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Old 12-02-2005, 12:36 AM   #1
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 79498
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: SCIC's trashy neighbor
2013 XV

Default Tackling Stg 2 on Saturday, any last warnings?

I got my Cobb Inconel (bling! ) up pipe and high flow cat down pipe in the mail a few days ago and I'm going to give my best shot at installing it at home.

I'm going to of course start with hitting all the fasteners with PB blaster first thing in the morning after removing the IC and heat shield(s) Friday night and...

make sure I can get the engine mount nut off, had a problem with that before...

go after loosening the header bolts, since I'll be down there for the engine mount....

the 02 sensor through the wheel well....

then on to the up and down pipe bolts/nuts according to the instructions.

I just want to get to all the big gotchas before I get everything half way apart and end up putting it all back together again to Stg. 1.

I also got gaskets for the up and down pipe, I'm assuming that the header gaskets will be fine to reuse? I guess if they're not, it won't be "that" bad to change them later.

Wish me luck, I hope this turns out really nice with the Prodrive muffler I got along with the pipes but just HAD to install the next morning before work.
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Last edited by richde; 12-02-2005 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:25 AM   #2
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 52295
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Albuquerque
2003 WRX Wagon


DP is easy...up pipe is TEH DEVIL(time consuming and frustrating). search for uppipe install here and on scoobymods.com and you should be able to find a good pictured description.

As far as the gaskets you should always replace them but if your car is really new then you can do without.

Good luck!!
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:50 AM   #3
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 96793
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Edmonton
02 ProTuned TD04
Now with more clunks!


I did an identical install (Cobb catted DP, gutted UP) last Saturday...and Sunday. I did it by myself, so it took a looooooong time.

It's all straightforward except for the UP, which is straightforward too, just hard to execute. Bend the EGT sensor flat against the side of the UP to make it easier to remove.

To remove the O2 sensor, I cut into the heat shield w/ tin snips while it was on the car, but loose - from the side up to the O2 hole, then bent the hole open. The heatshield dropped right off, making the O2 sensor accessible. I wish I'd done that right off the start.

To get the UP out, jack the engine up a bit, then start twisting/wiggling/moving/turning the UP until you get lucky and find the right spot, it will start to come out under the turbo. It's much easier to maneouvre the UP with the passenger side manifold removed. You should probably want to tap for EGT anyways...this is a good opportunity!

Otherwise, read and understand all 4 install directions in Unabomber's FAQ, and keep track of all of you screws/nuts/bolts.

Have fun! Stage 2 is beautiful!
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Old 12-02-2005, 04:30 AM   #4
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 29917
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Prince Edward Island, CA
2017 WRX


Stage 2 rocks. I took mine to local shop (Meineke) who does all my "lift" work for me. Honestly, I couldn't believe how long it took him to get the old uppipe out! And this, in a shop with all the tools for the job! No way I'd want to tackle that in MY garage. Anyway, his problems were compounded when he didn't want to use break-free on any of the bolts. After 40K, one of the bolts actually sheared off. The O2 was tough, and the EGT sensor on the UP was hopeless and I said he could cut it - only way to get UP out, even with engine mount trick.
Yes, he re-used the header gaskets, but he cleaned up the surfaces real good first, and used "copper" stuff to help ensure re-sealing. One problem we had was the stock doughnut gasket between Cobb DP and Stromung Midpipe couldn't be re-used, because it leaked. Something about its design - once fitted to stock, it may not fit aftermarket. I had to order it from local Subie dealer and paid a bundle (like 38 bucks).
So, just my two cents, but I think it's worth it to take it to a "pro." The whole six hours actually cost me like 180 bucks (since the book rate for this work was so much less than what it actually took!) and that was really worth it! Of course, the shop wouldn't do one for that price again either! (I tipped the mech, and felt bad, but I do give these guys a LOT of business with two performance cars.)
But if you tackle it yourself, you should be OK - just spray stuff down well (my shop wanted to avoid "customer complaints" - car smoking)...
If you can find a good shop to tackle it for a "fixed fee," that's a great option.
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Old 12-02-2005, 07:34 AM   #5
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 68490
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Spring
'04 tippin' on
fo'fo jackstands.


The engine mount "trick" is meh. Just take the exhaust housing off you your turbo, its one easy nut, then lightly tap the clamp with a wrench (don't loose the nut or bolt). There is a pin to line-up the housing so it goes on straight, just give the thing a wiggle and it will come off, just go slow so you don't bang up the turbine blades. I have done this method atleast half a dozen times. The UP comes out/in no problem.
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Old 12-02-2005, 04:08 PM   #6
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 91776
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: North Attleboro, MA
2008 Civic Hybrid


Another easy way to get the uppipe out is to first remove the down pipe, then unbolt your uppipe, o2 sensor harness on the 2nd coil, o2 sensor, and egt. Rotate the uppipe 180 degrees left to right, not end over end, pull it out towards the opening created by the downpipe, and it will fall out...
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