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Old 01-29-2006, 02:27 AM   #1
Impretzle
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Unhappy 95 Impreza 1.8 suddenly not running right

Drove my car this morning, it was fine. Later that evening I started her up ice cold, waited a couple minutes and went to go, but it bogged out, would barely go, i had to slip the clutch a lot just to get it off the hill I was on. Since then it's been idling rough, hesitating, backfiring out the intake, and very low on power... I switched out the maf and coil pack for known good ones, to no avail. The check engine light isn't illuminated when the car is running. It still runs and drives, but poorly.

Any ideas? I was thinking the timing belt could have skipped. I'll check the plugs tomorrow, but in the meantime if anyone has any input, it would be greatly appreciated as I'll probably lose my job on monday if I don't get it fixed!! Whine whine, i know, but its true. TIA

-Matt
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Old 01-29-2006, 10:31 AM   #2
Subie Gal
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crank sensor......
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:40 PM   #3
Impretzle
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Subie Gal, thanks for the tip. I tried the crank sensor first since I had an extra one, but it didnt do anything... Oh well, it's shinier than the old one now

After that I read the codes in the ECU, and it was throwing a throttle sensor code, even though the check engine light was not on. Replaced throttle sensor (Had one lying around from a spare engine) and then did the procedure to line it up and check voltage.. It stopped the problem, and now the car does not buck as much at low speeds and when lifting off the throttle. I'm hoping it might improve gas mileage to, since it seems to be a pretty important part.
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:56 PM   #4
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check your plugs and wires... also see if any of the plugs are wet...
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Old 01-29-2006, 09:46 PM   #5
Subie Gal
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hmmmmmmmmm
throttle sensor code?

bad idle air control valve maybe?
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Old 01-29-2006, 11:27 PM   #6
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So replacing the throttle position sensor totaly fixed it or just partially?

I'm really curious since my car is identical and the symptoms are pretty nearly too.

Runs fine cold, but as the car warms up it quickly starts misfiring like crazy when you try to accel at all. Above 3k some of the misfiring goes away, but not really.

The MAF, coil, and coolant temp sensor were at the top of my list, but i guess not anymore.

Sounds like a code reader and plenty of spare parts make troubleshooting relatively simple. Lucky

Last edited by vica153; 01-29-2006 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 01-30-2006, 12:13 AM   #7
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Keep us posted....
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Old 01-30-2006, 04:31 AM   #8
Impretzle
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Hey.. For checking the codes, I didn't have a code reader... Since 95 and older are before OBD was standardized (code readers are specific to each make and model), and I had the same connectors described here, i tried this procedure... http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html I could be wrong, but the codes appear to be the same.



Subie Gal: about the idle air control... my car does take forever to come back to idle from revs. Like if I'm at 4000 rpm in 2nd gear, and put the clutch in, it takes it sweet ass time coming back to idle. Think changing it out might solve that?

Sephro: the plugs looked ok, but one of them did have a little bit of water on it. It was water though, not coolant, so if anything, I'm guessing it snuck in there past the spark plug boot.

vica153, if you have a multimeter, the TPS can be checked... I used the procedure from the link above as a guide, but the pins are different. For the legacy there are 4 pins, and only 3 on our cars. The middle pin on the TPS was reporting similar voltages, so I just used that. After lining it up, I was getting .7 volts at closed throttle, and 4.5 at WOT (wide open throttle). It was running way better at this point, so I left it alone. At first I thought i was 100% cured, but it's stumbling slightly when taking off from a stop, so I'll continue to toy with it until I'm satisfied.
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Old 01-30-2006, 12:02 PM   #9
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Darn, Let me know when you get it totally fixed, I need to get mine running well for ice racing the first week in March.

Ken
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:37 PM   #10
Impretzle
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So I swapped my plugs and wires... Changed from bosch platinum (single tip style) to NGK's. I think they were BKR6E-11 NGK's. And also changed to some NGK wires I had lying around. I think the wires are what fixed the problem, but I won't ever be putting bosch plugs in the subaru again.. It's running much better now.

By the way, the dealer wanted I think 41 bucks for wires, which is pretty reasonable, but they wanted almost 4 bucks per plug, so I just got them at kragen for 1.99 a piece. I think the only difference is the ones from the dealer come in a box that says Subaru. Also, they didn't come gapped, so I set them to the recommended .44 in.

Hope this helps somebody.

Vica153: Perhaps the FSM has a list of the coolant temp sensor's specs.. Like what resistance it will put out when the car is at operating temp. Have you checked the basic stuff like how the plugs look, checked for vacuum leaks, bad grounds, working o2 sensor etc?

Last edited by Impretzle; 01-30-2006 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 01-31-2006, 03:37 PM   #11
vica153
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Let me know if the problem comes back, I replaced the plugs and I thought it was fixed.

Since you did the plugs and the wires at the same time its hard to say it was the wires and not the plugs, although i hope it is the wires.
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Old 01-31-2006, 03:38 PM   #12
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...........
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Old 01-31-2006, 04:09 PM   #13
Impretzle
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Hey.. i did the same thing... replaced the plugs, thought it was fixed, then switched to the other set of wires. It hasn't hesitated off the line since. If yours are questionable, it's worth a shot. If you know anyone with a subaru just borrow their wires to see if it takes care of the problem
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Old 01-31-2006, 04:29 PM   #14
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buddy of mine had this problem (car would bog so bad at start off you literally smashed your face of the dash. Cause: Bad throttle position sensor.
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Old 01-31-2006, 06:45 PM   #15
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^^^ I had the same problem with my 1.8->2.2 swap, in the early stages and the TPS was the problem... but now im having the exact same prob when warm as vica153 explained.

Im thinkin why would the TPS have problems after its warmed up? Ive had this problem for a few weeks now, im thinking its a dirty injector problem. if the injector is dirty, it will not correctly spray fuel into the cylinder causing it to not burn correctly showing a lean mixture to the O2 sensor, which then would throw a CEL (which i also have every so often) and then the ECU would make the injector run longer trying to fix the 'lean' problem causing it to be rich.

Just my thoughts, haven't had the chance to get injector cleaner yet.
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