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07-03-2005, 04:33 PM | #1 |
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CEL P0483 - Ran diagnostics... need advice
Problem:
CEL P0483 came on after a long drive. Car does not overheat on a regular basis, it's only when it's idling after a long drive at high speeds. Diagnostics: Data-logged during a similar drive and both the coolant temp on my scanner, and my coolant temp in my car do not move. After idling for about 5 minutes, my fans came on and my temps begin to go down. Replaced: - Both fan relays - Water pump - Timing belt - Lower and Upper coolant hoses - Thermostat - Coolant w/ Subaru conditioner Performed: - Compression test on motor (tested 100% OK) - Coolant pressure test (100% OK) - Voltage test at different connectors (100% OK) I bought this car in March, and I planned on completing a EJ257 swap down the road. It only overheats during long drives at high speeds. My question is - Should I try to resolve this issue now (replacing the radiator/CTS as next step), or just continue to save for a swap and hope it doesn't blow? Since the compression test showed no signs of HG failure, I'm only to assume it's in the early stages (leaking, slight loss of fluid). I figured that if I used the subaru conditioner when changing the coolant, it would buy me enough time to complete the swap. Any help at all would be appreciated.
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Last edited by capaWRX; 07-03-2005 at 05:03 PM. |
07-05-2005, 09:07 AM | #2 |
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anybody care to help?
maybe just answer these questions for me: 1.) what is the highest temp I should see while idling? 2.) what is the recommended usage for the Subaru coolant conditioner? 3.) if you had the same issue, what would YOU replace next? |
07-05-2005, 10:53 AM | #3 |
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IF you decide to get a new radiator get an aftermarket one that will increase cooling for your swap. Depending on what one you get you might have to cut up some radiator hoses though so that works for the time being...thats what I would do atleast if after getting enough input decided that I wanted to replace it. As for the coolant conditioner its recommended usage is to include a bottle each time you flush and refill your coolant. I am not sure what temps you should be seeing though
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07-05-2005, 12:55 PM | #4 |
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the only reason i'm considering replacing the radiator next is the condition it was in when we removed it to replace the timing belt... there was leaves and all kinds of dirt caked into it.
if I was going to replace the radiator, would there be any way to use one that would work for both the NA and turbo applications? I've looked into it and all i found was to take a 2.5RS core with WRX endtanks. koyo is one of the companies that will sell you both, but I was looking for an easier approach. btw - thanks for the reply |
07-05-2005, 05:00 PM | #5 |
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damn it... I am searching out a reason for this problem right now....
Let me add to this list with the same problem... My symptoms... overheating at idle after some highway speed driving. The reserve bottle will overflow which caused me to originally think it was the radiator. Repairs so far: 1. Radiator pulled. Pressure tested. End tanks removed. Radiator cleaned. 2. Replaced waterpump (and timing belt). 3. Replaced thermostat. 4. Replaced upper and lower radiator hoses. 5. Used a Matco head gasket tester today and the HGs do not show to be blown. What kind of coolant did you use when you refilled the car? I used the Prestone yellow coolant. :subscribing to thread: |
07-05-2005, 05:13 PM | #6 |
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Looks like it's definitely the same issue I'm having, except you have a 2001 - I'd just hate to dump any more money into it unless it will be useful once I finally swap the motor. I'm just glad I didn't pay to replace the timing belt and did it myself. I would have died when the same problem came up again.
Just so you know, when it first started happening, I took it in for service. They flushed the radiator, pressurized the coolant system, and I'm guessing poured in some of the conditioner. I used the same coolant Subaru recommends... Hopefully someone will respond with a solution soon. |
07-05-2005, 05:19 PM | #7 |
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Yeah... so far all of the work has been done gratis by a friend that doe stoo much for me... he has even gotten me all of the parts at cost... so far this has cost me $180 in parts (including new belts for the accessories)... I was looking at a swap but decided against it just before this started... now I am set against it...
