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07-09-2005, 09:28 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 45737
Join Date: Oct 2003
Vehicle:2004 WRX STi Black/Gold |
what is p2138 and how do i fix it?
hey has anyone gotten code p2138?
P2138 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch “D”/”E” Voltage Rationality i dont really know where to start from to fix this cel code. if anyone can help it would be great thanks!
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07-09-2005, 10:57 PM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 61860
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Mid-Mo
Vehicle:2004 WRX STi Aspen White |
sounds like a fried switch; considering that this is a drive by wire throttle body I would probably check the pedal position switch maybe it got wet. If you know someone else with an STi in your area you could beg them to borrow the switch out of their car. Install it on yours and see if it remedies the problem. If so then just get a new one at the dealer.
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07-09-2005, 11:00 PM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 61860
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Mid-Mo
Vehicle:2004 WRX STi Aspen White |
p.s. that code means that the voltage coming from the switch is not within limits. i.e. if 1 volt equals 0% throttle and 3 volts equals 100% throttle yours might be sending none or maybe 4 volts. In any case it's probably a switch. But, do let me know when you get it figured out this is interesting.
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02-25-2007, 05:15 PM | #4 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 95840
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Pasco, WA
Vehicle:sold to a good bud awaiting next car |
bump,
what fixed your dtc? |
02-28-2010, 10:47 AM | #5 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 105437
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: SEIC
Vehicle:20xx STI OBP/ICM |
Quote:
I have zero mods, all stock, 2006 STI. On the highway coming home yesterday, doing about 65. The heater was on beast mode. Car went Limp mode, locked itself at 2000 RPMs on the engine and I had to stay in neutral to coast to the side of the road. CEL and a flashing cruise were the dashboard indicators. They were gone by this morning. After I coasted to the side of the interstate, she started right up, had full power, and no issues to speak of. Got the CEL pulled at AutoZone today and it's the lovely P2138. I have no warning lights glowing on the dash anymore, and no problems. I've got to make a 5 hour drive tomorrow or this afternoon. WTF to do? I took it on the interstate and flogged it through the gears and she ran just fine... did all of this without the heat on. |
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05-16-2010, 09:55 PM | #6 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 246934
Join Date: May 2010
Vehicle:2006 Legacy/Outback Silver |
I don't have an Impreza, but a 2006 Legacy/Outback; similar situation has happened to me now 4 different times...going down the road car locks out, gas pedal stops working, sometimes car won't start, another wait and it turns on and works fine, had it towed to a dealer, charged me money without finding problem...waiting for local mechanic to figure out code P2138...not sure what to do, he was convinced it is the computer for $400??? don't like that option; would much rather like to know more about this P2138 code? more info please fellow posters?
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05-17-2010, 02:04 AM | #7 |
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05-17-2010, 08:38 AM | #8 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 105437
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: SEIC
Vehicle:20xx STI OBP/ICM |
Awesome. Thanks Scotty. Any idea as to where the hardware is so I can locate it?
Lots of folks elsewhere have said that I can rectify this by cleaning the connectors on the Throttle Position Sensor. Where is this little bugger located? I've had the problem for about 4 months. As long as I don't get a lead foot, the car is perfectly fine. I floor the gas pedal and it happens every time. My job prevents me from spending the time to figure it out, but I'm off next week so I plan on fixing it! |
08-24-2010, 07:51 PM | #9 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 105437
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: SEIC
Vehicle:20xx STI OBP/ICM |
I sprayed the living crap out of the TPS contacts (inside and out) and then I flogged it. All's well. I used CRC Conact Cleaner to do it. I let it dry with hood up for 3 hours in 100 degree temps to let it dry. AWESOME! Got the solution from a guy on iwsti.
I can post pics if necessary! |
09-02-2010, 08:35 AM | #10 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 256625
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Quote:
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09-02-2010, 11:36 AM | #11 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 105437
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: SEIC
Vehicle:20xx STI OBP/ICM |
Quote:
My situation may be totally different... here's the discussion where I figured out my issue(s). iWSTI discussion where I got my solution |
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09-03-2010, 08:49 AM | #12 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 256625
Join Date: Sep 2010
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I am afraid the $1K is gone.
But the good news is that the contact clearner worked. Live and learn. I've got to find a new mechanic. He insists I need new cats for the intermittent P0420 code I get, even though everywhere I read it says it usually just needs a new O2 sensor. |
09-03-2010, 02:00 PM | #13 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 105437
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: SEIC
Vehicle:20xx STI OBP/ICM |
Christ does that suck... Subaru wanted $350+ to replace my throttle body to fix the problem.
$8.00 contact cleaner can later... all done. |
11-19-2012, 08:57 AM | #14 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 89198
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: ATL
Vehicle:2006 Legacy SW Ltd Silver |
valve pump for P2138?
My wife's '06 Legacy 2.5i wagon threw this code on Friday and she reported that the car accelerated. After she hit the brakes to get the car back under control, she said the throttle response was very sluggish. She pulled over. Turned off the car and restarted a minute or two later. The car seemed to operate fine with the CEL light on and the cruise control light slowly blinking.
