Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday June 12, 2021
Home Forums Images WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Miscellaneous > Off-Topic

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Closed Thread
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-09-2005, 04:06 PM   #1
Janq
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 33246
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Where ever I lay my hat is my
Thumbs up OT Home Owners: Home Improvement Tips, Tools & Technologies

More than a few of you are handy man types and/or do work on your home for fun, profit and/or just plain neccessity.
As such from all the really good ideas and tips i personally have received in threads prior I thought I'd setup a thread toward craop I've found so far that works and provide a central space for others to state or share as much.
No talk here about interest rates, finding a mortgage or OMG! the real estate market is gonna assplodez!!1!
Just tech and techniques for those who are already in and are doing their own research if not work toward renovations and maintenance.

Recently I've been researching various ways to remove paint for multiple surfaces specifically wooden shingles and dentil modling (exterior) as well as painted over stained interior wood including doors, mantles, built ins and even wood plank flooring.
As is well known there are chemical and sanding methods as well as the old school e-heat method via a hotplate or handheld blower but all of those have serious issues.
I'd recently resigned myself to having to replane the doors, snad the floors, leave the trim painted over (!) and pay out the nose for hand sanding og the exteriors shingles.
Well all that was resolved last night in one episode of the most recent 'This Old House'!

The current home they are working on has similar paint issues as mine inside and out.
The ToH people wanted to remove the paint but not upset the wood outside or in both of which are in good condition and historical (250 yrs. old in this case). Further like myself they had to be concerned about lead paint and the environmental issues that are associated with that.
So they found two very new products to do the trick which I was just estatic about...

Chemical: RemovAll bio-friendly non caustic chemical/gel paint stripper

http://www.napiere.com/products/RemovALL.php
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/know...6353-5,00.html

Infrared (!): The Silent Paint Remover

http://www.silentpaintremover.com

Both of these products for us will prove to be quite handy.
In fact I'll be ordering a 'Complete System' version of the SPR product.

As costly, time consuming and potentially hazardous that paint removal can be I just had to share these technologies with OT.
If you've found or used something similarly helpful or revolutionary post them up!

- Janq & Mrs. Janq are psyched!

Note: I do not work for or with ToH and neither of the mfrs. as detailed are clients of mine.
Basically I get no compensation or benefit of any sort personal or professional toward mention of these specific products.
I'm just happy to finally find viable and cost effective solutions toward a hugely problematic and typically expensive problem.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Janq is offline  
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 08-09-2005, 04:07 PM   #2
Strider
Visiting NASIOC Timeout
 
Member#: 2197
Join Date: Aug 2000
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: An adventure is just
Vehicle:
an inconvenience,
properly considered.

Default

rightie tighty, leftie loosie.

measure twice, cut once.

Also, teflon tape is your friend.
Strider is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:15 PM   #3
BeeGee
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 27724
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:
1970 F100
Black/White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by StriderTB
Also, teflon tape is your friend.
Right behind duct tape. Those gutters ain't goin' nowhere!1!
BeeGee is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:16 PM   #4
Strider
Visiting NASIOC Timeout
 
Member#: 2197
Join Date: Aug 2000
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: An adventure is just
Vehicle:
an inconvenience,
properly considered.

Default

I got a roll of teflon tape in the last OT box exchange, and I just used it again, installing a new shower head. I'm a fan.
Strider is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:19 PM   #5
bluesunlion
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 11377
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: North Texas
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Sti
WRB

Default

Removing wallpaper: Don't bother scoring and using a stripping solution, since if the stuff is really stuck, it won't be coming off anytime soon with that method.
If you dont want to rent a wallpaper specific steamer, just go to your nearest big box and buy the cheapest clothes steamer you can find.


Additionally, Don't cheap out and think you can cut a bunch of bathroom wall tile with a dremel and a tile bit. The dremel will suck in too much tile dust and the motor will quit. Go buy or rent a tile saw and save yourself the trouble. Tile saws start at 80$, and replacing a dremel is about half of that, plus the aggravation.

Experience is the best teacher of all. Please learn from mine.
bluesunlion is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:26 PM   #6
Janq
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 33246
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Where ever I lay my hat is my
Default

The infrared SPR device works not only on paint but will deactivate the hold of glues including wallpaper and tile too be it on the wall or floor.
No dust or sawing/cutting involved or required.

I spent two hours straight last night reading up on everything I could find about this product [thank you Canadians!!!] and this thing will even loosen rusted hardware and
bolts all via 500 degree radiated spot specific heat.
Even works on plaster for paint and covering removal.

It's like a hundred tool & chemical uses in one!

We just stripped a side room of wallpaper and that was days worth of work.
The SPR could have made the project a lot less annoying and time consuming.
One wall papered room down 13 or so more to go...

- Janq is a nut for teflon tape too
Janq is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:33 PM   #7
Max_Power
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 79929
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: RSN
Vehicle:
THE -=OT=-

Default

On the tile note: start in the center of the room when actually tiling, not a wall. Get the spacers from Home Depot for a serious time saver.