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07-05-2005, 05:20 PM | #8 |
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Oh yeah... I should add that I think the pre-02 RS hoods account for the ability to air cool... because after a hot run episode, the coolant will be down by as mch as 1/5 gallon... and I had to drive home from a 500 miles roadtrip with this problem as well... so that says something about the Suby engine...
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07-05-2005, 06:45 PM | #9 |
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After doing some reading about other people having this same type of problem, I am going to assume that there is AIR inside of my engine and that I just need to be vigilant in adding coolant everytime I drive the car for a couple of days to see if I can bleed the air out.
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07-05-2005, 06:50 PM | #10 |
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I haven't been documenting my coolant consumption too well, but I do know I have to add close to 1/4 gallon every month - depending on how far/long I drive for.
I wouldn't be so quick as to assume that is the case. If you had air, even just a little bit of it, in your system - you would overheat everytime you drove. The bigger the air bubble, the quicker and longer you'll overheat. In any case, let me know if this resolves your issue. |
07-05-2005, 06:54 PM | #11 |
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I am thinking that the bubble is just big enough to cause cavitation (I think this is the correct term) at the water pump once it works its way back down to the pump.
I am thinking this because one thing both cars has in common is a complete drain on the coolant by way of removing the waterpump... so we will see... My mechanice friend is working on the problem as well... this is just what I can do in the meantime to try to work up an answer... and yes... just for the record, my car will boil the coolant everytime the car is driven for any length of time... this was just confirmed by a short trip to Autozone... Does your reserve bottle look REALLY full but not quite? ther eis a hole on the side facing the radiator that allows for overflow... I am loosing some amount of coolant this way, although I am not sure how much of my consumption is accounted for by this. |
07-05-2005, 07:04 PM | #12 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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07-06-2005, 03:09 AM | #13 |
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possibly the same problem
It sounds like I may be having a similar problem. I have a 98 2.5 RS and about 3 weeks ago on a trip to Prescott from Phoenix, I hit the H mark for the temp. This was after going through about 3-4 lights(I hit every red one). I replaced the radiator cap, thinking that it blew(there was coolant on my battery and it came out through my driver side vent of the hood), but now I think the coolant may have boiled and sprayed out of the hose on top of the tank. It was fine all the way back to Phoenix until I reached another light, then the temp went up again. As long as I'm moving, the temp is fine, it's just idleing that does it.
That was about 3 weeks ago. Since then I have replaced the thermostat, added stop leak in case it could be a HG problem. Then wednesday I had the radiator flushed.(The guy said that stop leak would just make it worse). Afterward they said there is still restriction on the amount of water flowing through the radiator, so I'm thinking I just need to replace it. Luckily I just took some time off of work so I could prabably do it in my spare time. I'm also planning on doing a swap. Prabably not soon, but I want to get a radiator that could be used with a turbo/supercharger. Since i'm going to buy a new one anyways. I've made at least 3 more trips to and from Prescott since the initial time it ran hot, and there isn't a problem until I get to a stoplight. Is there a way to try and bleed any air that may be in the radiator? I just got a new CW CF hood and today I noticed what could be coolant in the same area on the driver's side vent, so there could be air in the system, although I figured that would have been checked when I got the radiator flushed. |
07-06-2005, 08:55 AM | #14 | |
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interesting - the issue you described is exactly like mine... I actually forgot that I had replaced the cap at first too, thinking the same thing as you.
I know there are systems that can pressurize the coolant system, but I usually use this method: Quote:
...and install this - http://www.crucialracing.com/products/coolkit.php i'll report back with what happens |
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07-06-2005, 12:08 PM | #15 |
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It all goes in line with my theory and possible problem....
