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07-02-2005, 02:11 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 10040
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: AZ
Vehicle:2014 STI Hatchback WR Blue |
Brake and battery dash lights- I am at my witts end
I have searched and searched and tried just about everything I can think of. I just recently replaced the alternator with a new one from Napa, the car has the GFB crank and alternator pulleys on it. Last week I installed speedbleeders and completely flushed the brake system and put new fluid in it. I also put new belts on the car (I did a complete 60K service). After doing the service I started getting the brake and battery light coming on (both at the same time, it is like they are one light). It seems they only come on after the car has warmed up some. The car also has a new optima red top battery in it. I went ahead and changed the brake pads (front and rear) and I still have the lights. I tried hooking the car up to another one with jumper cables and I still had the lights. The only thing I can think of is that I either need to put the stock alternator pulley back on or the car doesn't like the brake fluid that I got, Valvoline SynPower synthetic (says it exceeds DOT 3 & 4).
This is my wifes car and I am only home from Iraq on 2 weeks leave. I only have a few more days to figure this out before I have to go back. Any other thoughts or ideas are most appreciated.
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07-02-2005, 02:50 PM | #2 |
Miss You Mom
Oct 1940 - Feb 2008 Super Moderator Member#: 809
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If you put the stock alternator back on and find the lights go away, I would guess the Napa alternator has no internal voltage regulator like the stock one- you need it . The brake light in that case would have nothing to do with the brakes, and it's not the fluid at any rate- there is a level sensor but not a "type" sensor. I used that fluid for many tens of thousands of miles with no issues.
Brian |
07-02-2005, 03:37 PM | #3 |
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Unfortunately the stock alternator was bad, I would think the lifetime Napa alternator would be just as good as the stock one. I may have to take it back...I will call them and find out what they think.
Edit... Just called Napa, the alternator does have an internal voltage regulator. They looked up the alternator on a computer to pull up the schematics of it and it definetly has the regulator. My next thought is to install the stock alternator pulley back on. I find it strange that the lights only come on after the car has warmed up... Last edited by aZiator; 07-02-2005 at 03:56 PM. |
07-02-2005, 04:37 PM | #4 | |
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07-02-2005, 06:16 PM | #5 |
Miss You Mom
Oct 1940 - Feb 2008 Super Moderator Member#: 809
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region:
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07-02-2005, 07:42 PM | #6 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 10040
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I have tried tightening the belt, tightened it up all the way. This evening I drove it after it was cool and kept the RPM up at all times and it didn't come on until after I let them drop to an idle at a stop light...I am going to take it out again when I dont need the air on and see if that changes anything. I am thinking I need to put the stock alternator pulley on but I am just not sure. we put almost 60K miles on the GFB pulley on the stock alternator with no problems.
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07-02-2005, 07:51 PM | #7 |
Trust no one
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Could be the replacement alternator is marginal in output with the underdrive pullies.
Check the voltage at the battery with a meter when the problem is happening. If you see a low reading (well below 13V, maybe below 12 if the lights are coming on) the alternator is not charging sufficiently. Raise the engine above idle and see if the voltage goes up. If it does put the stock pullies back on. Don't leave the belt overtightened, back it off and tighten it only to spec and no further. A too-tight belt will eventually damage the bearings in the alternator. |
07-02-2005, 10:26 PM | #8 |
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Mulder, that is my suspicion. With the AC off and very little load it charges just a little above 13V with the AC on at an idle it is right around 12.4V. I have already backed off the belt tension and tomorrow morning I will put on the stock alternator pulley. Hopefully that will do it.
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07-03-2005, 12:03 AM | #9 |
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You should see well above 13V above idle w/little or no load even with the UD pulleys. Your new alternator may be NG.
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07-03-2005, 12:39 AM | #10 |
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You need another alt.we use napa parts at the shop i work at and we get new ones that are bad.Its normal to get a bad one every now and then,so don't go cheap buy a good brand.The electric motor some part stores use to test an alt.doesn't spin them fast enough to check the output properly.I had a bad alt.on my truck and took it to Auto Zone and they spun it up and said it was good.I went back home and put it back on and it was charging again So within 3 revs of the engine it was discharging again,so back to Auto Zone and i told them it was bad and i needed an alt.and that fixed my problem.Good Luck
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07-03-2005, 02:19 AM | #11 |
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Vehicle:1996 Legacy L Sedan |
Battery and brake warning light = weak/dying/underdriving altenator. I just replaced my 134,000 mile altenator right after my battery and brake lights came on.
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07-03-2005, 03:04 PM | #12 |
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OK, I just switched back to the regular size stock pulley. Before doing so my multi-meter told me that the Voltage at the battery was 13.85V with no load and 12.44V with the AC on. The numbers at the alternator were similiar, 13.91V no load and 12.52 with load. I swapped the pulley, tightened everything up and started the car. The numbers were exactly the same with the stock pulley. When I revved the car up to about 2.5K RPM under load the alternator was putting out 14.85V. It wouls seem to me that the car is charging just fine...
Anyone else have any ideas? I cant think of anything else. |
07-03-2005, 03:35 PM | #13 |
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So what are the voltage readings when the problem is happening?
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07-03-2005, 03:59 PM | #14 |
Trust no one
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12.4 with the AC on is low if there are no other major accessories running. Was that at idle or above? Either way it's low.
It's also possible for the alternator (yes, even a "new" one) to have bad diodes which will make the output "dirty" and cause problems such as the warning lights coming on, even though the voltage will appear correct. The only way to test the alternator completely is with additional equipment that you don't have, although it still sounds to me like something is wrong with it. |
07-03-2005, 07:30 PM | #15 |
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The voltage readings don't change at all when the lights come on on the dash. The 12.4 with the AC on was at an idle with the AC and stereo on (nothing fancy there, no amps or anything). Should I pull the alternator off and have it tested? I am sure that when I do they will say it is fine.
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07-03-2005, 07:34 PM | #16 |
Trust no one
Moderator Member#: 11170
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NYC
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Rather than just take the alternator back to NAPA and have them tell you it's ok, it would be worth taking the car to a shop that can put the right test equipment on the system and evaluate it properly. If they find it's bad, you can then take their report back to the store and get a good one, or just get a refund and get one from Subaru that you know will work.
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07-06-2005, 09:03 PM | #17 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 10040
Join Date: Sep 2001
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Called Napa and they said to come and get another alternator. Replaced it today and the lights never came on again. I guess I just never figured that the new alternator was bad...
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07-06-2005, 09:07 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
Outstanding!!! Glad ya got it figured out. Keep your head down, over there |
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07-06-2005, 10:14 PM | #19 |
Trust no one
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Join Date: Oct 2001
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Just for the heck of it, go and take the voltage readings again under the same conditions. This will tell you for sure that things have improved.
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07-07-2005, 08:09 AM | #20 |
Scooby Newbie
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I took them, under load at an idle was almost 13V, around 12.8V. all of the numbers are a little higher. I am just wondering if maybe the Napa alternator didn't like being underdriven...I left the regular pulley on, not like my wife will die without the smaller pulley.
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