreza L-SOLD
Arcadia Green

Post 1997 2.2 Timing Belt

2.2 Timing Belt Procedure
2.2 Engine
Check the above link out for pictures of the timing belt tensioner, oil pump, water pump, etc.
Before you do anything, rotate the crank, 22mm bolt I think, with a ratchet and line all three timing marks up. Make sure you mark the belt, the cam pulley's, and crank gear with a visible sharpie (silver) before removing the timing belt. One on each cam and one on the crank gear. When you pull the belt, the driver's side cam pulley will spin on you, have a buddy to hold it (17 mm socket & ratchet), even though the 2.2 is non-interference.

Replace the water pump and reseal the oil pump. I'd replace the little o-ring on the oil pump, too. The oil pump has several Phillip screws that could be working lose, thus, letting oil blow-by which is forcing pressure on the crank seal causing it to leak. I'd take the oil pump off, take the screws out, apply Loctite, and screw them back in as tight as you can get them by hand with a large grip screwdriver. RTV to reseal the oil pump, while I think you can also buy a gasket.

I left the radiator in and just cut a piece of cardboard to fit over it so I didn't damage the fins. However, you are draining the radiator if you're replacing the water pump so taken it completely out won't be much more trouble.

No, you shouldn't need a puller for anything. The crank gear should slide right off. If it doesn't, spray it with Brake cleaner or, secondly, PB Blaster, and try again. I helped a guy whose crank gear seized up and we had to take pry bars to get it off. Not fun, plus, it scores the oil pump a little bit.

The crank bolt will be a PITA. I like the "starter bump" method on 4EAT's, but read about this and use at your own discretion.

This topic has been covered heavily so more searching will yield you more knowledge. Help from a friend, even just an extra set of hands will help out big time. Label all the parts when you take them off to help in installation and don't confuse the idlers. Label the idlers and make note where they came off.

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