My Current Build-might as well join the rest of the guys with their own threads:)

[White 2.5rs]

Check out my site at http://www.white25rs.com for more up to date information.

Previous Build-

• Stock EJ257
• SOHC Heads
• TWE valve springs/retainers/stage II cams
• Link Plus ECU
• Zeitronix Wideband with LCD Screen
• Aeromotive FPR 1:1
• Custom FMIC with stainless piping
• Forced Performance 20G TD-06H
• WRX Headers (spacer needed in crossover pipe)
• Custom Up-pipe <modified GPMoto (changed angles after flex section, rotated flange slightly)>
• Invidia Turboback
• Walbro pump
• RC650 cc Injectors
• WRX Cross-member
• Spec Stage 3 clutch (4 puck)

This setup was tuned by PDXTuning, one year ago this week, and yielded 319whp on pump 92, and 342 on 110.





Jeff S. said the 110 tune should most likely work well on 104, meaning either : 1- more power could have been pulled out of the fuel but wasn't out of concern for my transmission or 2- the turbo was maxed out and less octane wouldn't have mattered.

I took it to the strip, and pulled a whopping 14.7 @ 108.56. I blame myself 90% and the Link Plus 10%. My 60' was 2.8. My trap speed should have been higher despite the crappy time. The car was boosting 2-3 psi less than it should have been. I think altitude and weather made the difference. I could feel the drop in speed, so I checked the datalog, looked on my conversion mpa to psi, and noticed the boost drop. I never fixed it before I was done racing, as I got I think 4 runs in that night.

Since then I have practiced my launching and yeah...now I have a really good routine down and it launched like no other. But 342 wasn't enough for me...


Current Build-

• TurboSmart Eboost2
• Crawford Blueprinted&Balanced block with fresh bearings
• TWE Pistons with HD wrist pins
• TWE Port and Polish/valve springs/retainers/stage II cams (Still SOHC)
• Scat Rods
• Cometic Gaskets
• ARP Studs
• Reverse Manifold
• WRX Headers (spacer needed in crossover pipe)
• Custom Up-pipe for Garrett flange
• Modified Invidia Downpipe for Garrett flange
• Invidia Cat-back
• Aeromotive FPR
• GT3582R
• Bigger FMIC with all 2.5" stainless piping
• Delphi 95 lb/hr injectors
• Hydra with broken Wideband option
• PPG 1-4 straight-cut synchro'd transmission, Cusco Tarmac center differential in a WRX case
• Cusco Front and Rear 1.5 LSDs
  
• Cusco Twin-Plate Clutch
  
• Buschur modified Walbro
• Hydramist Water Injection........
  
  
  

Notes & Advice

• When your friends start turboing their cars and you have to hear the exact same stories of stuff breaking dont get as mad about it as you did the first time .

• Don't rip your car apart, until you have at least 50% of the funds necessary...I pulled my car apart in late april '05...It's now mid April '06 and it still isn't running. Granted the money saved from reducing insurance to fire and theft and having it marked as "in the shop" with the insurance company is nice.

• Make friends with people at the following stores (and I'm not just saying that, go in and bull**** with them, try to deal with the same guy everytime. Odds are, you'll end up needing a favor down the road, and the guy or girl might just be able to help you out.)
  
  
  • Radiator shops
  • Brake shops
  • Fitting stores
  • Hardware stores, especially the mom&pop stores if you have access to those
  • Non-ricer "tuner" shops, try to find someone who actually knows what he is doing
  • Nasioc members, meet with some of them. I've met and hung out with 2 so far, I'll probably end up hanging out with 2 more before the years over. They make great encyclopedias...just don't bug them too much I'm still learning when enough is enough.
    
    
    

• Read, read, read...!!!!! I have hundreds of hours of reading on; Nasioc, I-club, RS25, ClubWRX, Ravensblade, etc. It all pays off.
  

• Spec clutches rock! I love the pedal feel, the grip, and the fact it never slipped on me. I don't understand why a lot of people have had problems with them. I blame improper installation. Double check to make sure you got the right parts. When I received mine, it had the wrong clutch alignment tool, I think it was for a Nissan. I had to modify it, luckly I had some really precise calipers, a lathe, and a mill that was used to find the exact center and bore out the tool, but enough with that story.

1. Link Plus...what to say. I didn't like it too much. A lot of people think it is a very good tuning tool/em...I disagree...WAY too often did I have random stalling, idle dropping to 200 rpm then coming back, AFRs were never consistant. The upside to it is, it does support triggers, and it is cheap...other than that, I think the Hydra is the EM for me...but we shall see

4/15- I started actually cutting, as opposed to mocking the pipes up with duct-tape yesterday. It is a lot harder than I thought to get a good flat cut, I am getting better though, I just need to not be so afraid of the cutting blade exploding...which can happen though I guess so I don't really know what to think... The cuts don't look bad after I sanded them, but I have to say it is a lot of fun to cut them and just look at your work, than to have someone else do it...despite it taking 10x longer

4/18- I ordered a new black loom kit...much to the delight of fellow NASIOC'ers. Black it was, and black it shall be again.

Time to go back to Ellensburg, later.

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[Drac9]

Do yourself a favor and buy a decent chop saw. It will make your life 100x easier.

[PHATsuby]

are you cutting Aluminum or SS? If you are cutting Aluminum get a bandsaw, you will save yourself a TON of clean up on the cut afterwards.

