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Old 07-10-2005, 05:18 PM   #1
wongvi
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Default 1st oil change

Just wanted to know if anyone had any tips on trying to unscrew the drain plug and oil filter on a 2005 RS. I tried crawling under the car and just going at it but the damn things wouldn't budge. I think I'll end up taking it to the dealer to get it changed.
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Old 07-10-2005, 05:39 PM   #2
Murf_68
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The drain plug shouldn't be very tight. I use a socket and if it doesn't budge, bang the end of the handle with the side of my fist to jar it loose. If that doesn't work try a piece of tube or pipe over the handle to give you more leverage.

As for the filter, mine was on very tightly and half way through an oil change isn't an ideal time to go out and buy a filter wrench! I ended up using a piece of metal bar against the edge of the filter and tapping it with a hammer to rotate the filter. A messier way is to punch a screw driver through the filter and push on the handle to rotate the filter off. Several risks with this - damage to the oil filter housing on the car, mess, and then if it doesn't come off you are really stuck as you have a punctured filter on the car so you can't even refill with oil and drive somewhere for help. Try getting a filter wrench and make sure it is the right size and will fit on the filter before you start.

Good Luck!

Mark.

Edit: Forgot - buy a new crush washer for the drain plug. On mine the washer was painted black, like the plug, and it didn't look like there was one there at first! Make sure to remove and replace the washer.
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Old 07-10-2005, 06:10 PM   #3
Brad Pittiful
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just remember this

righty tighty...lefty loosey
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Old 07-10-2005, 06:50 PM   #4
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when you finally do get the old subaru oem filter off (use a pair of grippy gloves if you have them) go to any auto parts place and get a fram oil filter that has a grippy bottom part to it so you dont have to worry about it anymore. oil filters should only be tightened no more than 1&1/2 times after it comes in contact with the block.
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Old 07-10-2005, 07:20 PM   #5
Glockperfection
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Get a fumoto Valve http://www.fumotovalve.com/

Get a breaker bar to loosen that bolt. It'll be useful for future projects too.
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Old 07-10-2005, 07:55 PM   #6
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i've got a fumoto valve, it makes it super easy and much cleaner. however, the threads stick into the oil pan, so if you want to get all the oil out, you'll have to remove the valve or tilt the car (i prefer the former rather than the latter). not sure if they have a new version or not.
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Old 07-10-2005, 08:55 PM   #7
wongvi
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Thanks for the help. I'll try the breaker bar. They must have used air tools to get that thing on in the factory.

I got the filter and the crush washer from the dealership, wouldn't you know it but the 2005 RS uses the STi oil filter... the price was ridculous. I would skip out on the Fram filters, heard cardboard isn't exactly the best "filter" material. But that's a discussion for another thread.
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Old 07-11-2005, 03:17 PM   #8
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Just go here (http://www.allsubaru.com/catalog.html) and get a case of them with crush rings for a decent price. Buy 5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic from WalMart at $20/ 5 quarts and about every 5th change will be free oil from the leftover.

Just a thought.
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Old 07-11-2005, 04:35 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick04263
Just go here (http://www.allsubaru.com/catalog.html) and get a case of them with crush rings for a decent price.
With shipping that only saved me 0.92 over buying them at the dealer
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Old 07-11-2005, 07:20 PM   #10
hendo2.5
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i've had that problem with a new tractor. (i'm not kidding) sometimes drain plugs are relly tight when they come from the factory.
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Old 07-11-2005, 07:47 PM   #11
wht052.5
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Same with the filter. From the factory = bitch-tight.
After your first oil change, if you do it right, the filter will come off by hand.
And for the drain-plug, just bang the wrench with your fist and make damn sure you are going the right way. I've never had to use a breaker bar on an oil pan.

You'll be aaiight.
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Old 07-11-2005, 08:16 PM   #12
sdogg3kgt
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My drain plug wouldn't come off either, I used to always take it to the dealer for oil changes. I guess they use the airtools to tighten it. I had to use a breaker bar to get it off.
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Old 07-11-2005, 08:24 PM   #13
Millencolin!
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DO NOT go to the dealer for a simple oil change. Just get a long ratchet and pull hard.

You should also make sure you don't try to change the oil after driving.
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:27 AM   #14
wht052.5
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why? Because of the heat?

It may be an old wive's tale, but I thought that you were supposed to change it after it has come up to operating temperature.
You know to let the contaminants and such flow out.