I was thinking about this yesterday after a ruin into Downtown Dallas... my car is fine puttering around the city at lower (sub-45 mph) speeds... and my car is fine at highway speeds (over 50mph) until I stop (just like everyone else). I know as a fact that the RS motor will air cool itself perfectly fine at highway speeds (evenin 100 degree heat) as I had to run a 500 miles trip back home with my motor not too healthy. How long has every one been running that Subaru headgasket conditioner (roughly) before they experienced these problems? I made it ~25K miles almost dead on (headgaskets replace dat 95K miles and the car started haivng heat related issues around 120K although they were much less serious then). The problem got worse after replacing my water pump (and adding in a new bottle of Subaru conditioner). Stop leak will actually clog a radiator just as your mechanic says. There is speculation that the conditioner Subaru added is just a stop leak... and it looks a whole lot like stop leak if you have ever seen it. I propose a theory that this stop seal reacts with the coolant over time and heat and will actually clog the radiator. And I would venture to say that most people that went in for that recall are all coming close to the same amount of time/mileage since this and there will be more and more people with these same problems... Thoughts? reactions? And I don't think ther eis a bleeder in our cars... the service manuals do not make any mention of that method for bleeding the air off.... and there wasn't a bleeder on the water pump/thermo housing I jusst replaced... |
07-06-2005, 05:49 PM | #16 |
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I bought my car when there were about 90k miles on it. Now it's over 130k and this just started happening. I've had it about 3 years, and don't know if it was ever brought in for a recall, but I havn't had anything done by a subie dealer except having the IAC replaced, so I don't think my car has ever seen this "conditioner" subaru uses, and I put stop leak in after this problem started(which changed absolutely nothing). About the bleeder, someone said there's a screw on top of the radiator. I look at mine, and there's a phillips screwhead on the passenger side near the top hose, but I havn't tried anything w/ it yet.
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07-06-2005, 08:50 PM | #17 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
I am going to completely flush out the system using the prestone radiator flush kit and provided detergent... I'm hoping the crucial racing 160d t-stat works well with the new coolant hoses and redline water wetter. After this troubleshooting, I have no idea what to do next. |
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07-07-2005, 09:01 AM | #18 |
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The official word was just received on my car....
I tested it repeatedly the other day for the simplest and most often blamed problem for overheating a RS, but this morning I thought Iwould check ONE MORE TIME since everything else has been exhausted. It has now become clear that I am, once again, having head gaskets that are failing. I have access to a Matco headgasket testing tool (a dual chambered suction pump that you add a solution to that is sensitive to CO2 and will change from blue to yellow in its presence). I stuck it into the neck of my overflow bottle (which was bubbling up) and watched as the color went from blue to yellow. I never thought I would be excited to find out my headgaskets had failed, but having tried everything else, I was. I am going to retest after lunch (next time I will drive the cr) and my mechanic is already putting together a ticket to have them replaced (the labor won't be free for this )... I am excited because I can now move on. I just wonder why it will only do it after highway driving... ??? If you have access to a mechanic friend, ask him if he has a headgasket tester... and use it next time the fluid boils... |
07-07-2005, 09:56 AM | #19 |
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Did you use a compression tester? I would go that route before replacing anything that costly...
I think it's a little odd that you are experiencing HG failure again, but your overheating issue does seem a bit more extreme than the one DemonScooby and me are experiencing. I would take it back to the mechanic who originally replaced your old HG since they should last ~90k. I've heard that sometimes, in extreme cases, the head becomes warped and has to be machined in order to seat properly. If that is the case, you are looking at a free HG job IMO. Let us know what happens after the compression test, if you decide to go that route. |
07-07-2005, 11:30 AM | #20 |
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With the test used, there is not a need for a compression test... carbon dioxide can only enter the cooling system by either HG failure, cracked block or crack head... the latter of the two are doubtful but cannot really be diagnosed without pulling the engine apart any way...
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07-08-2005, 09:20 AM | #21 |
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interesting... not too familiar with that type of test - can it only be used while the car is overheating?
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07-08-2005, 03:19 PM | #22 |
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nope.... if the Hg is blown bad enough, it will show it just by starting the car... that is why I don't think my HG is too bad... it took me running the car hard to get it to test positive...
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07-16-2005, 06:02 AM | #23 |
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getting my radiator soaked and cleaned tomarrow, hopefully this will fix my problem.
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