I pulled the code P2138. We took it into Subaru Kennesaw and their mechanics say we need a new valve pump. I don't see that anywhere in the diagnostic posted. Can anyone guess why a valve pump might need to be replaced for this? Thanks in advance. Alex UPDATE: 11/20/2012 Nevermind. The service personal quoted the wong part. She meant to say throttle body assembly which now makes much more sense. Last edited by awu72; 11-20-2012 at 02:19 PM. Reason: spelling |
03-26-2014, 10:01 AM | #15 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 105437
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: SEIC
Vehicle:20xx STI OBP/ICM |
**** isn't fixed. -_-
FINALLY CORRELATION, though... If I turn the heat on the floor board, it will guaranteed happen within 2-3 minutes on a cold day. Replacing the TPS near the pedal seems valid, but from what I've read, it's a matter of time before it starts doing it again because of that. Any ideas? I've heard of people doing tons of stuff to that pedal sense on the floor and never being able to prevent it from happening. |
05-11-2014, 05:06 PM | #16 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 302508
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: Stockton
Vehicle:2004 STi Java Black Pearl |
Quote:
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05-12-2014, 11:15 PM | #17 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 105437
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: SEIC
Vehicle:20xx STI OBP/ICM |
Quote:
It's extremely predictable. It happens when it's freezing cold outside and I turn the heat on. If I leave the car freezing cold in the cabin and don't turn on the heat, it'll do just fine. SO aggravating in the winter. |
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05-14-2014, 08:47 AM | #18 |
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have you ever done a live data scan while this was going on to see if you can coorelate it like that???
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05-14-2014, 01:12 PM | #19 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 105437
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: SEIC
Vehicle:20xx STI OBP/ICM |
Quote:
Getting close to just selling it at this point. Under the hood, she's pristine beyond that damned issue. The body is beat to hell from a hail storm, but I'm tempted to sell it and let it be someone else's woe for winter. I haven't heard of this impacting newer scoobs and I'd be okay with a newer hatch. That being said, not sure of the issues that impact more current model years. |
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02-03-2015, 12:57 PM | #20 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 299104
Join Date: Oct 2011
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Vehicle:2005 Legacy GT Ltd Garnet Red Pearl |
same issue on my 2014 WRX. car towed to the dealership. I only have 10k miles on it
UPDATE: just got my car back on 2/6, after 3 days in service. one of the sensors in the gas pedal went bad and the gas pedal was replaced Last edited by mschiavoni; 02-07-2015 at 09:56 AM. Reason: update |
11-06-2015, 08:17 PM | #21 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 33316
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:2001 2.5 RS Coupe Silver |
P2138 fix
I know this is an old thread, but I've searched many forums and haven't found any with a permanent solution.
I've been having this problem on my 2005 Baja Turbo 5MT w/ 72K miles since I bought it in May, but hasn't been a problem with my 2004 Baja Turbo 4EAT w/176K miles that I bought in February. The RPMs would fluctuate to 1500 rpms and below at idle or I could feel small surges in gear just before the CEL would come on. I would notice sometimes that the cruise light would flash before the CEL would illuminate. I don't know if this problem is related to the difference in ECUs and people usually don't post about their trans configuration, so I cannot say for sure. This is just my experience. Seems unusual that the car with 176K miles operates fine and the 72K mile car is plauged with this issue. So far, I've done all the tests in the service manual, more than twice. I haven't done any data logging, but I hooked up my Subaru Select Monitor and both signal outputs seem to be normal when I depress the accelerator through it's full range of motion. I've tried swapping the pedals and have even replaced the pedal with a new Subaru OEM part. Nothing has worked. It has started to become a daily occurence and can be quite dangerous in certain situations. I think it has to do with humidity like others have mentioned, because it usually occurs more on cloudy/rainy days and early in the morning/late in the evening. The P2138 code refers to a difference in the voltage output of the two potentiometers in the pedal assembly. I thought that maybe I'd try hooking both signal inputs going to the ECU to one of the signal outputs on the pedal assembly so that there would never be any differences in voltage, causing the ECU to go into limp mode. It has been three days so far and the idle is much smoother, there are no longer any surges, and I have not yet had a CEL. DISCLAIMER !!!! Try this mod at your own risk, but I think that limp mode is much more dangerous and have had many close situations where I've lost the pedal on a busy highway, crossed dangerous intersections or even stalled out on hills. If you try this mod and you have a surge or wide open throttle situation, just be aware that the simplest thing to do is to put the car in neutral before pulling over and turning off the ignition. I say this as a disclaimer, because this situation happened with the Toyota pedal recalls and people died. Below is a link to pictures of the schematic for the pedal position sensor and my jerry rigged wiring job. I unhooked the connectors and used some other terminals I had from another harness to make my mod reversible without cutting any wires. The signal input wires on my car are the blue with white stripe and the white with blue stripe. They are terminals 2 and 5 on the wiring harness. imgur.com/a/io0Fm I hope this helps. Every forum I've read hasn't found a solution and I've even read about individuals selling their car because of this. I'm too stubborn and I love my Bajas. The wife says I have to sell one though. I will report back if I have any further issues. Last edited by RSdude; 11-06-2015 at 09:18 PM. |
11-15-2015, 12:23 AM | #22 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 434256
Join Date: Nov 2015
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Drive by wire problems...
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03-08-2018, 02:35 PM | #23 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 483099
Join Date: Mar 2018
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Three Oaks, MI
Vehicle:2005 Outback |
Bumping this thread back up - we are having this issue with our 2005 Outback and wondering if there's consensus on the best way to approach it ... preferably that does not involve a very overpriced repair at the dealer. I'm not a mechanic and my husband isn't technically minded - but I can definitely order parts for someone, and/or use connector cleaner ...
Thoughts? What's the best long-term solution? |
03-08-2018, 04:26 PM | #24 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 299104
Join Date: Oct 2011
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Vehicle:2005 Legacy GT Ltd Garnet Red Pearl |
Quote:
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03-08-2018, 04:45 PM | #25 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 483099
Join Date: Mar 2018
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Three Oaks, MI
Vehicle:2005 Outback |
Do you happen to know what the part is called? I'm ordering for another repair on this car as I type ... !
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