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06-14-2005, 11:18 AM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
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Join Date: Nov 2004
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Do it your self Tranny and Diff Fluid Change??
Quick technical tool question? I am about to change my tranny and rear diff fluid for mobil synthetic and I want to know what tool to use to get the rear diff drain plug out. I have an 04 WRX and I know the tranny has a weird sized tool the Torx T-70 which I bought but it doesn't look like the rear diff uses the same tool. So what tool does it use??
Thanks for the help
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06-14-2005, 12:00 PM | #2 |
Scooby Guru
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I've used a 1/2" rachet for the rear dif drain plugs. Fits almost perfect.
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06-14-2005, 12:49 PM | #3 |
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Sorry did you mean a half in drive ratchet or a 1/2 inch socket. Also when I look under the car it looks like the connector is a female attachement not a male?? Any thoughts??
Thanks |
06-14-2005, 12:49 PM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
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Same here, but I wrap the 1/2" drive with some mylar sheet that I have to avoid scratching up the plug (wow, I guess I never realized how crazy I am).
Now, do your research before dumping that Mobil 1 into the tranny. If you do put it in, don't say that I didn't warn you! |
06-14-2005, 12:52 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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06-14-2005, 12:53 PM | #6 |
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Thanks thats what I needed...
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06-14-2005, 01:54 PM | #7 |
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whoops.....yup I meant the male part of the 1/2" drive rachet or breaker bar.
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06-14-2005, 03:18 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
M1 should be OK in the rear diff, but as for the gearbox itself, a vast number of people have had syncro problems with M1 synthetic. I'd advise going with something else. |
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06-14-2005, 04:48 PM | #9 | |
Scooby Specialist
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Vehicle:2003 WRB WRX Wagon 5 doors > 4 doors |
Quote:
and your rear differential can pretty much take any fluid, it's an open viscous type, but I would be concerned about your choice in tranny fluid. I think the best brands imho would be Redline Lightweight shockproof, MT-90, or Uncle Scotty's cocktail. PS, you will need a long-neck funnel to put tranny fluid into the tranny, trust me, you will thank me for it. |
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06-14-2005, 07:32 PM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
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A long breaker bar is really useful for the rear-diff plugs. At first I used a 1/2"-drive, 18" long breaker bar - but it didn't budge (I was worried I was doing something wrong for a while). I then added another 18" or so worth of bar (my floor-jack handle happened to fit perfectly over the breaker bar) and applied steady pressure.
Make sure to loosen the top/fill bolt first (just to make sure you can get it out) before you loosen the bottom/drain bolt. Also, you'll either need a gear oil bottle you can squeeze or a fluid-pump to get the oil into the diff. Oh, and if you have a diff protector (even if you don't) you might want to make a paper funnel and hold it against the drain bolt as the oil is coming out, otherwise it'll just pour down the side of the diff and into the diff protector. |
06-14-2005, 07:33 PM | #11 |
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I second the notion that a cheap long necked flexible funnel is key. You can run the piping past the turbo and into the fill flute while resting the receiver between the intercooler and the firewall/AC lines.
I have had good luck through 50k with straight dino 75w90 in the tranny with 2 changes. wacky |
06-14-2005, 07:44 PM | #12 |
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breaker bar? bah...unsprung torque wrench is good enough for me.
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06-14-2005, 07:48 PM | #13 |
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Another tip for the rear diff:
If you've never taken those plugs out before, they've been torqued down by Godzilla at the factory and might be tricky to break loose. I put a jack under the rachet handle and broke the plugs free without even breaking a sweat. |
12-09-2005, 08:26 PM | #14 |
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Vehicle:1997 Legacy Outback |
I was trying to change my 80 wt. differential fluid today on my 97 Legecy Outback. When I tried to loosen the square plug bolt, I nearly got a hernia. I was using a 1/2" drive end on a probably an 18 in. breaker bar. I don't think it has ever been changed. God I hope someone didn't put lock tight on it. I finally got the lower drain plug loose but I could not break loose the fill plug. This is not a left hand thread by any chance. Any suggestions.
Also---my manual says "If your equipted with a limited slip differential, add friction modifier" Does anyone know if my car is equipted with this or how I can tell if it is. Also---When you change the auto-transaxle fluid is their a filter to change. My book just sounds like you remove the plug let it drain, put the plug back in and refill. |
12-09-2005, 09:14 PM | #15 |
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I ran m1 in the tranny and rear diff for awhile. For the rear diff it was fine but I didn't like 100% m1 in the tranny at all.
try "uncle scottys cocktail" or some variation of that. |
12-09-2005, 09:17 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
I recently swapped the gearbox & rear diff oil on my TS and replaced with cheapy NAPA (Valvoline) 80w-90 in the box ($2.19/qt) and Valvoline 75w90 Synthetic in the back. *shrug* |
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12-09-2005, 09:48 PM | #17 | |
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12-10-2005, 01:14 AM | #18 |
Scooby Newbie
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Location: Sierra's
Vehicle:1997 Legacy Outback |
After making a post asking how to break loose the differential plugs, I saw your technique using a jack to apply steady pressure. It worked perfect. It acually slightly raised the car before it broke loose. It was a real pain in the neck getting the oil into the hole with such tight quarters. I finally used an old oil can that you squeeze to squirt the oil. It took only a couple of minutes after using this method.
Do you know if the regular maintenance for a transmission oil change does not include changing any filters inside or outside the tranmission. This is on a 97 Subaru L. outback. |
12-10-2005, 12:21 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
Oh yeah, think twice before putting synthetic in your gear box. The Subaru synchros are finicky. |
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12-11-2005, 10:42 AM | #20 |
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just did mine recently. used a 1/2" like everyone has said already.
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02-28-2006, 03:04 PM | #21 |
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Does anyone know if there is a specific torque that the filler and drain plugs on the rear diff. should be torqued to?
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02-28-2006, 04:03 PM | #22 |
RIP 1/19/64 - 7/23/11
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Considering how tight they are from the factory, as tight as you can get them. (yes, there is a spec but I don't what it is)
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02-28-2006, 04:23 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
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02-28-2006, 04:35 PM | #24 |
Former Vendor
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Vehicle:2004 WRX Wagon 2013 BRZ Limited |
We run NEO Synthetic Gear oil in our shop cars and there are no problems with the synchros or diffs. We used to be a big fan of Motul Gear 300 until we tried this oil out. With NEO, we can shift into 1st gear during low speed rolls and it runs really quiet. I believe it primarily has to do with what was mixed into the oil to give the synchros problems. Some Synthetics are good and some are bad from what I have been hearing.
Regards, Gary |
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