Bathroom: get someone else to scrape off the toilet wax gasket or at least use a tool you'll never use again.

Teflon tape's OK. I know its blasphemous but I prefer teflon paste like Rectorseal.
Max_Power is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:34 PM   #8
bluesunlion
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 11377
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: North Texas
Vehicle:
2016 WRX Sti
WRB

Default

465 just for the unit is pretty steep, but much cheaper than the time, effort, and lead dust around BabyJanq.

Let us know how it works in RL. My inlaws are restoring a 100 year old farmhouse.
bluesunlion is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:35 PM   #9
AcquaCow
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 36838
Join Date: May 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Reston VA
Vehicle:
2001 B50 RSTi Sedan
2011 DGM WRX hatch

Default

I have to put in a vote for any and all rechargable battery-pack tools. Especially the ones that share compatible battery packs.

These things are great. Keep an array of charged batteries and you can never go wrong.

They make flashlights, screwguns, screwdrivers, dustbusters, etc that all use the same battery packs...

-- Dave
AcquaCow is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:44 PM   #10
BeeGee
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 27724
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:
1970 F100
Black/White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Max_Power
On the tile note: start in the center of the room when actually tiling, not a wall. Get the spacers from Home Depot for a serious time saver.
I do just the opposite...find the center of the room and chalk a grid over the room, each grid representing a 2x2 square of tiles plus groutlines. Then I just do one grid at a time following the chalklines and foregoing the spacers. It's possible to get off on a large run using the spacers due to variations in the tiles, but with chalklines you're essentially 'resetting' every 2 tiles. More than one way to skin a cat and whatnot.

Also, http://www.johnbridge.com is the dope for a tile resoure/forums.
BeeGee is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:45 PM   #11
ZMANNH25rs
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 9401
Join Date: Aug 2001
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Bis dat, qui cito dat...
Vehicle:
. Truth is a
pathless land...

Default

When doing any sort of renovating or demolition I highly recommend a SuperBar...this thing is the definition of kick as...

ZMANNH25rs is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:48 PM   #12
Grap
Dicky Nipperist
 
Member#: 6590
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Mid-A hotel room
Default

Caulk will fix many a DIY'ers fouls.
Grap is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:49 PM   #13
Janq
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 33246
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Where ever I lay my hat is my
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesunlion
465 just for the unit is pretty steep, but much cheaper than the time, effort, and lead dust around BabyJanq.

Let us know how it works in RL. My inlaws are restoring a 100 year old farmhouse.
Yeah the full kit system I'm going to go with is $1,460.

But compare that relative to the time of hand sanding or the dangers of using a conventional chemical remover (multiple applications to boot) or if even using the enviro-friendly RemovAll product which ain't cheap either still involves a large amount of time and manual work.
Contract that out and the bill for removal alone will come to a alot more than $65 or even $1,460 for a single room or two muchless whole house.
Also we did some quick math like my solid oak front door I was prepared to remove and send off to tbe replaned & refinished as its exterior is coated in decades old aged two layer cracking black paint.
The cost for that alone, which is necessary, is just shy of the cost of buying the device. Not to mention I've got 4 sets of 6x6 pocket doors same material, same problem painted on a given side.
Considering all the paint removal and in the case of the house and car barns shingles both of which require repainting this tool will pay for itself over and over.

It ain't cheap but then you get what you pay for and all the other options are far more expensive and worst are destructive.
The lead abatement component as per the environment and ourselves is just another benefit as otherwise to have such work done involves professionals with respirators and sealed off positive pressure room$.

- Janq
Janq is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:57 PM   #14
-=C=-
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 7719
Join Date: Jun 2001
Vehicle:
99 F-150 crew cab
with illegals in bed

Default

For a great upgrade to landscaping...consider low voltage outdoor lighting over the cheapo solar lighting. It will look better, last a very long time, and is hardly noticeable on your electric bill.
-=C=- is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 04:59 PM   #15
Bonzo
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 2307
Join Date: Sep 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: West of Rd Am
Vehicle:
2018 KTM500EXC
Orange

Default

iirc teflon tape may not meet code in some areas. What does meet code and works excellent for sealing is thick sticky white paste known as pipe joint compound.

I have found teflon tape to be hit and miss. When using it, it is important to wind the tape the same direction as the thread.
Bonzo is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 05:08 PM   #16
kilonad
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 82651
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: PNW
Vehicle:
2005 WRX Wagon
WR Blue Pearl

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SureGrip
Caulk will fix many a DIY'ers fouls.
Many OTters are big fans of teh caulk.
kilonad is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 05:12 PM   #17
kilonad
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 82651
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: PNW
Vehicle:
2005 WRX Wagon
WR Blue Pearl

Default

Wow, the SPR company is like 20 minutes from my house (and in the same town as Van Bortel, which everyone here seems to equate to the god of subaru dealerships).
kilonad is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 05:21 PM   #18
Janq
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 33246
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Where ever I lay my hat is my
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kilonad
Many OTters are big fans of teh caulk.
Zing!