That's the way I've always done it.
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:45 AM   #15
gjhsu
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let it run for a few minutes, for the oil to thin out. any more, and it hurts pretty bad
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Old 07-12-2005, 11:37 AM   #16
Ruiner77
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Did my oil for the first time on my 05 this past weekend. The drain plug wasnt too bad to get off, but the filter took a while. Couldnt use the usual strap type filter wrench because the filter is recessed in there and there was no leverage. So we got one of those wrenches that has 3 teeth and attaches to a socket wrench. Then since the filter was smooth and had no grip, we wrapped a peice of rubber around it for grip... LOL. PITA but we got it off. Should be good to go now. I also needed to use a box cutter to score around teh old crush ring since it was totaly painted on.
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Millencolin!
DO NOT go to the dealer for a simple oil change. Just get a long ratchet and pull hard.

You should also make sure you don't try to change the oil after driving.
Actually, you should change it when the oil's hot so that the particulates are in suspension in the oil instead of settled on the bottom of the pan. Another reason to get a fumoto valve, so hot oil doesn't go everywhere.

Also wongvi, (shameless plug) I put together a write-up when I changed my oil for the first time. You can check it out here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=786772
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Old 07-12-2005, 12:45 PM   #18
flyingmachine
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as others have mentioned, don't over tighten the oil filter. A simple trick I've used is alway tighten it w/ your less dominant hand. I'm right handed so I use my left to put it on, then I know my right hand can always take it off.
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Old 07-12-2005, 02:19 PM   #19
Subie Doobie
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who here changes their oil every 3000 miles? i go 5000! I heard there is no difference what so ever, aside from you spending a whole lotta more money on oil.
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Old 07-12-2005, 02:27 PM   #20
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If you're using full synthetic, 5000 is OK. A lot of us here just feel better changing it out every 3K for the peace of mind. Also, "spirited driving" will warrant more frequent oil changes. In the grand scheme of things, what's 20 bucks and 15 minutes?
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Old 07-12-2005, 06:09 PM   #21
wht052.5
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I like 3500 to 4000. The manual says 3750.
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Old 07-12-2005, 06:17 PM   #22
AlboWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick04263
Just go here (http://www.allsubaru.com/catalog.html) and get a case of them with crush rings for a decent price. Buy 5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic from WalMart at $20/ 5 quarts and about every 5th change will be free oil from the leftover.

Just a thought.
Not really. Whatever is extra he will need to put in after he loses it while driving hard. Get 10-30 less consumption.
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Old 07-14-2005, 10:11 AM   #23
AndyH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perret318
If you're using full synthetic, 5000 is OK. A lot of us here just feel better changing it out every 3K for the peace of mind. Also, "spirited driving" will warrant more frequent oil changes. In the grand scheme of things, what's 20 bucks and 15 minutes?
Depends on a lot of factors....impossible to really recommend a "best" OCI (oil change interval) for everyone reading this.

Me, I'm going to use a 5,000 mile OCI when I switch over to using Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (a.k.a., German Castrol) in a few hundred miles.

If you really want to know how your oil is holding up over a specific drain interval, have the used oil analyzed and make sure to have them perform a TBN (total base number) analysis. This will give you an idea of how "used-up" the oil is. If the TBN is still good at say 3,000 miles there is no reason to drain the oil.
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Old 07-14-2005, 12:17 PM   #24
wongvi
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Oh no worries Perret, not a shameless plug whatsoever. I have that thread printed and put in a binder. I was referencing it when I was "attempting" the oil change.

The oil change intervals are a personal preference I noticed, since I killed my old car by not changing the oil, I think $20 + 15 minutes every 3 months is not too bad.

This first change however I am probably going to take it to the dealer to do because I don't have the equipment to pry off the oil filter and drain plug. I just have to make sure to tell them not to screw in the filter and plug so damn tight when they reinstall it.
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Old 07-14-2005, 09:24 PM   #25
AlboWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wongvi
Oh no worries Perret, not a shameless plug whatsoever. I have that thread printed and put in a binder. I was referencing it when I was "attempting" the oil change.

The oil change intervals are a personal preference I noticed, since I killed my old car by not changing the oil, I think $20 + 15 minutes every 3 months is not too bad.

This first change however I am probably going to take it to the dealer to do because I don't have the equipment to pry off the oil filter and drain plug. I just have to make sure to tell them not to screw in the filter and plug so damn tight when they reinstall it.
They dont screw it in tight but after 3k miles of driving hard and the heat will work its magic. You really need to go to an auto store and grab yourself a ratchet with an extension and a filter loosener. Trust me ,its easier than being a geek. And you never pry off the filter, you unscrew it.
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