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01-22-2006, 10:44 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 79160
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:2011 WRX DGM |
Broken crank pulley bolt
I purchased my 97 OBS with about 101,000 miles last year. A few months ago I heard a weird knock/rattle at idle. Mechanic finds crank pulley loose , tightens bolt and recommends that pulley be replaced when timing belt is done.
So I order the parts (thanks Jamie) and figure I'll do the timing belt myself. Loosen the crank pulley bolt without any real difficulty find pulley worn from slipping on the woodruff key,key half gone,and the inside of the timing cover full of steel dust. Tensioner and two idlers making noise when spun by hand. Then I notice that the new crank pulley bolt (I ordered a new bolt) is longer and a smaller diameter than the one that I removed. So with an inspection mirror and a flashlight I peek in the bolt hole in the end of the crank and sure enough there is a broken bolt in the crank. Some blathering idiot drilled and tapped the crank to "repair" it. I'm afraid that if I install the new pulley with the "shoemaker special" bolt I'll end up having the same problem all over again. Other than rebuilding/replacing the engine, any ideas on a fix?
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01-23-2006, 02:35 AM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 74907
Join Date: Nov 2004
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: salem, OR
Vehicle:98 cam'd EJ251 Wrx Tranny,slowr than ish |
so some numbskull forgot to tighten the crank bolt at one time, is stripped out the threads and he/she re-tapped it for a bigger sized bolt? (no doubt a standard size bolt, not metric) i dont know of any fixes for that problem. short of replacing the crank, i dont have a clue.
~Josh~ |
01-23-2006, 02:54 PM | #3 |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT |
I would suggest getting a good grade bolt that fits the "repair" and use lock tite when it is reinstalled.
Oh...and hope it stays together. Last edited by Charlie-III; 01-23-2006 at 08:42 PM. |
01-23-2006, 04:54 PM | #4 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 102166
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Circling in a thermal
Vehicle:2006 Impreza Steel gray 2 Guzzis |
Consider using a helicoil. I know that they stand up well on marine propulsion diesels, and they should in your case, too.
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01-23-2006, 08:42 PM | #5 | |
NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT |
Quote:
Not impossible, but not my first choice. |
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01-24-2006, 09:31 AM | #6 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 79160
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:2011 WRX DGM |
Thanks for the replies
The problem is that the threaded section of the original bolt is stuck about 2" deep into the crank. The "repair" was to thread the snout of the crank to a depth of about 1 1/2" for a 5/8"x11 t.p.i. bolt. I spent a good part of yesterday finding an assortment of lefthanded drill bits in the hope that I'll be able to get the broken bolt to back out, but I have a feeling that the chances of that happining are slim to none If I can't remove the broken bolt then would you then trust the repair enough to install about $600 in parts(timing belt,tenshioner, 3 idlers, water pump, crank pulley, ect.)? |
01-24-2006, 10:38 AM | #7 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 52801
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: San Diego, CA.
Vehicle:1999 Legacy Wagon L Green 30th Anniv. |
If you have a 2.2l, send those parts back!
I just finished my timing belt, and while I was in there, I changed: water pump all idler pulleys (3) tensioner pulley (one piece for my model year) thermostat radiator hoses cam seals crank seal oil pump seal All for $400, shipped to my home in SD. My local dealer wanted 50% more than that, which sounds like the deal you are getting on parts. Call Auburn Subaru in Washington. 866-528-5282 Ask for Jason. I am a believer after finding out about them on this board. As far as backing that bolt out, you will no doubt need to drill a hole through the center of what is left behind. That could be hairy unless the engine is pulled from the car, and even then not an easy thing. That bolt is pretty long on my car, I cannot imagine trusting 2" of bolt to holding it all together at 130 pounds of torque. If you do have a 2.2, try to find another 2.2 in a junkyard that has 100k miles on it and pull it. You already have all the parts that need to be changed on the front side already. I am not sure about splitting the case on these, I had a VW once and there are just too many little things that can bite you later after splitting the case. Good Luck and use the Force! Bill in SD |
01-25-2006, 01:25 PM | #8 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 79160
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:2011 WRX DGM |
The saga continues-
The good news- Yesterday I was able to drill out the center of the broken bolt without further damage to the crank. The bad news- With a # 5 screw extractor, carb cleaner, kano kroil penetrating oil, and a #6 tap handle it still won't budge. birukun, Thanks for the info on the parts but I think that the seemingly big price differance is due to the crank pulley-$98 with a discount-plus some other odd and ends that I ordered. I'm not comfortable with trusting the "repair" with $600 in parts when I can get a rebuilt engine for less than $1800. I'm going to let it soak for a day or two more but it looks like I'll be in the market for a engine. |
01-25-2006, 10:54 PM | #9 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 45494
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: glen rock, pa
Vehicle:95 impreza L awd green |
just get a grade 8 bolt in that size and torque it down then all will be fine
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01-26-2006, 12:04 AM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 2289
Join Date: Sep 2000
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Bangor, PA
Vehicle:1998 11.87@112mph Subaru L Ver 6 STi Type R |
Weld it on. I have done this many times. The engine is about used up anyway and junk if you cant fix it!
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01-26-2006, 07:23 AM | #11 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 30800
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: Ontario
Vehicle:2000 .7 RS |
the key is what is doing most of the work if the crank pulley is tight enough to not move off of it, i'd take kay95's adivise and get the best bolt you can and red loctite it in there
what would you weld on??the bolt head to the crank pulley? then the key would effectively stop the bolt from unthreading itself... that sounds pretty reasonable! you can do all your timing bits as you please, then if something goes wrong down the road, just rip the timing cover off later and take all those bits off to use on a different longblock... |
01-26-2006, 06:08 PM | #12 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 45494
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: glen rock, pa
Vehicle:95 impreza L awd green |
Quote:
and if by welding you have to mean to the crank directly because thats the only thing you could weld to keep the pulley on because you cant weld the bolt to the pulley because you will never get it on because it will hit the key and not tighten very bad dont weld no good will come from it the repair that is currently done is standard and very common and you will have no problems |
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01-26-2006, 09:30 PM | #13 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 634
Join Date: Dec 1999
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Vehicle:2000 Impreza 2.5RS Becasue racecar |
I wonder how long the lemon law last?
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