But come on keep it serious.
I understand Jetta's are great for hauling plywood, caulk and pipe.
While a diesel one lasts longer. ;P

- Janq supports Van Bortel Subaru
Janq is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 05:22 PM   #19
Layman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 3717
Join Date: Jan 2001
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Army of the Potomac
Vehicle:
2011 Swagger Wagon
bikes with pedals

Default

Hot Water Heaters:

  • Hot water heaters are very easy to replace as long as you get a new one of the same dimensions. Don't pay to have it done for you.
  • Be sure to keep the electricity off (via the circuit breaker) until the new water heater is full of water (the sound of water running into the tank stops). Otherwise, you run the risk of burning out the heating elements.
  • You should drain a few gallons of water out of the water heater every month to avoid setiment build-up in the bottom. As above, be sure to turn off the electricity until the water heater is full again.
  • Perform periodic checks around the bottom of the tank to look for weeping. At the first sign of leakage (or weeping), replace the unit. Water heaters are relatively cheap and are certainly far cheaper than the water damage you'll incur from a busted tank.
Layman is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 05:26 PM   #20
Layman
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 3717
Join Date: Jan 2001
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Army of the Potomac
Vehicle:
2011 Swagger Wagon
bikes with pedals

Default

Paint:

My paint of choice is Bear Flat Enamel.

Flat finish paint is often easily damaged by water (ie washing). Flat enamel keeps the no-gloss look of flat paint but is able to be washed without being damaged.



Also, try color for God's sake! White is so boring!
Layman is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 05:31 PM   #21
fuzzycuffs
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 32309
Join Date: Jan 2003
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Tempe, AZ (and soon Tokyo, JP)
Vehicle:
2003 Silver WRX
Who needs a car in Tokyo?

Default



(c'mon, like no one else thought the same thing)
fuzzycuffs is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 05:49 PM   #22
Unabomber
👏 Big Ron 👏
Moderator
 
Member#: 18062
Join Date: Apr 2002
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: I can save you a ton of cash
Vehicle:
on car parts so PM
me b4 j00 buy

Default

http://www.epa.gov/lead/leadpdfe.pdf

If you have kids, you MUST read this before touching paint or other related home improvement items. In fact, you can sue the bejesus out of a contrator if they do not give you this prior to starting a job even if your house is freshly built. This handout will teach you a lot if you take the time to read it.
Unabomber is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 06:04 PM   #23
Kiwi
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 67942
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: International
Location: I come from the Land DownUnder
Vehicle:
The Other
Land Down Under

Question

I don't want to hi-jack the thread, but there seem to be some knowledgable people in here. The wife and I recently bought a house and we're in the process of doing or deciding on what work needs to be done (cosmetic really).

Q. We found two wall mounted wine racks that would look good on the huge wall we have in the kitchen. My noob question is, would the racks have to be mounted into the studs to support the weight (4 bottles in a rack)? Or would there be enough support just drilling into the drywall?


A.??
Kiwi is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 06:07 PM   #24
imprezton
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 22958
Join Date: Aug 2002
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:
2017 Forester 2.5 Li
Silver

Default

Here's a tip:

If you are buying a new development house, visit it often while it's being built, and take lots of photos.

You can use the photos to visualize the construction after it's been completed and you have a project going.
imprezton is offline  
Old 08-09-2005, 06:08 PM   #25
imprezton
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 22958
Join Date: Aug 2002
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:
2017 Forester 2.5 Li
Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi
I don't want to hi-jack the thread, but there seem to be some knowledgable people in here. The wife and I recently bought a house and we're in the process of doing or deciding on what work needs to be done (cosmetic really).

Q. We found two wall mounted wine racks that would look good on the huge wall we have in the kitchen. My noob question is, would the racks have to be mounted into the studs to support the weight (4 bottles in a rack)? Or would there be enough support just drilling into the drywall?


A.??
I wouldn't put four bottles of wine on a rack supported only by drywall. If there are 3 screwpoints, I would put the center one on aa stud. If there were only two, I hope they match the stud width. Even if they don't, one stud anchor is better than none, and make sure the unstudded screw has a good butterfly anchor.
imprezton is offline  
Closed Thread

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OT Real Estate and Home Owners: EXTREME development, good for our house value? boosted84wagonmonster Off-Topic 10 03-24-2007 02:22 PM
OT home owners: wrxruIes Off-Topic 14 11-27-2006 11:11 AM
OT Home Owners: Pear Tree(s)? jacobsen1_ Off-Topic 8 05-01-2006 01:17 PM
Newbie OT gun owners: Safe firearm handling practices & products thread Janq Off-Topic 15 09-21-2005 02:36 PM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2021 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.