Instruction: VF34 on 2.0L WRX

[txl146]

Click here for injector install

Finally completed VF34 install on my 02 WRX. It took me total 7 hours to complete turbo and injectors because of some of the minor problems I encountered along the install.

1. Stud came off of uppipe flange which took me 2 hours to fix it.
2. I completely forgot to remove blue and green connectors after reflashing the ECU. Took me an hour to figure this out.

Tools you need:

10, 12, 14, 17mm sockets and extension
1/4", 3/8", 1/2" ratchet
Air tool, impact gun or breaker bar
PB BLASTER
Rubber caps to seal coolant hoses
Nitrile goves if available
pliers


Here are some instructions that you may find useful. Sorry about some of poor quality pictures. I didn't realize that until it was too late.

Please see my injector install thread for a method on removing intercooler and airbox.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...=964852&page=2

There are five 14mm bolts you have to remove as shown here (spray generously with PB blaster a few hours before the install). These bolts hold downpipe and turbo together. Two 14mm bolts are hidden below the downpipe.


Downpipe unbolted from turbo:


Remove intercooler bracket as shown here. Two 12mm bolts.


Unbolt this 10mm clamp on turbo inlet.


Remove T-hose as circled in RED (sorry.. no close up picture)


Turbo install was done without using a jackstand. You can do it by simply unmounting exhaust hanger to allow TBE to move backward.


Remove 14mm oil inlet bolt on top of turbo and bend hard oil line away from the turbo. Be careful not to snap the line.


Another picture of bent hard oil line:


Remove 3 14mm bolts that hold turbo on uppipe flange. Shown below is the one located closet to downpipe. One on left needs to be removed.

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[txl146]

Picture below shows the followings:

1. Remaining two bolts that must be removed.
2. Coolant pipe on turbo (disconnected coolant return hose - not shown. Be sure to cap this hose to minimize coolant loss).



Once you have disconnected the coolant return hose, you should be able to lift the turbo and disconnect it from uppipe flange.

Before you do this step, make sure coolant hose to turbo is also disconnected (circled in RED below). You may lose some coolant so be sure to seal it up.



Black hose shown in the center is oil outlet hose, which connects to the oil outlet hard pipe on the turbo (notice squeeze clip on the hose)

[KJR]

looks like you lost a bit of coolant; gotta cap that thing fast!

[txl146]

Now, it's time to put a new turbo back on. Most important thing is to put your hand as shown below and hold turbo return hose (shown above) with your left hand. While you are holding it with your left hand, using your right hand, gently sit the oil return hard pipe and push it down. Once it's completely down, use a squeeze clip to secure it. This may be the hardest part during the turbo install. Since my hand is relatively small, I didn't have much trouble. At the same time, turbo inlet hose should be connected to the turbo inlet.

[txl146]

Use 3 14mm bolts to secure turbo. One closest to the downpipe (shown below) should be put on right after you put the gasket on or it will block the gasket.



Put a gasket on.


By gently bending the oil hard line, align it and use 14mm bolt to connect to turbo (circled in RED). Be sure to use a washer while putting it back on.



Reconnect the coolant return hose as shown here. Circled in red.

[txl146]

Use 5 14mm bolts to bolt down pipe to turbo. Also, connect coolant hose to the turbo.

[txl146]

Tighten 10mm bolt on turbo inlet clamp

[txl146]

Put T-hose back on the turbo as circled in RED.


Next step is to Prime the turbo. What I have done is to pull the ignition fuse (#11) from the fuse box under the steering wheel column. Crank the engine for a few times or so to make sure oil has reached the turbo.

As a final step, it's up to you on how to reflash the ECU using your own EM. Also, make sure to check for any leak around downpipe and turbo areas. It's good to check after a day of install to see if there are any oil leaks in the turbo areas as you don't want to have oil starvation problem. Check engine oil level daily for a few days while car is not running on a flat surface.

Most important step is to refill lost coolant. Easiest method is to turn on the engine after you are done priming the turbo and adding coolant through a tiny coolant reservoir (reservior with 'blitz' written on the cap). You can see bubbles coming out as you add coolant and coolant level dropping. Keep adding coolant until level doesn't drop anymore.

[txl146]

It's a night and day difference between stage 2 and VF34. It reminded me of getting a ride in a modded RX7 last year.

Enjoy your new turbo and be safe.

[txl146]

I think I need to get an upgraded turbo inlet hose. When I drove around I could hear this air sucking noise (barely noticeable), which appears to be coming from turbo - turbo inlet hose. When I put in the VF34, I noticed that turbo inlet hose where clamp sits was worn out.

I think stock hose may be worn out or maybe I am mistaken for a noise coming from resonator removal mod since VF34 turbo is sucking more air in. I was planning on getting a turbo inlet hose anyway. It gives me another reason to write up a procedure for turbo inlet hose.