Ben

[White 2.5rs]

Stainless-I have that same die grinder you do Ben, with a ...5" ? stainless cutting disc

also i have a flap sander attachment
and a grinding wheel

[PHATsuby]

4.5", if you are doing SS then do what Drac said and get a chop saw for like 100 bucks, it will make your life much easier, you can do straight cuts and it will save you on cleaning up a lot of burrs. Do you have a bench grinder? If not you will want one with a SS wire wheel also, that is if you are doing all the prep work. the grinder will be about 30 and the wire wheel is prob 10.

Ben

[White 2.5rs]

It'd be nice to have an extra 250-350 laying around for those tools, but no can do.
I have access to a grinder/chop saw/belt sander/band saw <horiz, so it kinda sucks> at my dads shop, where I normally work on the car. I just got the boot out of there a while back because they need the space my car normally takes up.

[Sko]

What is the thickness of your headgaskets?

I'm doing a similar setup w/ an RS block (open deck vs semi-closed) Forged wiseco's, eagle rods, balanced crank, new main bearings, the SOHC heads with upgraded valvetrain (minus the valves themselves) ala TWE, and cobb 'spicy' cams (they say NA only, but after talking with a cobb tech he said many people run them on Forced Induction apps with good results).

Anyways, I plan on using STi headgaskets vs RS ones, the RS ones are about 2.5 times thicker than STi headgaskets, how thick are the cometics your using?

Thanks,

Nick

[White 2.5rs]

I really don't remember...TWE told me to go w/ what they recommended, and I did...I never saw the specs... .060 rings a bell? but I don't know if that has to do with something else

[Sko]

That sounds about right... RS is like .051 or .056 forgot which, but I know STi is .021.

I don't think it makes a huge differance either way since your headgaskets are aftermarket high performace ones, but as far as the ones from the dealership I figured the STi had to be better because they are made of differant materials, and thinner for less possible moving around.

ARP Head studs are SPENDY though!! 230 bucks for some bolts!? You know factory STi blocks hold together fine with factory studs! And if the block goes, its probably not because of the studs,

Nick

[White 2.5rs]

I just followed a lot of what TWE told me. I trust them, I've spent 4-5gs with them, and they told me they use ARPs on all of their high HP setups...same with a lot of tuners...I figure if I have that much $ in head gaskets, spending a little more in bolts to make sure nothing happens is justified.

[ChicksDigWagons]

Harbor Freight $50 chop saw is THE best $50 I've ever spent in my entire life.

Buy one. People give HF a bad wrap, but at $50 you can not go wrong with this one.

I haven't broke mine yet and I ABUSE it. Cutting 1/4" plate with bungies to keep it cutting unattended

[White 2.5rs]

I guess I'll pick it up

Thanks CDW

[turboed22]

Originally Posted by White 2.5rs

I guess I'll pick it up

Thanks CDW

How much are you looking at for a usdm six speed? I know you need a lot of stuff and I was wondering how much a whole swap would be.
Your set-up looks sweet btw

[White 2.5rs]

I was planning on spending 3500 on the transmission/diff **** <still need to know what I need > and around 1400 on a clutch <Tilton ceremetallic>

[Jaxx]

why use a RRFPR ? .. just seems that it would make it more difficult to tune

[White 2.5rs]

well its a FPR with 1:1 raising on it, i dont know if thats the proper term, maybe i should change it to say fpr instead of rrfpr

[White 2.5rs]

4/20- I ordered the Harbor Freight chop saw.
My cheapness set in and I googled "Harbor Freight Coupon" and came across a coupon for not only 5 bucks off, but a free 12 piece file/rasp set...couldn't pass that up

[White 2.5rs]

4/21- I made an apointment with a welder that has done some work for me in the past. Monday I take the car in for custom end tanks, weld my turbo bracket I made, hopefully weld the uppipe in place, and mount the intercooler. If this guy is as cool as he the last couple times I've gone to him, I don't think I'll pay more than 200 bucks.

Heres a pic of my oil feed line. One fitting will be removed, and it will be tightened down so it will be a little shorter. I know it looks somewhat ghetto, but that whole thing, with the extra T for checking my oil pressure, and the oil filter from FP, was only like 105, as opposed to the standard 75 dollar line.

[White 2.5rs]

Hmm...I basically got fired today for being too stupid...so this job is going to take a ****ing lot longer...

[White 2.5rs]

I found some fuel injectors (96 lb/~1000CC) from PSI187, who after paypal finishes sending me my money!, I'm going to pay and have them sent to RC for flow testing. I also got my chop saw (a beast, thanks guys) and cleaned up the garage a little.

I'm also done organizing and stripping the wires to put back onto the original ECU connector clips for the hydra once I get some money/a job.

That is all

[ChicksDigWagons]

Originally Posted by White 2.5rs

I know it looks somewhat ghetto, but that whole thing, with the extra T for checking my oil pressure, and the oil filter from FP, was only like 105, as opposed to the standard 75 dollar line.

Is that all? My last oil feed line cost $20 off the shelf. Granted no filter, but I have a hard time justifying that personally.

[White 2.5rs]

the GT35R uses a different setup than the standard banjo bolt

consider this feed line to be about 25 bucks off the shelf because that filter was around 75

Alex

[2milehi]

Originally Posted by PHATsuby

are you cutting Aluminum or SS? If you are cutting Aluminum get a bandsaw, you will save yourself a TON of clean up on the cut afterwards.

Ben

I have had great results using a wood blade in the chop saw to cut aluminum. The steel cutting the Al is harder so the blade won't wear out and the high speed of the blade shoots the Al out so it does not accumulate on the cutting surface.

My 2¢

[Jaxx]

after reading your "Current Build" why do a aem WB vs a hydra WB? auto tune is nice

[White 2.5rs]

I like having a gauge displayed constantly so I know if something is up.

I think the auto tune is like 400 dollars on top of the 300 dollars for the wideband, isnt it?