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Old 01-30-2006, 04:59 PM   #1
gotime242
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Join Date: May 2005
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1988 Subaru RX

Default Help! Problem with Main Crank/Pully!!!

Hello all,

My friend has a mid to late 90's 2dr n/a impreza. He told me he has started to hear a bumping/clunking/loose sort of thing, so i checked it out for him. With the engine running, i look in to see that the main crack pully is wobbling like crazy. Surely that has something to do with what hes been hearing.

Today, i get a call from him and he says he was driving then he lost power steering and the batt light came on so he pulled over and found that the alt belt had come OFF the main crank pully! And this is just after i tightened them both. The a/c belt was still off...but i could see it making its way to the edge.

So i re-installed both belt, made sure they were good and tight (again) and checked the main crank pully bolt to find IT was a little loose. So i tightened that as much as possible.

But i have a couple questions:

It has an automatic tranny, with a manual tranny i think i remember i could stop the flywheel so i could tighten that main crank pully bolt up or leave it in gear. Should i just put it in drive to tighten it up this time or are there any other tips?

Also: Why would the main pully be wobbling this much? What would cause that? What can i do about it? Does it mean something serious is wrong? And how on earth could it wobble enough to throw the belts off....thats crazy.

Thank you very much for you help!
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Old 01-30-2006, 05:36 PM   #2
solbey11
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Your best bet would be to take the crank pulley off to see why it's wobbling. The hole in the pulley could just be stripped out and oblong. The woodruff key on the crank could be shot as well. Worst case scenerio, the crank could be shot. I'm hoping it isn't this. But just don't keep tightening it. Try to find out exactly what is wrong with it.

Oh, and it could also be the rubber damper on the crank pulley that's torn causing the belt ring to shift on it. When you wiggle the pulley, is the entire thing moving, or just the outer band?
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Old 01-30-2006, 07:19 PM   #3
ATX25RS
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when we changed out the pulley in my auto 01rs, we manually stopped the flywheel by jamming a screwdriver wrapped in a cloth in it. there are small slits where the wheel is visible.
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:54 PM   #4
Impretzle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATX25RS
when we changed out the pulley in my auto 01rs, we manually stopped the flywheel by jamming a screwdriver wrapped in a cloth in it. there are small slits where the wheel is visible.
I didn't see this on my car... I might have just missed it, but if there are no such holes on the older cars, you could just take the starter out. It's 2 bolts.

Also, sorry to give you bad news, but there is a possibility that the engine is screwed, or will blow up in a couple months. The crank pulley was loose on my car for a while, and it ended up with a huge knock. The car had 120k on it at the time and had been babied by the original owner, so I think the pulley being loose allowed the crank to walk or something? Anyway when you put it back on, youll probably need a woodruf key and a new pulley if the old one doesn't fit snugly. I think it's supposed to be torqued to 110 lb ft, and have loctite put on it. BTW, the crank pulley coming loose / falling off is a pretty common problem.

Good luck.
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Old 01-31-2006, 12:32 AM   #5
solbey11
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Proper torque specs for the crankshaft bolt is 130.2 ft/lbs +/-3.6ft/lbs or 126.6-133.8 ft/lbs. No loctite is recommended by Subaru. If you do decide to use it, just put it on a small section of the threads. Not the entire length. If you do that, you will probably never get that long bolt out.
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Old 01-31-2006, 02:22 AM   #6
birukun
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Here is my little write-up for my 2.2 Legacy with an automatic. If you have the 4EAT transmission, should be the same. That bolt has got to be cranked down! My post shares my experience with <130 pounds o torque on there.....

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...9&postcount=40

Bill in SD
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