[comradeboris]

wow. great work and keep these guides coming. the more how-tos that i see like this makes me want to go out and finally get some upgrades done

[humara]

awesome write-up.
now i really know what i'm about to get myself into.

[txl146]

Originally Posted by humara

awesome write-up.
now i really know what i'm about to get myself into.

Thanks... just don't drive too fast with it.

[Koji]

The inlet hose going is exactly why I've waited for a bit to do my install. Got a Perrin on the way this week.

Great write up. The mods should add this and your injector thread to the FAQ/Threads of note stickies.

[Chad W]

Awesome thread!

[djplayboy]

i am deff using this thread soon when i do my swap

[txl146]

One key advice for everyone is that almost everyone will have difficult time putting turbo outlet hard hose back on the oil return hose. As I have shown above, make sure you put your arm DEEP into where return hose is and you must be able to get a good grab of it. Otherwise it will be nearly impossible to put the hose back on. If you have problem with it, have someone with relatively small hand to do it for you.

If your car is old and you decide to use air tools, be sure not to use too much torque in freeing up uppipe/turbo and downpipe/turbo bolts. Too much force will result studs to come off free. I had this problem on two studs.

[cronic]

Originally Posted by txl146

One key advice for everyone is that almost everyone will have difficult time putting turbo outlet hard hose back on the oil return hose. As I have shown above, make sure you put your arm DEEP into where return hose is and you must be able to get a good grab of it. Otherwise it will be nearly impossible to put the hose back on. If you have problem with it, have someone with relatively small hand to do it for you.

If your car is old and you decide to use air tools, be sure not to use too much torque in freeing up uppipe/turbo and downpipe/turbo bolts. Too much force will result studs to come off free. I had this problem on two studs.

FWIW when i do it, i usually put the oil return hose on the hardline connected to the turbo with the clamps positioned how i want them, then when you set the turbo down, and line up the hose, its own weight pops it on the hardline on the block..

[txl146]

Cronic, that's a good point. It will work well for those with big hands. Trick will be aligning the hose on the hardline on the block. Either methods will work well. I opted for grabbing the hose with my left hand since it works very well.

After a week of driving, my car is running very well. I am getting a Protune in two weeks so I'll keep everyone posted of difference between OTS Cobb stage 2.5 and Protune map.

[The Deliverator]

Suggestion for those who want to avoid trouble with the oil return line: go to your local parts store and get a foot of the same size tubing.

Cut off a section that's maybe 1.5-2" longer than the stock return hose. Stick that puppy on in place of the stock piece, it'll go farther up the hard line on the turbo and farther down the hard line on the block.

I couldn't get the stock piece back on right for the life of me. Longer hose was so simple and effective that I wish someone had told me to do it to begin with. So I'm telling you guys.

[txl146]

Originally Posted by The Deliverator

Suggestion for those who want to avoid trouble with the oil return line: go to your local parts store and get a foot of the same size tubing.

Cut off a section that's maybe 1.5-2" longer than the stock return hose. Stick that puppy on in place of the stock piece, it'll go farther up the hard line on the turbo and farther down the hard line on the block.

I couldn't get the stock piece back on right for the life of me. Longer hose was so simple and effective that I wish someone had told me to do it to begin with. So I'm telling you guys.

Having a small hand really helps

[txl146]

Originally Posted by comradeboris

wow. great work and keep these guides coming. the more how-tos that i see like this makes me want to go out and finally get some upgrades done

Perrin turbo inlet hose is next. I am going to get it installed this week prior to Protune on Friday at XX Tuning, CT.

[txl146]

People have been PM'ing me about differences between stage 2 and stage 4 set up in terms of power delivery and drivability. If I were to summarize in a brief sentence, I would say that stage 2 is definitely more powerful below 3000-3100rpm range, especially if you have an aftermarket header on your stage 4 WRX (like mine). However, once VF34 turbo kicks in around 3500-3700rpm, that's where car pulls like a freight train and keeps pulling well above 100mph unlike TD04 that dies around after 80mph...

[phantasm]

The hardest issue I had with the stage 2 to 2.5 /4 upgrade was with the fuel injector removal / install. This was the one bit I wish there were better how-to's for -- at least at the time I did the install. Not sure what's out there now.

[markuswelby]

Originally Posted by txl146

People have been PM'ing me about differences between stage 2 and stage 4 set up in terms of power delivery and drivability. If I were to summarize in a brief sentence, I would say that stage 2 is definitely more powerful below 3000-3100rpm range, especially if you have an aftermarket header on your stage 4 WRX (like mine). However, once VF34 turbo kicks in around 3500-3700rpm, that's where car pulls like a freight train and keeps pulling well above 100mph unlike TD04 that dies around after 80mph...

I agree, the pull of the VF39 (for me) is well worth the torque lost on the bottom end. But truthfully, how many times are u are WOT at 1500 rpms???